Traction Chains up front

[RoyJackson]

I'm just wondering on this front chain thing, with chains on all four wheels has anybody actually damaged their front axle or prematurely worn out any parts on it?

I know Deere engineers do not recommend chains on front, but in 10 years of TBN, I cannot recall anyone actually posting about damaging the front axle that could actually be attributed to chains on the front axle.
This is probably a good question for your dealers. I'm sure most would respond "it's not recommended", but have they actually seen failures?

 

[KBL3830]

As I said earlier four winters plus mud season plowing and getting the firewood in (400 hrs +/-) with front chains no problems attributable to the chains. The firewood is on pallets of about 3/8 cord and are right at the hairy edge of lifting capacity, have to have either the snowblower or rear weights to do it. I did have to change the gears and bearings in the left front cuz I didn't notice that the housing was cracked and thus no fluid on that side it made some really bad noises just before it seized!! That was late summer so can't blame the chains plus the right side is still going strong. Have to say this us an L3830 not a B series but when I compare the amount of metal in Kubotas running gear as opposed to other "comparable" tractors I've been favorably impressed, just can't believe that they're all that delicate. I do use the steering brakes with the cruise control. I spent an entire day farting around to get used to it so I wouldn't knock anything over but now I've got it down pat. I use a six foot rear pto snowblower ( or thrower to the purists) to remove the bulk snow and the bucket for final scraping and pushing back piles, works great as long as the grounds frozen.

 

[David s Von Gieserbrechta]

I know Deere engineers do not recommend chains on front, but in 10 years of TBN, I cannot recall anyone actually posting about damaging the front axle that could actually be attributed to chains on the front axle.
This is probably a good question for your dealers. I'm sure most would respond "it's not recommended", but have they actually seen failures?

Personally I think that a lot of the "It's not recommended" has to do with cover the butt as there are a lot of people out there buying small tractors that have never been on a tractor before and like to show off and see just how ignorant they can be. Like making a sharp turn and slamming on the brakes will with the added traction of chains will trash any front end, but some people don't get this. So the manufacturers and dealers have to play safe.

I think that if these tractors are only meant to be used as toys then they should be labeled as such and sold by Mattel or Tonka. However as they are not they should be tough enough that when used intelligently and without undue abuse they should last. They are after all Tractors and not Ferrari's.

 

[NativeSon]

Get the chains.

Years ago when I use to play with Jeeps (have now grown into tractors) we use to put the front chains on first, then if needed we'd add the rear. Makes all the difference.

Have fun.

 

[nharley30]

Is it easy to install the chains outside in the snow and show I go for front and rear or just rear.
I have a new Kubota BX24 that just slid when I tried moving deep snow. I have a foot of snow with hard iced snow underneath, very slippery; plus, my driveway is on a grade.

 

[RoyJackson]

Is it easy to install the chains outside in the snow and show I go for front and rear or just rear.

It would be much easier to install the chains on cleared pavement or a garage floor. The chains need to be layed out flat to remove all the kinks and ensure they go on the tires relatively straight.
However, you've got to do what you've got to do... If that means installing them on a snowy surface, then that's what you have to do. I don't envy you on doing that though.

 

[lakeside]

I have rear chains on my B26 and none on the front. I checked TBN and the majority suggested not to put chains on the front. I have quite a steep hill to clear in heavy snow country and, with FWD engaged, I don't seem to need chains on the front.

I install my chains in the fall since it"s not fun trying to do it in the cold and snow. I lay the chains out on the ground to get them straight and right side up. I then drive forward over the chains until they about halfway under the rear wheels. I then jack up one rear wheel at a time and use the free turning tire to pull the chain up and over the top of the wheel. The chains for a B26 are very heavy, probably 100 lbs each yet they go on easily the way I do it.

 

[bstrom]

Well I got my front chains - 2-link ladders with v-bars. Put them on and went out to plow snow in the dark. I got to say it's a big improvement. Steering and traction with my loader mounted front plow is greatly improved. I was moving back big piles of snow also by pushing the tops back and working down. I had more traction doing that than with just the rear chains, it was easier to do. It's not like the front tires don't slip at all they just don't slip and spin all over the place like they did before. As things start to thaw out this spring I may go back to just the rears but for now this is a big improvement. I'm pretty easy on things so I think my front axle will be ok, time will tell I guess.

 

[Trafficman]

I ordered mine today. I've had them on the back & hadorderd them for the front but they were backordered. Never charged for, but never shipped either.
T-Man.

 

[Trafficman]

I ordered mine today. I've had them on the back & had ordered them for the front but they were backordered. Never charged for, but never shipped either.
T-Man.

Ordered 02/02/2011 from www.Tirechains.com , received 02/04/2011 standard shipping rate. Can't ask for much better CS than that.
T-Man.

 

[wpabx2230]

Let us know if you need to do any modifications to the chains. I'd like to order some. I only live 40 miles from their location, but I've been told you get better service if you order over the net.

 

[freddyr]

Well I got my front chains - 2-link ladders with v-bars. Put them on and went out to plow snow in the dark. I got to say it's a big improvement. Steering and traction with my loader mounted front plow is greatly improved. I was moving back big piles of snow also by pushing the tops back and working down. I had more traction doing that than with just the rear chains, it was easier to do. It's not like the front tires don't slip at all they just don't slip and spin all over the place like they did before. As things start to thaw out this spring I may go back to just the rears but for now this is a big improvement. I'm pretty easy on things so I think my front axle will be ok, time will tell I guess.

bx2660 with chains on the back and it goes anywhere, but if getting chains get the the 2 link for a smoother ride!

 

[Jeff Lary]

I own a L 2950 and i chain one of my front wheels every winter i only work it in the woods and its a big help when plowing my roads and steering as well as traction.
Now they tell me the shaft up front is small so i am very carefull not to "bind" that front wheel in a position that it can not spin if it needs to. I belive that is the secret to the whole possible problem .As long as you can slip that front wheel and not bind it you will not break anything.I bought my chain at V.I.P. its an auto parts store .They come in a set so you can use 1 or both of them it is up to you. I just told them i had to have a set of chains for a 24" wheel ? can't remember the size ,cost like 40 bucks.

 

[GotSnow]

I would 2nd the comments about chains on pavement: this is a bad idea. You will tear up the driveway in short order.

The solution is a blower.
I use to have trouble without chains and a blade, but now that I have a blower I never use chains. And my drive is 15 degrees and 1000 ft long and it takes about 20 min to cleanup without chains.

Also this is an above average snow area. My front yard currently is buried in ~4 ft of snow, and 2 to 3 ft is common.

 

[dennisgw]

Agree with GotSnow. 7 years with blower and I have no need for chains in Minnesota. If I begin to slip I put into 4WD. It's cold and 2-3 feet of snow.

 

[freddyr]

I have over a 1/4 mile road with a steep incline at shop. Started this winter with my bx2660 with fel and rear snowblower with rear chains and filled tires. Had no problems, no spinning or anything. The last 6" snow i did it without chains just to see what would happen and had no problems. Couldn"t tell any difference! Next year will do without chains, but if i need them, i can put them on real quick with the stuff i have. Would like a snow blade that clamps on fel next year for those pesky 1-3" snows! Would save alot of time:thumbsup:

 

[RoyJackson]

Would like a snow blade that clamps on fel next year for those pesky 1-3" snows! Would save alot of time:thumbsup:

You should check out those BXpanded blades then, Freddy. Pretty low cost, but no hydraulic swiveling of the blade. I'm considering the 72" unit myself.

BTW, we're neighbors (almost). I'm in Windsor.

 

[freddyr]

I was worried about how strong the plow was to hold up after hitting hidden things in the snow?. There is a company in New Holland pa that has them also. called Earth and Turf Attachments- more money but looks like more solid. Yep im close to Windsor- Surrounded by Kubotas! Brother has a bigger kubota and neighbor has a bx also. You can't believe how my neighbor abuses his!! but works great with no problems!:thumbsup:

 

[RoyJackson]

I was worried about how strong the plow was to hold up after hitting hidden things in the snow?. There is a company in New Holland pa that has them also. called Earth and Turf Attachments- more money but looks like more solid. Yep im close to Windsor- Surrounded by Kubotas! Brother has a bigger kubota and neighbor has a bx also. You can't believe how my neighbor abuses his!! but works great with no problems!:thumbsup:

I think if you don't go blasting down to the drive at full speed, damage isn't likely. Also, the BXpanded blades aren't (IMHO) for those with drives more then a few hundred feet and, as you wrote, 1-3 inch snows. With that snow depth, you should see most anything sticking up. I just don't want to spend a lot of money on a blade.

 

[freddyr]

I think if you don't go blasting down to the drive at full speed, damage isn't likely. Also, the BXpanded blades aren't (IMHO) for those with drives more then a few hundred feet and, as you wrote, 1-3 inch snows. With that snow depth, you should see most anything sticking up. I just don't want to spend a lot of money on a blade.

Ok u get it and ill come see your demo!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: