dave1949
Super Star Member
Did I mention I had to carry that bucket of dirt to the compost pile a whole 50-60 feet? Walked back too.
Chains - Quick Question
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Did I mention I had to carry that bucket of dirt to the compost pile a whole 50-60 feet? Walked back too.
George2615
Super Member
Why didn't you put the bucket of dirt in the tractor bucket and drive it the 50-60 feet instead of walking. Betcha didn't think of that.....
dave1949
Super Star Member
I did think about it. Climbing on the tractor, waiting for the glow plugs, who's got time for that?
George2615
Super Member
I did think about it. Climbing on the tractor, waiting for the glow plugs, who's got time for that?
I thought that is why we buy tractors, to do less physical work like walking and lifting. I didn't realize that climbing on the tractor and waiting 10 seconds for the glow plugs is that much of a time waster.
Glad you have a sense of humor and I think I've hijacked this long enough.
arrow
Super Member
Dave is like a NFL lineman. The game may last a couple of hours but actual "work time" or where he is actually playing, is 7 minutes. Measuring it this way, he probably gets his chains on faster than we do.
dstig1
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Set those rear tires out farther. You are going to destroy the sheet metal in the fender areas with those chains with them set close (like it appears to be). Chains always flop around some, no matter how tight you get them. Look in the user manual. The center disc of the wheels can be flipped around relative to the wheel rim to set different center to center distances. If the rears are filled it will be a fun exercise. Get help for that.
dstig1
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heh heh. Umm well.... no.... You have to flip the tires and the center discs to get the best extension (tires need to flip sides to maintain correct tread orientation). Here was how I ended up doing it the second time. The first time was...more interesting.... I caught a lot of crap for this as apparently many manly men on here can lift 1000lb tires like Bluto can hoist Olive Oyl, but I sure cannot. The point being, you need to be prepared to lower/lift, move and control heavy round objects. An impact wrench helps for removal, but they tighten up better with a breaker bar or torque wrench.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/278997-how-lift-filled-rear-tires.html?highlight=
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/278997-how-lift-filled-rear-tires.html?highlight=
dstig1
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Pull the first tire and it will all make sense. Or maybe just think it through with the manual as your guide. I had to flip the discs and the sides to get max extension and the treads going in the right direction. Take a pic of the tread direction before you unmount anything, so you know. There is a middle position, but I could not make sense of it, so I ended up with 2 options - in or out. They start all the way in. Besides, if you are moving them out, the farther out, the more you gain for chain clearances and stability, so why not go all the way?
BTW I have Duos for chains, and they shake the living crap out of me. I am considering moving to ladder chains down the road. They aren't too bad on snow, but when you clear the first pass, they start beating you up bigtime.
BTW I have Duos for chains, and they shake the living crap out of me. I am considering moving to ladder chains down the road. They aren't too bad on snow, but when you clear the first pass, they start beating you up bigtime.
My discs are out. The only change is side to side. The welded bosses aren't in the center. It all makes sense, as does the tread. I replied quicker than I thought.
I don't have much time in them, but my chains are super rough. The vbar is just very tall. I can't win a speed race, but I'll win a tow-off.....
I don't have much time in them, but my chains are super rough. The vbar is just very tall. I can't win a speed race, but I'll win a tow-off.....
dstig1
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From my recollection, a straight side to side swap of the wheels with discs in place would point the tread the wrong way. Perhaps i am misunderstanding your intentions...
Don H
Bronze Member
Wheel centers are offset in the rims. They started in the narrow position (centers offset to the outside), swapping sides put the centers in the wide position (centers closer to the axle side) which puts the rim further away from the tractor and keeps the tires oriented properly.
check
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Yes, VERY rough. Here are mine.
Attachments
vtsnowedin
Elite Member
Well you could do that but of course you wouldn't. You just roll them back far enough to clear the tractor then ahead again on the other side keeping the tread pointed the right way. Say the tractor was pointed north and the left rear was dished in towards the rear end or east. Move it over onto the other side and the dish still points east but now away from the tractors rear end.
aeblanks picture posted back a page looks to me as if it is already dished out but I can't see if there is one more position out he can take by separating the rims from the dishes and mounting the tabs on the inner side of the rim mounts.
