Choosing a chop saw?

[Bill_C]

I don't use cutting oil. Maybe it would extend the life of the blade, but the extra mess for me isn't worth the aggravation...

 

[mjncad]

If its a dry saw, I don't use cutting oil either. Too messy.

 

[JSharp]

Bill_C. Thanks for the tip. I checked the manual on HF and sure enough it is the exact same bandsaw that I got from Princess Auto here. The HF manual is AWESOME! I now know what the point of some of the parts - like the stock stop

One question: Should I be using cutting oil at all when operating it?

That appears to be the same model bandsaw as what I purchased at the local Rural King a few years ago for $129. Dollar deflation I suppose. Did yours come with a small stamped metal table so it can be used as a vertical bandsaw? Mine did and it's come in handy for smaller parts.

I use cutting oil with mine. Yes it's a little messy but it does seem to extend blade life.

 

[chumly2071]

One thing to note, if you didn't replace the included blade with a high quality bi-metal blade, you will be surprised when you do. Look at the yahoo users group for the 4x6. There are a ton of good ideas there for improving the saw. One of the important ones is to open up the gear reduction box, and clean the debris out, and refill with good quality lube. The specific type required can be found in a thread on shopfloortalk.com. Regular automotive gear oil does not have the correct additives in it for the worm gear, and can damage it over time. The specifics of this are in the shopfloortalk thread.

 

[canoetrpr]

Yep, this one did come with the stamped metal thingy to convert it to a vertical.

I spoke too soon on the blade. On the third or fourth cut, the blade snapped. Right at the spot where it had been welded together from the factory.

I took it back to Princess Auto. They have awesome after sales service. Dosen't hurt that the girl at the customer service desk is kind on the eyes as well . She replaced the blade for me with a bimetal one. I offerred to pay the extra amount but since I was inconvenienced they sucked up the extra $10 or so. I picked up a replacement one as well just in case I loose another one when they are closed some time.

Now its probably not a quality bimetal blade... but it is bimetal and I have done several cuts today and its worked well. The bandsaw still requires some TLC between cuts - check blade tension etc. etc. but is working out quite well.

Will check on the 4x4 links. Replacing the gear lube seems like a great idea. I have decent stuff lying around anyway.

 

[patrick_g]

Pocket parts:

Frequently after disassembly and reassembly or initial assembly there are a few left over parts. These are pocket parts.

Put them in your pocket and try not to worry about them.

Anything with that many parts will probably do fine with just a few small pieces held in reserve.

Pat

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. the bi-metal blade is worth it.. and needed over the oem bloade..

soundguy

Yep, this one did come with the stamped metal thingy to convert it to a vertical.

I spoke too soon on the blade. On the third or fourth cut, the blade snapped. Right at the spot where it had been welded together from the factory.

I took it back to Princess Auto. They have awesome after sales service. Dosen't hurt that the girl at the customer service desk is kind on the eyes as well . She replaced the blade for me with a bimetal one. I offerred to pay the extra amount but since I was inconvenienced they sucked up the extra $10 or so. I picked up a replacement one as well just in case I loose another one when they are closed some time.

Now its probably not a quality bimetal blade... but it is bimetal and I have done several cuts today and its worked well. The bandsaw still requires some TLC between cuts - check blade tension etc. etc. but is working out quite well.

Will check on the 4x4 links. Replacing the gear lube seems like a great idea. I have decent stuff lying around anyway.

 

[bjr]

I have reconditioned "D" handle style Dewalt chop saw that's been great for 4 yrs. It's been intermittened light duty use. Now when I try to start it, it pops a twenty amp circuit breaker. I've switched breakers and it does the same thing. after trying it about 6 or 7 times it will finally take off without popping the breaker. Is there a autobrake on the amutuer or some to stop the wheel? I don't know what's going on? Does anyone else have this issue with a chop saw? bjr

 

[chumly2071]

here is the thread I was talking about that discusses the proper lube for the worm gear reduction box on the bandsaws.

HTH...

Chad-

 

[Egon]

Buy a blade welding kit and some good blade stock.

 

[Charlesaf3]

maybe its just me, but I find the smoke comments hilarious. Even though the smoke is trying to escape from my makita drill after mixing grout with it...

bjr - I'd bet you have a loose wire in there that's causing a short, and that's what's tripping the breaker. Happened to me before with other stuff.

 

[wushaw]

I have reconditioned "D" handle style Dewalt chop saw that's been great for 4 yrs. It's been intermittened light duty use. Now when I try to start it, it pops a twenty amp circuit breaker. I've switched breakers and it does the same thing. after trying it about 6 or 7 times it will finally take off without popping the breaker. Is there a autobrake on the amutuer or some to stop the wheel? I don't know what's going on? Does anyone else have this issue with a chop saw? bjr

My Makita has from day one will trip a 20amp breaker, I have one circuit with 10ga wire and a 30amp breaker I use it on.
These saws are 15amp but just like any motor there is start up amps that is usually higher that their rating.

 

[bjr]

I dunno why I didn't think to look on the Dewalt website before asking that question. Dewalt actually addresses this and recommends the 30 amp breaker or using a 14 guage 25' extension cord. I guess the extension cord acts as a resister of sorts. I will continue to to buy Dewalt when I can afford it because they're not afraid to address these kind of issues on their support site. I just felt like a follow up would be okay on my question. bjr

 

[Soundguy]

Buy a blade welding kit and some good blade stock.

About 20ys ago I used to have a nice bandsaw welder kit.. had the built in polish wheel to grind down the overlap.. worked prety nifty.

soundguy

 

[AlanB]

I have the homemade "kit" to silver solder the blades together.

short version is that you feather the edges on a grinder holding them side by side face to back (easier to show then too explain in words)

Then flux, then clamp in a jig too hold them in line, then silver solder with just enough heat to do the silver solder.

Had about the same success rate with that as I did with the commercial blade welder setup.

Anymore, for what I do, I buy a dozen china blades at a time and let them rip.

Biggest thing I did for my bandsaw was a good solid base with real wheels and higher so I did not have to bend down so far.

Saw a demo (and bought his tips sheet) of a guy one time that was selling the tip sheet on how to set those saws up.

He was running a mist coolant system, some super duper blade, some better guide systems etc. but basicly a cheapie HF saw.

He was cutting constantly at this show off from a piece of 2" or so round stainless I think it was, cutting off slices about .100 thick. It was impressive.

 

[Soundguy]

I remember welding those things up in a shop I worked at.. some of the guys would break 2-3 a day by twisting wood too fast instead of making sloping cuts.. etc..

soundguy