Clamp On Ripper Tooth?

[Diggin It]

We've seen:

1. Clamp on pallet forks for FEL buckets. Most seem to work well enough for the target uses.
2. Clamp on spade for FEL buckets. Some say they work great for digging small holes.
3. Ripper claws/teeth for backhoes. They replace the bucket, which means swapping out based on task.

So, how about adapting the above? A clamp on ripper tooth to attach to the backhoe bucket? Dig with the bucket normally when pulling a stump, but if you encounter a tough root, clamp the tooth on to break the root, then take it off to go back to digging. Much easier than swapping the bucket and tooth at the pins.

Could the attachment clamp withstand the forces applied? More or less than the clamp on bucket spades?

 

[MESSMAKER]

I doubt it would work without some stellar engineering.

 

[4570Man]

A backhoe really isn’t designed for off center load for the first problem. Even if you did get the setup to work it would be easier to just grab a sawzall. The last and biggest problem is you’d loose so much leverage with the ripper suck below the bucket you’d probably be better off to just use the bucket.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

Interesting thought.....
My first thoughts were of a 3 point sub soil shank.... Use the shank on the 3 point for some preliminary cuts in the ground..

Then move the shank to an adaptor on something like a pallet fork frame on the FEL.... I'm thinking with the shank point facing the tractor to pull with the FEL rather than push it through the ground.. This thinking being less stress on the loader...

I need to get out my "good idea" note and sketch book and work on this...

 

[PILOON]

Well I did make a 'clamp on' tooth for my FEL
Used an old truck axle about 16" long and DIY'd a dual clamp affair much like clamp on forks.

I'd drive the 'tooth' at an angle under the roots of shrubs and small saplings and then pop them up and out. Curling my bucket with the heel on the ground worked like a charm.
Best yet is most times the roots came clean.

An improvement might be dual pointed 'prongs' spaced about 6" apart but still in the 12 -16 length and fairly sharp.
Now this is but for sapling sized stock and not mature trees.

 

[Diggin It]

I had to see if the idea would even work at all. Subsoiler is just lashed to the BH bucket with steel cable. Worked better than I expected for a first try, but I need to find a quicker, simpler, more secure method. This would be annoying to do to snap a root or two while digging a stump.

I also would like to find a sawtooth edged wedge to bolt on, more like what some of the factory root rippers have.

This should also work for cutting a narrow trench for conduit in place where you can't really back in and drive out. You'd be able to set up and reach in between things.

Slot is almost a foot deep and I could have gone a bit deeper.

 

[Doughknob]

I think i'd rather have a carbide toothed chainsaw for roots....

 

[GeneV]

We've seen:

1. Clamp on pallet forks for FEL buckets. Most seem to work well enough for the target uses.
2. Clamp on spade for FEL buckets. Some say they work great for digging small holes.
3. Ripper claws/teeth for backhoes. They replace the bucket, which means swapping out based on task.

So, how about adapting the above? A clamp on ripper tooth to attach to the backhoe bucket? Dig with the bucket normally when pulling a stump, but if you encounter a tough root, clamp the tooth on to break the root, then take it off to go back to digging. Much easier than swapping the bucket and tooth at the pins.

Could the attachment clamp withstand the forces applied? More or less than the clamp on bucket spades?

Yup, I got a guy on youtube who did just that:

 

[deezler]

Oh dang. I kinda really like this idea. My new-to-me TLB came with a 16" bucket on the backhoe. Nice compromise of a size, but frankly a little wide for de-stumping given the low power and lightweight nature of my machine (Kioti CK3510se).

So something really narrow for ripping roots with much more concentrated force would be awesome. But swapping backhoe buckets on a daily basis is pretty much out of the question.

As for the video above, I do sorta wonder if that guy could have gotten the tree down just as fast by simply using his backhoe bucket. That was a little tree, after all.

My thought process for toppling a tree, or getting a stump out would probably be: Use your stock backhoe bucket first, to see how far you can easily get on digging up the rootball. Then slip the ripper on, and go to town. Once you've ripped everything you can find or reach, take it off, and finish the job on regular bucket again.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

I’ve seen thumbs modified to carry a tooth. But, most places I’ve lived the “soils” are rocks and Cobbles, with a bit of sand filling what little bit of voids are left. So, teeth on buckets are a base requirement.

Locally most mini excavators have a quick-attach bucket system on them. Wuou can switch buckets in a few minutes. Particularly if you have a bucket rack on your trailer. Everything in the local rental fleet comes with two buckets, unless you tell them you only want one. You can ask for the narrow 12-inch bucket or a 24-inch. The 12-inch is most commonly used. ;Most commonly folks are digging in prehistoric river bars, and the rock and non cohesive soils meant that a 5-foot deep trench will end up with 2:1 side slopes.

The rocks make things very unstable.

 

[GeneV]

Oh dang. I kinda really like this idea. My new-to-me TLB came with a 16" bucket on the backhoe. Nice compromise of a size, but frankly a little wide for de-stumping given the low power and lightweight nature of my machine (Kioti CK3510se).

So something really narrow for ripping roots with much more concentrated force would be awesome. But swapping backhoe buckets on a daily basis is pretty much out of the question.

As for the video above, I do sorta wonder if that guy could have gotten the tree down just as fast by simply using his backhoe bucket. That was a little tree, after all.

My thought process for toppling a tree, or getting a stump out would probably be: Use your stock backhoe bucket first, to see how far you can easily get on digging up the rootball. Then slip the ripper on, and go to town. Once you've ripped everything you can find or reach, take it off, and finish the job on regular bucket again.

He was just testing it out, it was his 1st run with it. He's got another vid of him digging roots with it.

 

[deezler]

Locally most mini excavators have a quick-attach bucket system on them. Wuou can switch buckets in a few minutes. Particularly if you have a bucket rack on your trailer. Everything in the local rental fleet comes with two buckets, unless you tell them you only want one. You can ask for the narrow 12-inch bucket or a 24-inch. The 12-inch is most commonly used. ;Most commonly folks are digging in prehistoric river bars, and the rock and non cohesive soils meant that a 5-foot deep trench will end up with 2:1 side slopes.

Yeah whenever I rent an excavator (bobcat E35) I ask for both buckets, 12" and 24". 12" for tree work, 24" for grading work. Sometimes I can tap the pins right out and swap buckets in 5 minutes. Other times, (maybe on unlevel ground?) I have to keep re-positioning the dipper stick and bucket angles, and use a sledgehammer to bash the pins in and out. It can be a real pain.

 

[deezler]

How about another idea. What if you just bolted on a ripper shank to the side of your bucket? Not sure if it would hang down far enough, though. And also it is obviously not real cool to severely side-load your bucket attachment pins and backhoe arms, but.

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[Diggin It]

Side of the bucket would be a problem for offset torque and twisting, plus I don't want to drill any holes. The subsoiler is already sort of a ripper shank and can be centered and supported by that center tooth.

I just need to work out a faster, easier way to mount and dismount for temporary use. A sturdy muffler/exhaust clamp might work over that center tooth, but I still have to come up with a way to secure the top. I'm thinking about a piece of pipe or electrical strut cut to fit snugly inside the bucket. I'd rig it up to accept a toplink pin through the subsoiler and some 'L' brackets and large c clamps to the sides of the bucket.

 

[DieselBound]

I know that there are single ripper shank attachments for excavators.

I've cut roots with a sawzall once. It was in a fence post hole and I'd hit a root and didn't want to shift the hole. Other than that I rent an excavator to deal with anything "stump." The forces needed to be exerted are high, and commercial grade stuff is hard to beat (literally and figuratively).

I'd used the ripper shanks on a box blade to chisel away at roots. I've done a lot of crazy things. Don't bother trying to do this anymore, though it did work, albeit slowly: no longer have that box blade; it was for my B7800; wouldn't even think of trying with my Kioti and the 7' box blade.

 

[deezler]

BACKHOE RIPPER TOOTH | miemachinerydivision

www.miemachinery.com

https://f1faee7e-71cf-4c0a-8e79-6d71631cea03.filesusr.com/ugd/997cdd_0590ab84127a41f484940b4dd9540ed8.pdf

Not cheap. At All.

 

[oosik]

I seldom need any form of ripper. However - when I do ......... tear down my single bottom moldboard plow. End up with a very capable single shank ripper.

It's forty years old - made by Pittsburg Mfg Co.

 

[check]

Get a ripper tooth with a quick attach, from either Bro-Tek, or bxpanded.com. I have Bro-Tek one, and I can switch buckets in a matter of seconds

 

[deezler]

I see that bro tek makes back hoe accessories, but they sure do hide them on their web site. Can't find them. BX only makes them for Kubota and Deere, looks like.

 

[check]

I see that bro tek makes back hoe accessories, but they sure do hide them on their web site. Can't find them. BX only makes them for Kubota and Deere, looks like.

Wow, that is unfortunate. Here is what they sold me for my 2009 Kubota BX25;