Charging problem

[Inspector507]

Greg,
I saw the response you gave earlier, but was unable to respond, I was at work.........busy busy busy.
Glad you might replace it with an OEM part. Makes it easier in the future for you or the next owner to work on it. I have a house that the dreaded "Previous Owner" tried to do things he had no idea about what was going on.
I just got lost in all the technical stuff and all the different systems on different tractors. Figured it would be easier to replace like for like and get it over with. There is so much knowledge here, it kinda makes the head spin "hearing" it all in the posts.

 

[normde2001]

I have been using VOM meters for over 40 years and personally have never seen a DC only meter. Whether it be a $5 dime store analog, $90 "Triplet" analog or $200 "Fluke" digital, 120VAC has always read 120VAC. They must be pretty rare.

 

[Keoke]

Norm, automotive, truck and tractor repair shop all use analog DC voltmeters extensively. This is especially true when they are measuring dynamic circuit resistance (voltage drop at load).
Analog VOM's (Volt, ohm meters combined) have never been real popular with the above shops.
Today of course, for static circuit resistance measurement, most shops are now using the ohm function of their digital
multi-meters.
Analog ohm meters, however, have an advantage over digital ohmeters meters in that they can be used to test diodes while they are still attached to the coils or stators they are wired into. This is a distinct advantage especially when the diodes are sodered into circuit.

cheers,

 

[Soundguy]

I've seen limited dc only jobs at automotive stores. Seems some of the mechanics are only interested in the continuity and dc voltage function. ( I guess they assume that is all you will need ). Ive even seen some of these 9.99 jobs that do the dc, ohm, and timing. ( actually a nice feature ).
As for the 120vac, remember that that is 120vac(RMS), not peak, or peak to peak. Rarely do you see a peak reading voltmeter for consumer use. That said though, most of the mid to high end meters that do freq. counting, or have osciliscope functions, probably definately read rms. peak, and peak to peak, as a function of their design.

Soundguy

"I have been using VOM meters for over 40 years and personally have never seen a DC only meter. Whether it be a $5 dime store analog, $90 "Triplet" analog or $200 "Fluke" digital, 120VAC has always read 120VAC. They must be pretty rare. "

 

[gbirky]

George,
Thanks for all the good information. Here are a few more comments and information.

The place I took the alternator and regulator tested both, and told me the alternator was good, but the regulator was bad.

1. The tractor does NOT have a charge indicator lamp.

2. I never checked the alternator myself. I tried looking for the ticket the shop wrote on indicating the voltage and current generated by the alternator. I couldn't find it. I has more pressing matters as I found that the brakes had locked up, and I had to disassmble them. I have no reason to believe that there is a poor connection between alt and bat, as I replaced this lead since it had been fried by DPO.

3. An interesting concept on which I'd like more information. My tractor doesn't have a tach, and I would like to add one. Where do I get such a meter, and how would I hook it up?

4. I suspect that my system has just as low a current generated, but still has a regulator besides the rectifier. Maybe its OK to run it without the VR, but the engineers who designed the thing must have thought differently.

5. I have a cheap Radio Shack VOM that reads both AC and DC. I haven't used it to check this system.

Greg

 

[gbirky]

Jerry,
Putting some non OEM VR on this tractor (YM1110D) doesn't really phase me at this point as I have had to make a number of other modifications. The most important of which is to replace the front (4x4) axle with one from a different model (YM1100D) tractor. I had to move it forward about 7" and am having the steering linkage lengthened to accomodate the new axle location. I can now put a much larger belly mower on this thing if I wanted. Unfortunately, I don't think I can hook up the drive to the front axle as I believe the axle ratio is different. So this tractor is going to be a real mess - and I'll probably end up keeping it because of that.

Once I'm done, I'll take a couple of photos of this odd beast to show everyone.
Greg

 

[Soundguy]

Wow.. no tach on a tractor..... I would think that a tach and an oil lamp and temp lamp are minimums for tractor usage.

Did it have one oem and is missing? Or is there no evidence that it ever had one.

Soundguy

 

[gbirky]

Soundguy,
This particular model never had a tach or hour meter. It does have oil and temp lights. It is a very small tractor - no bigger than a good garden tractor. But it is a diesel, and it is 4x4. I completely tore down the engine and rebuilt it, the only thing I didn't do is put new sleeves in it because they measured out to new spec. Its a 2 cylinder, only about 13 hp, but built like a tank. I think the crankshaft alone weighs more than the entire engine on my 16hp lawn tractor. I'll post photos when I get a chance.
Greg

 

[Soundguy]

Ok, now our interest is peaked again.. I looked at your bio, but it doesn't list the tractor type.

Soundguy

 

[gbirky]

Soundguy,
I'll go edit my bio to include this information. Right now I have: YM1110D - bad front axle, YM1110D (a second one) bad valves (I think), YM1301D with loader - a sweet little tractor, YM1510D with loader - not pretty but mechanically sound, F15D needs paint. At some point, I guess I'll have to sell a couple. The YM1510D, and F15D will go first I think.

I attached a photo of the YM1301D.

These Yanmars are kind of a hobby for me.

Greg