Chainsaw Recommendations

[happysawer]

Don't know if your into watching the online videos, but i have found one guy he's funny and long winded, but he sure has a lot of know how in using a chainsaws and staying safe using them, it's "Bucking Billy Ray" just do a Google search for him, trust me he is a stright talking man he is not a preacher in any way, but he has this way of telling you a lot sometimes he takes a long time getting to his points but trust me he is the real deal.

 

[Captain Dirty]

Your information is definitely appreciated. I wish I knew of a reputable dealer near me. They all seem to focus on one major brand or the other. Hence my joining here to get recommendations, suggestions and information from experienced users. I do like the idea of 2 bars. I really hadnt thought of that prior

There is an old adage with regards to local bicycle shops, but it applies to almost anything. "Before you shop for a widget, shop for a widget shop." The brands you are considering are reputable; Stihl and Husqvarna are the Ford and Chevy of chainsaws, how you evaluate the dealer may decide the brand. This forum frowns on religious discussions.

With a 5+ acre woodlot of aging trees (typically 3 blowdowns a year) my go-to saw is 50 cc with a 16" bar--light enough to limb, large enough to buck and fell. 18-24" diameter trees can be handled with that length bar. The original post indicated you would hire out the big stuff.

I do not saw all day, every day, but during the 2 - 4 hours of actual sawing involved in cleaning up a tree, I probably drive my saws harder than a professional owing to my lack of experience and finesse. I have rationalized "commercial" or "pro" grade saws. You (or your husband) may be happy with a "farm and ranch" grade machine. I was not. I think you are correct to reject "homeowner" machines.

One other point--with sporadic or infrequent use you may find it helpful to spend $20.00 per gallon for pre-mixed, non-ethanol fuel.

 

[happysawer]

I might add you need to think about doing your own chain sharping there is good file kits, and many onling videos showing how to use them my dealer has two really big glass inclosed chain sharping machines but it's $8 dollars a chain.
So it's a good idea to look into doing a little chain sharping yourself.

 

[happysawer]

There is an old adage with regards to local bicycle shops, but it applies to almost anything. "Before you shop for a widget, shop for a widget shop." The brands you are considering are reputable; Stihl and Husqvarna are the Ford and Chevy of chainsaws, how you evaluate the dealer may decide the brand. This forum frowns on religious discussions.

With a 5+ acre woodlot of aging trees (typically 3 blowdowns a year) my go-to saw is 50 cc with a 16" bar--light enough to limb, large enough to buck and fell. 18-24" diameter trees can be handled with that length bar. The original post indicated you would hire out the big stuff.

I do not saw all day, every day, but during the 2 - 4 hours of actual sawing involved in cleaning up a tree, I probably drive my saws harder than a professional owing to my lack of experience and finesse. I have rationalized "commercial" or "pro" grade saws. You (or your husband) may be happy with a "farm and ranch" grade machine. I was not. I think you are correct to reject "homeowner" machines.

One other point--with sporadic or infrequent use you may find it helpful to spend $20.00 per gallon for pre-mixed, non-ethanol fuel.

In regards to fuel only use real gas never ever use the alcohol blends that is what hurt my poor old PoulanPro, also the Echo 6550001 Red Armor 2-Cycle Engine Oil is the best adder for your chainsaws fuel.

 

[Jo D]

There is an old adage with regards to local bicycle shops, but it applies to almost anything. "Before you shop for a widget, shop for a widget shop." The brands you are considering are reputable; Stihl and Husqvarna are the Ford and Chevy of chainsaws, how you evaluate the dealer may decide the brand. This forum frowns on religious discussions.

With a 5+ acre woodlot of aging trees (typically 3 blowdowns a year) my go-to saw is 50 cc with a 16" bar--light enough to limb, large enough to buck and fell. 18-24" diameter trees can be handled with that length bar. The original post indicated you would hire out the big stuff.

I do not saw all day, every day, but during the 2 - 4 hours of actual sawing involved in cleaning up a tree, I probably drive my saws harder than a professional owing to my lack of experience and finesse. I have rationalized "commercial" or "pro" grade saws. You (or your husband) may be happy with a "farm and ranch" grade machine. I was not. I think you are correct to reject "homeowner" machines.

One other point--with sporadic or infrequent use you may find it helpful to spend $20.00 per gallon for pre-mixed, non-ethanol fuel.

Please dont take that the wrong way. It was meant more in not being able to get information and recommendations in one location. The "local " shop is where I was referred to go to if I go with Stihl by someone who uses them regularly for equipment repair. I dont question ability, but from my experience most places arent going to sell you on something they dont carry (regarding any type of purchase) so I dont think any of my local places will educate me on the differences in the brands, and what they offer etc. if its not a brand they carry

 

[AWSubie]

I have a Stihl MS180c with the easy start and I love it. I think the easy start makes the saw safer.

From the description of your needs I don’t believe you will need anything bigger than a 180 (16 “ bar). But that’s just another opinion.

I also have a harbor freight Lynxx electric saw and it greatly complements the Stihl. (Especially when I get the one or the other bound up in a limb!). The new electric saws are leaps and bounds above what was available only a few years ago.

Good luck with your search.

 

[Jo D]

I might add you need to think about doing your own chain sharping there is good file kits, and many onling videos showing how to use them my dealer has two really big glass inclosed chain sharping machines but it's $8 dollars a chain.
So it's a good idea to look into doing a little chain sharping yourself.

Yes, I was looking at the Stihl filing sets online yesterday, along with extra chain and oil

 

[Toyboy]

Your thoughts are spot on. Unfortunately from what have seen I dont have a whole lot of dealer support in the area. Locally (under 40 miles) I have Stihl sold by one local Saw and mower shop, he does repairs to the best of my knowledge, and then Tractor Supply. They dont sell Stihl but sell parts and are authorized repair. They push the Husqvarna as the major brand they sell. I can go about an hour away and have ACE hardware that sells Stihl and I believe repair. However to me none of these places makes me think great dealer support. You put in your thoughts of my choices, but Highlighted that they in order of my choices. Is there something you recommend that I havent looked into?

No, not really. It'll all come back to parts & service.
At the time I wrote that you'd not went into detail about your dealer options. As for electric saws.... good luck with that if you lose power to recharge.
Another fellow here mentioned about using E-free gas. Excellent suggestion. Where I live up north here, it's widely available because of the timber industry and also being a vacation destination. E-blended gas will destroy a small engine over time.
Another thought is you could talk with a tree service or two and see what they would recommend. Might be worth a call.

My main saws over the years have been Stihl and Husky. Both quality. I hear good things about Echo also, but my only experience with them is a brush cutter.
Go handle some of the saws that have been talked about here, and see how they feel weight wise and balance. That alone may narrow your choices.

 

[Egon]

Should mention another bar and chain come in real handy if your bar gets pinched. Just take the power head off and put on the spare bar and chain.

Some people use the better quality gas for mix. Others may add a little diesel conditioner. There is no one best oil. The refineries just use different containers.

My Husky 365 was Tuned up about twelve years ago, left with a full tank and not used till a week or two ago. Three pulls and no start! Found the switch was off! Two more pulls and it was running.

 

[happysawer]

In his videos Bucking Billy Ray discuss Bar Lengths say 16 inch , what he says is with short bars you spend a lot of time bending over and when you bend over your getting your face close the chain end of the bar, and the end is the danger point as for KIBKBACKs.
Also bending over is harder on ones back, if you watch his videos he is many times using a pretty long bar.
Myself the 18" bar is what has worked for me, but not against getting a 20" or 24", just check chain prices and give it some good thinking before buying a longer bar.

 

[kenmbz]

Second the safety equipment, bought chaps, helmet with ear and face protection before first use.
Never use a saw when tired or frustrated is just as important.
If I had the $ I would buy the Stihl, but I am out with the saw all the time and upped mine from an 18" to a 20" and was very happy. Most people seem more comfortable with 18" or less, since a bar/chain is much less $, then go with a 16 or 18 and see if that works well.
14" is too small for any sizable trees and over 20" brings a lot more risk.

Jonsered is different quality based on size, so that leaves the Stihl and husky from your list.
Go hold them and that can also show which one you will be more comfortable with, ignore salesman unless he is a mechanic/sawyer and can tell you something that is not just printed right on the box

The place I bought mine from, knew all the tweaks and was really helpful, I had already decided on brand/size.

 

[Snobdds]

Buy once, cry once. Get the stihl.

For a chainsaw, always get gas. If you have a hurricane and the power is off for a few days, it will be hard to charge a battery based saws.

 

[Egon]

In his videos Bucking Billy Ray discuss Bar Lengths say 16 inch , what he says is with short bars you spend a lot of time bending over and when you bend over your getting your face close the chain end of the bar, and the end is the danger point as for KIBKBACKs.
Also bending over is harder on ones back, if you watch his videos he is many times using a pretty long bar.
Myself the 18" bar is what has worked for me, but not against getting a 20" or 24", just check chain prices and give it some good thinking before buying a longer bar.

Bucking Billy may be taking through his hat.

 

[happysawer]

Bucking Billy may be taking through his hat.

I have to admit old Bucky is a quite a talker, but if you watch him handle his many saws there is no dought he does know a lot.

 

[Randy Gann]

Just my thoughts. A battery saw would be great to have handy for those quick yard jobs when you have a limited amount to cut. For the big jobs a pro quality gas saw if properly maintained will last decades. I had a Stihl 032AV that I ran for 30 years cutting firewood for my home near Greensboro. Stihl and Husqvarna pro grade saws are like Kubota and John Deere for tractors- - they own major share of the market. Don’t think anyone has mentioned, you could get a pro grade 50cc saw with both a 16” bar and 20” bar. You will find yourself using the 16” bar most of the time as it is lighter and easier to manage. In addition it will cut faster (faster chain speed). You have the 20” bar available if you have some really big stuff to cut.

 

[nytryder]

I have had an 026 Stihl for over 20 yrs. Used mostly for hurricane clean ups and small odd jobs from time to time. Friend of mine bought a Farm Boss and complained about the weight of the Farm Boss. He tried my saw and immediately wished he had purchased the smaller saw. My saw is used by tree climbers because of ease of handling and easy starts, hot or cold. Hope this helps!

 

[Frankenkubota]

I have 2. The smaller Echo 310 for 80% of what I do and the still 310 for the big stuff. The still is very heavy compared to the echo, and far more powerful!

If you are going to use it for long periods, if occasionally or every day, weight is a factor. IMHO

 

[happysawer]

I have 2. The smaller Echo 310 for 80% of what I do and the still 310 for the big stuff. The still is very heavy compared to the echo, and far more powerful!

If you are going to use it for long periods, if occasionally or every day, weight is a factor. IMHO

Being 82 i can sure agree that the weight of the chainsaw, is something you should give a lot of thinking about.

 

[PILOON]

OK, here is my 2 cents.
Buy a whatever brand (you did name the better ones) but buy from an authorized dealer and not a big box store.
Dealers carry professional tools* while the box stores only carry handyman W/E user models and they don't have service capabilities.

Authorized dealers have trained technicians and a full range of spare parts on hand.

It all boils down to professional service and customer care.

*much less plastic on pro models plus generally more maintenance friendly