Charging problem

   / Charging problem #101  
I'm surprised the grey models didn't have a tach. Most of the other ones I've seen have, including my 1700. Pretty odd.
Kinda hard to gauge pto rpm and such except by ear...

Soundguy
 
   / Charging problem #102  
Soundguy,
I don't know if they had tachs or not, but I understand that some of the YM1100's and YM1300's didn't have hour meters.

For the YM1110D's I have, I think the idea is that the engine is run like a small gasoline engine. That is, full throttle at all times, and let the governor control fuel.

Greg
 
   / Charging problem #103  
Slightly off-topic...nearby old-time "mechanic" always measures RPM by ear-he doesn't trust tachs...and he's always dead-on, too, regardless of Diesel or Gasoline, 1 cylinder or 8!

Couchsachraga
 
   / Charging problem #104  
Greg, I would run the alternator without VR and measure the voltage at the battery. If it's less then 15 volts and below 5 amps I would not worry about overcharge. If charge rate is more then above, take a coil of 14 gauge wire and put it in series between alt and battery before any loads.
You then vary the loops on coil (length of wire) to get voltage down to what you want at (13.8/14.8). This cheapo VR will work with a small output alt like yours. The excess voltage and current (watts) is converted into heat in the coil of wire. This would be better then having no charge going into battery at all.

On the tachs that run off the alternators stator AC tap.
These units work by measuring the AC frequency and converting the peak to peak cycles to RPM. Of course drive and alt pulley sizes would have to be considered in the conversion of alt freq to engine RPM. However, it would be real tough to find a frequency tach for you unit because most automotive type alt's are 3 phase where as your unit is a single phase alt.
Three phase units generate 3 times as much current per rotor revolution and also give 3 peak to peak pulse's per rotor turn. This triple pulse makes a big difference at idle in charge rate as well.
Your alt only gives one pulse per rotor turn so it may be tough to find a freq tach that will work with it.

Hope you the best of luck in your "Yanmar Splicing" plans.

By the way, I too own a Yanmar tractor, aka a John Deere 970. Those folks know how to build a good tractor.
Apparently, JD knows, that Yanmar knows, how to build a good tractor as well.

cheers,
 
   / Charging problem #105  
The YM1100 does not have a tach or hour meter. The YM1300 has both.

Thanks,
Bruce
 
   / Charging problem #106  
By definition, that coil of wire is an inductor. Inductors oppose change in current flow ( reverse emf ). ( likewise, Capacitors absorb/discharge voltage ). The small ( varaible )voltage drop you are experiencing is due to the internal ( very low ) resistance of the coil ( as a side note, a low value high wattage carbon composite or metal film resistor will serve the same voltage dropping purpose- but not all will have a filtering effect.). Not very efficient as a VR, but will provide a decent 'choke' effect for emi interference, and spikes/surges from the generator. Add an electrolytic capacitor( from positive to ground ) before the coil, and after the coil, and also add a ceramic disc capacitor after the coil in parallel with the other electrolytic capacitor. ( You have just made a PI filter, a very good power filter circuit ). If you wanted to get fancy, you could also add a fuse ( prior to this stage in the circuit, and right after the fuse, a zenir diode and resistor combination between positive and negative ( calculate so that 16.5 volts allows the diode to conduct. In this circuit, if the generator fails, and produces over the 16.5 volts, the venir diode would start conducting, thereby creating a short circuit, and then the fuse would fail. Proper fuse value must be determined. ( higher ( I ) than the regular charge rate of the generator).

If we keep on.. these tractors will have some sophisticated electrical systems soon.

Soundguy

""If charge rate is more then above, take a coil of 14 gauge wire and put it in series between alt and battery before any loads.
You then vary the loops on coil (length of wire) to get voltage down to what you want at (13.8/14.8). This cheapo VR will work with a small output alt like yours. The excess voltage and current (watts) is converted into heat in the coil of wire. ""
 
   / Charging problem #107  
Just an update for those interested: I finally measured voltage at the battery on this YM1110D without the VR. At idle, I have about 12 volts. At full throttle (the normal operating position) its about 20 volts. I think this is too much, and I need that VR.

I also took the alternator and turned the pulley by hand. For each full rotation of the alternator, there are a total of 6 "detents". That is, I can feel 6 magneticly induced resistances to motion, and 6 locations of no resistance. I would assume this means that I actually have multiple pulses per rotation.

Greg
 
   / Charging problem #108  
How many amps did you say this generator was rated for?

If it were mine.. I would run down to radio shack and pick up a fw bridge, to prevent reverse current in case of generator internal failure, a 1000u capacitor( as a filter for the vr circuit ), a mini circuit board, and a handfull of 7812 vr's ( and a component box, and just make a simple solid state charging circuit for this machine... probably less than 20 bucks, and is fairly efficient, and reverse current protects the system.

Soundguy


<font color=blue>"Just an update for those interested: I finally measured voltage at the battery on this YM1110D without the VR. At idle, I have about 12 volts. At full throttle (the normal operating position) its about 20 volts. I think this is too much, and I need that VR."
 
   / Charging problem #109  
Soundguy,
This sounds interesting. Can you draw out the circuit with components labeled, scan it, and attach to a post?

I can't remember what the shop said about voltage and current when they tested the alternator/rectifier. I'll try to look again for the tag that they wrote it on.
Greg
 
   / Charging problem #110  
jwjimbo,
Did you ever get that Kohler regulator hooked up? If so, does it work OK?

As I posted earlier, the YM1110D I have produces way to high a charging voltage at full throttle (about 20volts DC).

Greg
 

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