chainsaw chain

/ chainsaw chain #1  

kenmac

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I just got this new chain that I bought. I think xyz123 called them vanguard chain. Will this chain work better or worse if I cut these large rakers off ? I'll make sure I never buy this type chain again
 
/ chainsaw chain #2  
You really don't want to cut the rakers all of the way off. The chain will bog down into the wood too much. Bring them down evenly without burning them too much by getting them hot from grinding. Not too big a deal if you hand file just don't go bugger up your cutting tooth.
 
/ chainsaw chain
  • Thread Starter
#3  
You really don't want to cut the rakers all of the way off. The chain will bog down into the wood too much. Bring them down evenly without burning them too much by getting them hot from grinding. Not too big a deal if you hand file just don't go bugger up your cutting tooth.

Thanks,but have you ever seen the rakers on this type chain ? I mean it looks like another cutting tooth backwards .They are large.I have a die grinder I can use to grind it off or way down without getting the chain to hot
 
/ chainsaw chain #4  
I agree -- dont cut them off. I am willing to bet that if you trim them some a touch - it will make all the world of difference.
 
/ chainsaw chain #5  
The Vanguard chain is the safety version of the 3/8 pitch full chisel chain. The drags look like somebody took a depth gauge that was way too big, and just bent it over. It is designed as a low kickback chain. You can probably take them down a little to get the chain to bite better.
 
/ chainsaw chain #6  
I "lower" my rakers using one of these sharpeners. Pretty inexpensive too.
I lower them a little more than most people do. Depends on the power of the saw you have.
 

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/ chainsaw chain #7  
You really don't want to cut the rakers all of the way off. The chain will bog down into the wood too much. Bring them down evenly without burning them too much by getting them hot from grinding. Not too big a deal if you hand file just don't go bugger up your cutting tooth.

X2 The chain would definitely cut too deep...Not to mention she might bite you...Buy a full chisel chain if you want something more aggressive.
 
/ chainsaw chain #8  
Id probably just get another chain low kick back chains don't have the best cutters anyway. my .002
 
/ chainsaw chain #9  
I think the cutters are pretty much the same whether low kickback or not. It's them stupid bumpers in front of the cutters. If you want to take them down just go a little way down. You will get a lot more cut. Keep in mind each of the rakers are tilted one way and then the opposite on the next raker. If you truly want to get the best cut file or grind slowly the rakers going one direction. Then turn the chain around or your stance so that the depth below the cutting tooth is the same.
 
/ chainsaw chain
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks, I don't think I'll take them off while the chains are new,but as I use them and have to sharpen them ,I'll go to work on them.I don't think I'll have any issues with bogging the saw down If/when I grin them down.This saw seems to have plenty of power .Had I known b-4 I bought .I wouldn't have bought this type chain. It seems to me (as a novice cutter)There are just so many chains # out there to choose from ,it's hard for the novice to know what their buying.
 
/ chainsaw chain #11  
It seems to me (as a novice cutter)There are just so many chains # out there to choose from ,it's hard for the novice to know what their buying.

Hence the sub-forum on chains for the new guys etc. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/chain/

Guide Bar & Saw Chain info explained

Anatomy of chainsaw chain

Chain ID Chart

Identifying STIHL Saw Chain

How to identify Oregon chain

just to name a few threads :2cents:
 
/ chainsaw chain #13  
There's my buddy xyz123! Still enjoying my little Husky topping saw.

Liking the 338xpt I have left over too.

Making me think about selling my like new solo 637 40cc TH instead. Maybe 2hrs or so on it. Just homeowner trim duties once a year.
 
/ chainsaw chain #14  
The safety rakers only take effect as the chain rounds the tip, and will hamper plunge cutting performance. They should have absolutely no effect on cutting along the flat edge of the bar.

This is a very common misconception (we did ten rounds in another thread recently) but you can verify this simply by examining the chain closely. The depth rakers should be coming in contact with the wood before the safety rakers when the chain is on the long edge of the bar. The safety rakers only stick past the depth rakers as the chain goes around the tip.
 
/ chainsaw chain #15  
s219 you do know what Vanguard chain looks like right? The safety part in on the raker itself. Not separate like other chains.
 
/ chainsaw chain #16  
Yeah I still have my Solo 637 with maybe 5 tanks of fuel through it. Wasn't that impressed with it myself.
 
/ chainsaw chain
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#17  
/ chainsaw chain
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#18  
/ chainsaw chain #19  
s219 you do know what Vanguard chain looks like right? The safety part in on the raker itself. Not separate like other chains.

SHoot, I got that mixed up -- I was thinking about the R series Oregon, but Vanguard is D series. According to my Oregon pocket guide, that should be much closer to a non-safety chain than R series (which has separate safety rakers).
 
/ chainsaw chain
  • Thread Starter
#20  
anybody heard of forester brand chain ? Is it good chain ? I can buy 1 for my 24'' bar for $13.29 ea semi chisel
 

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