Choosing my First Tractor

[WinterDeere]

I had a 4wd machine with a loader a manual steering once. I developed some pretty serious elbow pain issues in the year or two I owned it, repetitive stress injury like tennis elbow. Went away as soon as I traded it in for a machine with power steering.

Another bonus, the former had manual gear box whereas the latter had HST. Manual gear box with a loader is fun for awhile, but gets old fast.

 

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I forgot about the 80s small Fords, Shibura or whatever made them. Not specifically bad, just pretty much orphans. The 2000/3000 series still have great parts support though.

Really?
My jd 750 made by Yanmar in 1985 became miserable for parts support.

 

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I had a 4wd machine with a loader a manual steering once. I developed some pretty serious elbow pain issues in the year or two I owned it, repetitive stress injury like tennis elbow. Went away as soon as I traded it in for a machine with power steering.

Another bonus, the former had manual gear box whereas the latter had HST. Manual gear box with a loader is fun for awhile, but gets old fast.

I Still love and prefer a shuttle.
Physicality issues do indeed reflect mind set however.

 

[WinterDeere]

Really?
My jd 750 made by Yanmar in 1985 became miserable for parts support.

Sounds like a dealer problem. I sold my 1984 JD 750 ca.2013, and there was never a part for it that I could not buy at my Deere dealer. The only reason I sold it was that I wanted to get to a machine with power steering and a removable loader.

That said, I have to admit that I wasn't buying any major castings for it, just regular maintenance parts, hydraulic fittings, etc.

I did have to buy an axle casting for my 1986 JD 855 in 2018, and at 32 years of age, Deere still had the parts! That was pretty much when I decided my next (new) tractor would be a Deere.

 

[WinterDeere]

I Still love and prefer a shuttle.
Physicality issues do indeed reflect mind set however.

So does usage. Many years after I started buying HST tractors, I was still buying all of my cars and pickup trucks with a manual transmission. I love clutches and gearboxes, but they sure slow down chores like moving mulch or clearing the driveway of snow.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Over time I'm running into more and more situations I'd like to have a tractor. Since I am currently buying a new home with 4 acres and want to maintain and grow a small homestead, it's time.

I first fell in love with the older sub compact b6 7 8000 tractors with a fel. As i do more research and hear more things, people say do not under buy and go a size up from what you want.

I'd like a good all around compact tractor. Id like to do things like pull cars and trailers around, some grading and leveling, move brush, pulling engines, use some other implements.

I believe a sub compact could do most of these things but if I'm gonna buy one and keep it for a long time... might as well make sure it's up to the task.

I like older tractors, cheaper, I see plenty, and I don't mind a repair here and there. I'd like something that can work in tighter spaces, a big plus of the b series to me.

I've been watching marketplace and Craigslist for some time. New, and old, it seems hard to judge the sizes between the many models. Not to mention hp, fel and rear loader capacities, 2wd vs 4wd, power steering? Tractor data is a useful resource, and I'd like to go look at some but don't wanna be a tire kicker.

I see L175, 185, 245 are common and there are so many models in general. I'd like a 4wd model with a fel and ofcouse rear 3pt and pto. Budget 10k max. Wanna be educated and decisive. I like imports, leaning orange.

Can someone just drop some knowledge on me? Do smaller L series numbers inherently mean smaller? How do some of these newer and older series compare? Are there any resources that could shared with me? Located in NC.

Go look at the RK25 from Rural King and then use that as a benchmark to compare against. You can't get it for $10K, but then you can't get a nice 30 HP Kubota with loader for that amount either.

Sounds like you're able to turn a wrench. That RK25 is bigger than the largest Kubota B tractor. Just need to add the 3rd function option.

Just thought you might want to check it out and you need something to measure against related to size, weight, tires, features, capacity, HP, etc. Good luck.

 

[paulsharvey]

Sounds like a dealer problem. I sold my 1984 JD 750 ca.2013, and there was never a part for it that I could not buy at my Deere dealer. The only reason I sold it was that I wanted to get to a machine with power steering and a removable loader.

That said, I have to admit that I wasn't buying any major castings for it, just regular maintenance parts, hydraulic fittings, etc.

I did have to buy an axle casting for my 1986 JD 855 in 2018, and at 32 years of age, Deere still had the parts! That was pretty much when I decided my next (new) tractor would be a Deere.

My Kubuta L285, mid to late 1970s; steering box, Pittman arm, ect, I was able to get eventually, I think the steering box was the same as the L245, and if i remember right, the alternator was same as a Datusn pickup. But, none of that was available from Kubota. There was a weird fitting on the fuel delivery side, like $200, 3 month lead time from Japan; that I ended up fabricobbling from air fittings

 

[Fxfymn413]

It's a bit of a drive, but there are a couple of low hour Kubotas up for auction here: July 2025 Equipment Consignment Auction

 

[nortonbyk]

I have 40 acres here in MO, mostly wooded with about 2-3 acres of grass to mow around the house clearing. In 2014, I was a tractor newbie and went to my nearest tractor dealers (Mahindra, JD, NH, and Kubota). Kubota had package deals going on and were willing to mix and match attachments. They asked all the right questions to help me out. I bought their B2620 (FWD, HST, PS, quick disconnect FEL), 60" drive over belly mower, and a box blade. The package included a trailer, but I already had one. So I asked for a Bush hog and FEL tooth bar instead. All that for $22K. The only thing I added later was land plane for my 550 foot gravel driveway. At the risk of insulting myself, a chimp can grade a driveway perfectly with that land plane. I don't regret any of it 11 years later. If there is anything that machine can't do, I rent a machine that can. Since then I bought a JD X390 lawn tractor because changing the belly mower in and out became too much for my artificial joints. I don't know what a used B2620 with FEL goes for used, but mine has been bullet proof. Good luck on your search.

 

[Eebbee]

Over time I'm running into more and more situations I'd like to have a tractor. Since I am currently buying a new home with 4 acres and want to maintain and grow a small homestead, it's time.

I first fell in love with the older sub compact b6 7 8000 tractors with a fel. As i do more research and hear more things, people say do not under buy and go a size up from what you want.

I'd like a good all around compact tractor. Id like to do things like pull cars and trailers around, some grading and leveling, move brush, pulling engines, use some other implements.

I believe a sub compact could do most of these things but if I'm gonna buy one and keep it for a long time... might as well make sure it's up to the task.

I like older tractors, cheaper, I see plenty, and I don't mind a repair here and there. I'd like something that can work in tighter spaces, a big plus of the b series to me.

I've been watching marketplace and Craigslist for some time. New, and old, it seems hard to judge the sizes between the many models. Not to mention hp, fel and rear loader capacities, 2wd vs 4wd, power steering? Tractor data is a useful resource, and I'd like to go look at some but don't wanna be a tire kicker.

I see L175, 185, 245 are common and there are so many models in general. I'd like a 4wd model with a fel and ofcouse rear 3pt and pto. Budget 10k max. Wanna be educated and decisive. I like imports, leaning orange.

Can someone just drop some knowledge on me? Do smaller L series numbers inherently mean smaller? How do some of these newer and older series compare? Are there any resources that could shared with me? Located in NC.

I would say that it might be worth it to up your budget a bit to get something that will work well for you because a decently maintained tractor will last long enough to be passed down to your children and possibly grandchildren.
I think around 35hp is the sweet spot for good capacity and versatility on small acreage. Depending on what you intend to do 4wd might be desirable, if you might have to work in muddy areas or do snow removal.
At that size the tractor is small enough to work around in tight spots like around a house but still can handle close to 1000lbs on the FEL which is plenty for around the house. I bought a New Holland TC33D hydro with FEL and backhoe in 1999 and I still have it. I was able to do most of everything i needed to do on 3 acres and even able to work close around the house. The Supersteer option on this tractor was one of the best features making this tractor extremely maneuverable.
I agree with other comments that you might want to find one with the FEL already installed. A removable backhoe could be a nice addition for increased versatility. The one on my tractor was setup on a sub-frame (not on the 3-point) and was a matter of a few minutes to put on or off, of course with a bit of practice.

 

[Aquabird]

You might want to consider FEL lifting capacity. If you plan to use the FEL much, you do not want to fall short in that area. When I bought my 2nd tractor, that was one of the top 5 things that made me choose what I bought.

 

[redman135]

Re FEL lift capasity. ASK if the lift is measured at the bucket pins(looks good ,but artificial) or at 18' (approx front of bucket and REAL WORLD accurate lift numbers)

Old tractors like Ford 2000/3000 and MF 135 have small hydraulic pumps and slooww loader lift.Also low lift capasity. Very easy to work on.

Kubota in narrow track are very tippy, if you have wide enough trails/gates I recommend you widen the track for sideways stability. NOTE some tractors have 1 piece rims and don't adjust and others will have 2 piece rims to allow track adjust ment. Makes a surprising amount of difference.

 

[etpm]

I have 10 or 12 acres but only about 2 of that is cleared and maintained. My tractor is a 1980 Yanmar YM2310. It is only 2WD and I have rarely wished for 4WD. It has 23 HP at the PTO. I have Yanmar 5 foot wide tiller and the tractor has no problem powering it. The tractor has a "Power Shift" transmission which means I can change gears or change into reverse without using the clutch. The tractor has a 5 speed transmission that must be shifted using the clutch and this feeds the Power Shift transmission which has 3 speeds. So I have a 15 speed tractor. The tractor also has a FEL. Do not even consider a tractor without a FEL. The FEL is unbelievably useful. So you need one. And don't consider buying one later, get a tractor with one. You will not regret it. My Yanmar is a Grey Market machine but there are parts available and Yanmar tractors have a great reputation. My tractor is a beast for its size and I use at least once a week.
Eric

 

[Texasmark]

As posted, I have a 20 HP and 84 HP and 5 more of varying HP in between. All 7 have their assigned task. Size your tractor for the upper end of the required task...If an implement is rated for 45 HP, get a 45 HP tractor. Have to be careful overpowering gear boxes...like on shredders....as the gearbox rating is there for a reason......BTDT

 

[JorgePR]

I can not tell you what you could buy but, perhaps by reading what I use may help with your endeavor I have 3 acres just outside city of San Antonio, TX northeast corner. Very rocky and wooded with mesquite, oak, cedar and various other trees. Topography fairly flat, I do have a lawn tractor (JD D160) for mowing chores about 3/4 acre. I maintain about 1 acre with a Kubota 2008 B2620 4WD HST at first w/FEL later I added a QA to the FEL and added pallet folks very useful specially when moving piles of branches and other things around the yard. Done some grading for walkways, cleared extra area for usable yard. Move furniture added a hitch adapter and move a 16ft trailer, pull/push an old 1956 in and out of garage. Use as a high platform with a pallet on the folks (about 8+/- ft to reach branches for cutting etc…) added recently a 3rd function to the loader and added a small grapple better at picking up debris. Mostly all add-ons due to health issues. Machine very reliable on change batteries, fuel, oil, hydraulic filters and keep it greased.

 

[JTKub]

It's a case by case basis. You have to evaluate each unit. You can have a 200hr machine that was beat to death and not cared for or a 2000hr unit that was babied and over maintained.

I can't imagine spending $10K on an older fixer-upper, but if it's something that costs $30K+ new, I get it.

 

[Torvy]

The lift capacity should always be measured at the pins for comparisons. That way it is consistent. Also look at the lift height. When I got my machine, it was typically lifting 6-12" higher than the competition and with more weight. I real-world terms, that means more grunt along the whole curve. Most of your lifting is going to be a swag in terms of the actual pounds. Staying well within the capacity will give you fewer problems than pushing the limits regularly.

 

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So the last post of the op was July 6.
He has not returned with any mindset whatsoever.
He joined to post this one question and got a slew of answers that we have no clue which were pertinent or not
I’d say he went on his merry way and did what he wanted to do.
More power to and I hope good luck!

 

[WinterDeere]

... or he bought a tractor, rolled it, and is now unable to type.

 

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... or he bought a tractor, rolled it, and is now unable to type.

You devil you