Changing spark plugs in 2005 Tundra V8...advice needed

[sixdogs]

What kind of trouble can I get into while changing the spark plugs in my 2005 Toyota Tundra 4.7 V8. My experience is limited to conventional engines and conventional plugs. This engine is aluminum and what appears to be a coil(?) over each plug.

My plan is to get the engine hot, carefully extricate the plugs, slather some anti-seize on the plug threads and torque back in. Simple enough but could the plugs be stuck? is anti-seize the right thing? What other problems can I have?

Any advice appreciated since the OE NGK IR plugs should be here on Thursday. Thanks.

 

[charlz]

I did mine on my 2003 Sequoia with the same engine about a year ago. It is pretty straight forward and quick. The coil on each plug actually makes it easier than plug wires I think. IIRC the plugs are pretty far down in there so you need a long extension and maybe a selection of shorter ones so you can work around other stuff under the hood. The biggest problem I had was when the rubber boot from my plug socket stayed on a spark plug waaay down in there and I had to get it back out. My existing plugs did not have anti-seize on them and I did not put any on the new ones.

 

[kenmac]

I a 2007 tundra with the 5.7 engine. I don't have enough miles on the motor to change out the plugs ,but it looks pretty straight forward.. unbolt the coil pack and remove the plug...I would apply anti seize to the threads. Always good to put some type of lube when dissimilar metals are involved

 

[jaotguy]

NOPE ... just make sure the plugs you put in, have the anodized coating ( NGK , etc )

DO NOT use Champion plugs ( steel plug to alum is a NO NO ... even with anti seize )

also , use a 12" length of fuel/ windshield washer line slipped over the plug tip ... use it to start the plugs , so you can't cross thread them ...

 

[Coyote machine]

DON'T remove the plugs when the engine is HOT. Remove them when it's cold. Copper based anti-seize is what I always used in my foreign auto shop, made by Wurth, a German company.

 

[sixdogs]

thank you all...excellent advice. I'm using NGK Iridium plugs so I should change the plugs when the engine is cold. Got it.
And I understand the piece of tubing thing.

 

[Coyote machine]

What mileage is the truck at? Those plugs are good for 30K miles, IIRC.

 

[kenmac]

What mileage is the truck at? Those plugs are good for 30K miles, IIRC.

I was told those plugs were good for 80-100 k in my toyota

 

[Mace Canute]

DON'T remove the plugs when the engine is HOT. Remove then when it's cold. Copper based anti-seize is what I always used in my foreign auto shop, made by Wurth, a German company.

x 2! :thumbsup:

 

[Coyote machine]

I was told those plugs were good for 80-100 k in my toyota

Was that when the Tooth Fairy took your last $1.00?!

Here's the link which shows which plug goes the 80-100K:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_LaserIridium_vs_Iridium IX.pdf

 

[kenmac]

Was that when the Tooth Fairy took your last $1.00?!

Here's the link which shows which plug goes the 80-100K:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_LaserIridium_vs_Iridium IX.pdf

Yep, I guess I should have looked it up instead of taking someone's word. I've only got about 42 K on it so, I'll wait a few more B-4 changing them out


How Long Will My Iridium Spark Plugs Last?

 

[dfkrug]

Yep, I guess I should have looked it up instead of taking someone's word. I've only got about
42 K on it so, I'll wait a few more B-4 changing them out

All 3 of my Toyotas have Iridium plugs, and I believe all of them call for changing them at 100K mi.

My MR2 Spyder is past 90K mi now, and the original plugs still look great, plus the gaps are in spec.
Maybe I can go beyond 100K mi.....

I always lube plugs threads before installing, tho I have never heard of a Toyota having a siezed
plug.

I will double-check plug specs when I buy new ones.

 

[sixdogs]

The truck has 95,000 on it and OEM iridium plugs in it. I'm putting the same OEM plugs as replacements.

 

[charlz]

Frankly the plugs last so long I never really thought about changing them until I started to notice a really faint miss-fire when taking off from a stop. I had a good 125k+ miles on them and they were in pretty poor shape.

 

[KennyG]

Any plug replacement should be full precious metal. The cost difference isn't enough to justify the labor in changing them more often. I've had a shop tell me they see the full platinum plugs go 125,000 to 150,000 without a problem. They also recommend changing wiring at that time, but I've had others say that since the wiring is low voltage with the coil on plug design, it doesn't matter. Any experience on that?

 

[3930dave]

Might have been mentioned already..... use a dielectric grease on the boots/seals. Helps seal out moisture, and prevents the boots from fusing on.

Electrical System Maintenance : Permatex

Up here in salt-country, we pretty much need to slather the whole vehicle in this stuff.

(My semi-depressed way of saying..... that stuff is good to use on all sorts of connectors).

Rgds, D.

 

[jaotguy]

Might have been mentioned already..... use a dielectric grease on the boots/seals. Helps seal out moisture, and prevents the boots from fusing on.
.

X 2 .... and stops arcing

 

[MacLawn]

1. Cold engine
2. Original equipment plugs
3. Dialectic grease on boots
4. Torque right
5. No antiseize
6. Be glad, very glad you're not doing this on a say, '02-'08 or so F150! I just did my '02. Never again.

 

[dfkrug]

6. Be glad, very glad you're not doing this on a say, '02-'08 or so F150! I just did my '02. Never again.

I hear dealers charge $500 for a plug change on those Ford V8s, and breaking them off is very very common.
How user-mean can you get?

Another reason to be happy with changing plugs on a Toyota Tundra.....

 

[sixdogs]

1. Cold engine
2. Original equipment plugs
3. Dialectic grease on boots
4. Torque right
5. No antiseize
6. Be glad, very glad you're not doing this on a say, '02


I'm confused about antiseize since some say yes and some say no.