Chevy 6.0 starting issue.

[NS Gearhead]

It's a 2006 Chevy 2500HD, 6.0 gas. I've had this truck since the summer, and I'm on my 5th or 6th starter. Carquest rebuilds, lifetime guarantee. It'll work great until one day I try starting and get nothing. No click. Lights dim, but that's it. I've tried tapping the starter, boosting, disconnect and reconnect the battery... nothing. If I leave it for a couple days it may or may not start when I re-try. It's always worked again once the starter's changed... but sometimes only for a couple of weeks. The last time it was in the shop (because it started the one time so I drove it there), they found the ground wire was corroded and cleaned it up. Now, that visite it was working fine for them before cleaning the ground, and had worked for me until this weekend when it did the exact same thing. Had to change it in the snow. This time I added my own ground cable from the starter's bolt to the frame. Someone said this might help... worth a shot. I only used 16g because it's all I had, but I could upgrade to something heavier if I should. All I can think to do next time is to try jumpering the starter with a screwdriver. If it works I'll run a momentary switch from the starter to the cab and call it done. Any ideas what my issue is? It's become beyond frustrating. I can't depend on the **** thing... even though I have people that need me to plow them.

 

[HHR]

I'm guessing that you are getting improperly rebuilt starters from CarQuest. Try a DB Electrical - New Starter 6.0L Esclade Silverado Suburban Trailblazer Yukon 06 07 08NEW starter from DB Electrical and see if that one lasts you. If a different starter fixes the issue every time (if only temporarily, I would say that the starter is the problem unless you have an issue with your alternator shorting out or something.

 

[HHR]

I had a Lincoln that had loose shifter linkage that wasn't allowing the car to shift all the way into park. The neutral safety switch then prevented the starter from engaging. Next time this happens, drop the truck into neutral and try starting it. Maybe the neutral safety switch is failing. They are on the transmission and guys who plow often get snow and moisture up in that area.

 

[Bigkrank]

Went thru 3 "lifetime" alternators from AutoZone before I got tired changing them and got one somewhere else. end of problem.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Sorry, forgot to say i'd tried it in neutral as well... no change.

Mechanic just tried the starter on the bench and it worked fine. Could it work on the bench and not be good or strong enough for the truck? If that's the problem I would think the solenoid would click at least.

 

[aeblank]

Goes back a few years, but I went through the same thing on my 1995 Chevy. Replaced with an AC Delco (OEM) and haven't had a problem in the last 15 years. I wouldn't hack up your truck for a ***** starter. Pony up for the Delco and be done.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Goes back a few years, but I went through the same thing on my 1995 Chevy. Replaced with an AC Delco (OEM) and haven't had a problem in the last 15 years. I wouldn't hack up your truck for a ***** starter. Pony up for the Delco and be done.

Yeah, I was leaning towards trying that this time... AC Delco and everything... until I hear the difference was $300, but it may come to that next time.

 

[tcartwri]

Boy there's a lot of complaints about this on the GM boards....

 

[Soundguy]

id look at all the load carrying cabling, connection points, including those hidden in the harness. if this is a snow/salt area, a crimp connector might be real bad, and the act of changing the starter moves the cabline around to work till it corodes again.

make sure the mating area is good and clean too. adding a extra ground is nice, but 16g is peeing in the wind.

Lastly, make sur ethe vehicles battery is up to it. I have seen batteries that startt good one day and not the next. do a voltage drop test. if your bat drops past 11 check it. if it hits 8-10 you have a huge issue.

next check is to make sur ethe start line fromthe key is really going hot AND is carrying sufficient current to activate the relay/solenoid.

a volt meter alone will tell voltage.. but i'd load test it with something in the 5a range..

 

[NS Gearhead]

adding a extra ground is nice, but 16g is peeing in the wind.

What gage would be good? I've got electricians at work that could make it for me no prob.

I plan to clean the battery connections today, then next time it happens swap batteries with one of my cars, just to confirm. Then screwdriver across solenoid posts. I've got a mobile heavy equipment guy willing to come have a look next time as well... so that's something.

 

[Soundguy]

as a spare ground, I'd go 4ga minimum. reason i say 4, is that is the minimum you see 'cheap' booster cables using.

so 4awg , stranded. those will assure you good ground. I have spare grounds on many of my tractor starters for extra insurance.

 

[George2615]

When you pulled the original starter did you save the shims that go between the starter and engine and reinstall them with the new starter. Most Chevy starters require shims. If they are not reinstalled the bendix can bind when engaged. No shims can put excess pressure on the bearing / bushing, damage the ring gear teeth, cause it to overheat. Bench testing does not always tell if a starter is good since there is no load.
If you did install them then it may be time for a different starter rebuilder. Check with Rock Auto for pricing.

 

[tcartwri]

It's not the starters. The fact that the problem is always resolved for a short period after the starter is swapped out, tells me it is in the harness. Or something do with moving the truck.

There are reams of threads talking about this problem on the boards.

 

[Soundguy]

It's not the starters. The fact that the problem is always resolved for a short period after the starter is swapped out, tells me it is in the harness. Or something do with moving the truck.

There are reams of threads talking about this problem on the boards.

I agree, moving a connection at reinstall could make a connection better, temporarily...

 

[timswi]

As was mentioned, I'd go after the ground first. I had one on a diesel Suburban corrode inside the sheathing and would start after messing with the wires..Odd but certainly possible...Cheap insurance if it fixes the problem or not.

 

[NS Gearhead]

as a spare ground, I'd go 4ga minimum. reason i say 4, is that is the minimum you see 'cheap' booster cables using.

so 4awg , stranded. those will assure you good ground. I have spare grounds on many of my tractor starters for extra insurance.

Ok, I'll do that asap.

 

[NS Gearhead]

When you pulled the original starter did you save the shims that go between the starter and engine and reinstall them with the new starter. Most Chevy starters require shims. If they are not reinstalled the bendix can bind when engaged. No shims can put excess pressure on the bearing / bushing, damage the ring gear teeth, cause it to overheat. Bench testing does not always tell if a starter is good since there is no load.
If you did install them then it may be time for a different starter rebuilder. Check with Rock Auto for pricing.

No shims that I can remember. I certainly would have put them back if some were there.

 

[Diamondpilot]

2 of my 4 GM trucks have had to have the Neutral Safety Switch replaced. Good news is it was about $30 and took. Me under a hour.

Short of that I would look closely at the ground wire. My old Ford tractor had a issue with starters and I finally ran the ground to the bolt mounting the starter and the problem disappeared.

Chris

 

[GLyford]

Remember there is usually a battery-to-engine ground, an engine-to-frame ground, and an engine-to-body ground (usually a little flat braided thing that attaches to the firewall). That last one in particular can get cut or abraded pretty easily. Some of those just clip onto a body seam like they're nothing. I'd replace (not just shine) all of them. I don't remember if there is also a body-to-frame, body-to-battery, and frame-to-battery...? If there are, add them to the list.

I've heard it said that electric currents can actually pump the roadsalt-water we run our trucks in up the tube of insulation around the wires to corrode them in totally unexpected places. You already know you have some corrosion...make it all start over. I'd probably be tempted to slop a bunch of "liquid" electrical tape on stuff as I was redoing it, just for giggles.

My brother is a big fan of keeping on top of battery corrosion, every so often he will heat up the kettle, take it outside, and rinse off the top of the battery, especially the terminals.

 

[ch1ch2]

Try replacing the whole ground cable.
Corrosion can hide inside the insulation.