Chipper Chinese Chipper Review
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TonyC
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The toughest part was getting the old ring out. I ended up cutting it out with a small cutting wheel in a Dremel Moto-tool )</font>
Well I started chipping today...about the second hour of use on the machine. My circlip gave out I guess I have to go through the same mess as you were now!
Well I started chipping today...about the second hour of use on the machine. My circlip gave out I guess I have to go through the same mess as you were now!
TonyC
Platinum Member
Hey Ken...one more thing. Do you have the exact dimensions on that circlip? I would like to try to find it locally. Thanks.
Hi TonyC - Sorry to hear that you had the same problem as I did. The retaining ring that I used was a 1" OD. This fix only has seemed to band-aid the problem though. Did some serious chipping last weekend, and seemed like I was going through these clips once an hour. Only good part is that it only takes me about 5 minutes to change it out versus the 6 hours it took me to get out the original. I would suggest getting the retaining rings in steel rather than stainless like I did the first time, I don't think they are as tough as the steel would be. I have ordered some steel ones to try out, but also ordered what I hope to be the ultimate fix, replace the factory part with an actual u-joint. It's not a cheap fix @ $35 but if it solves the problem, I'm all for it. It will require a bit of machining, and welding but I think it's worth a try. I'll keep you posted on where I end up on this. It seems to be only the upper joint by the gear reduction unit thats giving me a problem. I did a lot of studying this weekend to see what is causing the problem, and the only thing that I can see right off is that the angle from the gear unit to the feed roller seems to be a bit too steep for the kind of joint they are using. When you are feeding material through the unit everything works like you would expect, the spring holds the joint tight. Where it seems to get into trouble is with small twigs, and branches when the drum is in it's lowest position.
It seems there is something going on with the drive shaft that not all of us run into and while it may seem that I'm the only guy without problems, I'm the only guy without problems AND a computer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I am one of 3 locally who have these and we all have over 30 hours without issues. There are two dealers within 2 hours of my house, and they are both stumped.
I'd like to really figure this out so the dealers that import these can send a change request back to Jinma.
Is it possible that the ball end of the socket isn't cut down enough? The angle at the gearbox shaft and the roller shaft is the same as the shafts are parrallel. So if only one side is failing all the time, then there is something wrong/different with that end of the shaft.
If it were my unit, I would remove a small amount of material from the ball end of the joint where it is striking the clip before going through the effort of putting a u-joint in. A U-joint will have even a steeper angle to deal with as it will be wider than the current ball and socket joint.
Oooo, that leads me to this last thought, if the drive belt is too short, then the pulley's are closer together and the angle is steeper. I've seen replacement x-refs citing 36, 37, and 38" X 1/2" belts. The longest belt that can be tightened (limited by the slots on the gearbox mounting plate) would seem to be the best belt for the mechanism.
Please keep us informed and if you need any pictures of my unit to help, don't hesitate to ask.
I'd like to really figure this out so the dealers that import these can send a change request back to Jinma.
Is it possible that the ball end of the socket isn't cut down enough? The angle at the gearbox shaft and the roller shaft is the same as the shafts are parrallel. So if only one side is failing all the time, then there is something wrong/different with that end of the shaft.
If it were my unit, I would remove a small amount of material from the ball end of the joint where it is striking the clip before going through the effort of putting a u-joint in. A U-joint will have even a steeper angle to deal with as it will be wider than the current ball and socket joint.
Oooo, that leads me to this last thought, if the drive belt is too short, then the pulley's are closer together and the angle is steeper. I've seen replacement x-refs citing 36, 37, and 38" X 1/2" belts. The longest belt that can be tightened (limited by the slots on the gearbox mounting plate) would seem to be the best belt for the mechanism.
Please keep us informed and if you need any pictures of my unit to help, don't hesitate to ask.
TonyC
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Only good part is that it only takes me about 5 minutes to change it out versus the 6 hours it took me to get out the original.
I would suggest getting the retaining rings in steel rather than stainless like I did the first time, I don't think they are as tough as the steel would be.
Where it seems to get into trouble is with small twigs, and branches when the drum is in it's lowest position. )</font>
Hi Ken...thaks for the vote of sympathy. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I haven't tried to get the old one out yet. It looks very ugly.
I thought about that too when you originally said you were getting stainless steel. I built a greenhouse using stainless steel screws and found out first hand how soft it is. That could be your problem.
It's odd what you said about twigs. Mine failed when I attempted to max out the feed roller with a larger trunk. It had been fine up until then. I plan to have a friend of mine look at it. He is a master mechanic (autos) but a good mechanic is a good mechanic, right? I guess we'll see how she goes. I'll keep you posted.
I would suggest getting the retaining rings in steel rather than stainless like I did the first time, I don't think they are as tough as the steel would be.
Where it seems to get into trouble is with small twigs, and branches when the drum is in it's lowest position. )</font>
Hi Ken...thaks for the vote of sympathy. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I haven't tried to get the old one out yet. It looks very ugly.
I thought about that too when you originally said you were getting stainless steel. I built a greenhouse using stainless steel screws and found out first hand how soft it is. That could be your problem.
It's odd what you said about twigs. Mine failed when I attempted to max out the feed roller with a larger trunk. It had been fine up until then. I plan to have a friend of mine look at it. He is a master mechanic (autos) but a good mechanic is a good mechanic, right? I guess we'll see how she goes. I'll keep you posted.
MajMac392
Gold Member
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- Jan 8, 2002
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- 411
- Location
- Southern Maine
- Tractor
- Cub Cadet 7234, John Deere X300 Riding Lawn Mower
Tony, This is probably a stupid question but have you gone back to ask Gary where you bought the chipper, about the problem? You are at least the second person on the forum, so there are probably more people out there, that have had the problem and just wondering if the Chinese Factory has been told about it and come up with any fixes. They are pretty ingenious folks and I would think they would want to correct the problem. I would almost think you, (or any owner of Jinma equipment), could contact the factory via the Internet directly.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
MajMac392
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2002
- Messages
- 411
- Location
- Southern Maine
- Tractor
- Cub Cadet 7234, John Deere X300 Riding Lawn Mower
dsinger,
I don't own one but I keep thinking about the chipper shaft problem. I'm also going to look at a used chipper, the owner thought it was a Danuser but couldn't remember the name. That got me to thinking, I don't think the Danuser is made here in the US anymore but dsinger mentioned the Chinese one looked like a Danuser knockoff. I spent a tour in Korea so I know that they seem to be able to copy about anything. My question is "How does the Danuser chipper's drive work, is it the same type of shaft?" Maybe looking at the Danuser might help fix the Jinma chipper problem or even retrofit it.
I don't own one but I keep thinking about the chipper shaft problem. I'm also going to look at a used chipper, the owner thought it was a Danuser but couldn't remember the name. That got me to thinking, I don't think the Danuser is made here in the US anymore but dsinger mentioned the Chinese one looked like a Danuser knockoff. I spent a tour in Korea so I know that they seem to be able to copy about anything. My question is "How does the Danuser chipper's drive work, is it the same type of shaft?" Maybe looking at the Danuser might help fix the Jinma chipper problem or even retrofit it.
DIYGuy/
I am planning on buying a chipper from gary and I am wondering if you are still having problems with yours. would you recommend purchasing one. I have 5 acres of heavy woods so there is always something to chip. I have a kubota bx22 and it rated to lift 1200 pounds at the the lifting points. do you think it will work. I just got the tractor, and I am very inexperienced. any help would be appreciated. I am also looking for a forklift attachemnt.
thanks
chuck
I am planning on buying a chipper from gary and I am wondering if you are still having problems with yours. would you recommend purchasing one. I have 5 acres of heavy woods so there is always something to chip. I have a kubota bx22 and it rated to lift 1200 pounds at the the lifting points. do you think it will work. I just got the tractor, and I am very inexperienced. any help would be appreciated. I am also looking for a forklift attachemnt.
thanks
chuck
