Clearing saw advice?

[wotalota]

I have what by these forums will be a minor job but big enough for me of cutting down and disposing of small trees perhaps up to 2 1/2 inch trunks and some brush. About an acre worth on a wet somewhat rocky hillside to stop it getting out of hand. I can't (dare not) get the tractor in there but will use a DR cutter where I can.

So I'm going to get a clearing saw or higher end brush cutter. Looking at alternatives to Stihl and Husky to keep the price down. I had decided on a Tanaka TBC-600 @ $670 but the order was rejected because that model has been discontinued. No replacement yet announced. I am looking on ebay if something there might work out.

If I buy new does anyone have experience using the Shindaiwa C344 with a 34cc hybrid 4 engine. The price looks attractive at around $440 and there is a local dealer. Will it be strong enough to not struggle doing the kind of maintenance I'm looking to do?

 

[whistlepig]

Maybe I was doing it all wrong but I never cared for brush cutters with saw blades. The saw blade on the brush cutter was constantly getting pinched by the sapling and I would have to lay everything down to free the blade. For me a chain saw was easier. After owning 2 cycle brush cutters for decades I bought a Stihl 4 mix this past summer. I much prefer the 4 mix. A lot more torque.

 

[wotalota]

I didn't know what a clearing saw was until looking it up after seeing it mentioned here a few days ago. Then looking at some of the youtube videos of people using them and just knocking over decent size saplings made it look like just the thing. Seemed so much more efficient than getting down with a chain saw each time and reaching in under overhanging twigs. I am planning on using the chain saw for the older growth, but all the smaller trees and bushes were more intimidating until coming across the mention of a clearing saw.

 

[yellowdogsvc]

I owned a stihl FS550. High dollar. It was productive but for the money I don't think it was all that fast and blade wore out quickly. It was heavy, hard to start.. not in pulling but awkward when it was on the harness. It was nice, though, and I miss it but at nearly $1,200 loppers or a cheaper knockoff weedwhacker with saw blade would do good.

 

[robbyr]

I have a Husqvarna ( what I've always called weedeaters, now there are all kinda names) that can put a saw blade on. So far have only used the little three bladed cutters on small stuff. I saw online last year there is a circular blade with what looks like a chainsaw chain around it. Not for sure but think it was called beaver blade. Also bought a DR brushcutter in 2010 and used it to cut mesquites up to 2" diameter and ten feet tall (waited for some regrowth to spray). Have to say I was pretty impressed with the DR. Good luck

 

[Coyote machine]

I have a Husqvarna ( what I've always called weedeaters, now there are all kinda names) that can put a saw blade on. So far have only used the little three bladed cutters on small stuff. I saw online last year there is a circular blade with what looks like a chainsaw chain around it. Not for sure but think it was called beaver blade. Also bought a DR brushcutter in 2010 and used it to cut mesquites up to 2" diameter and ten feet tall (waited for some regrowth to spray). Have to say I was pretty impressed with the DR. Good luck

Yes it is called a Beaver blade, and it does have a chainsaw chain wrapped around a circular saw 'blade' base. It can be sharpened and the chain can be replaced, and several companies manufacturer these type of blades. I like to call it a circ saw on a stick. I agree with those who don't like the heavy and unwieldy larger cc engine weed eaters. I also have a DR Brush cutter with the 15 HP Kawasaki engine, and a steel blade that will cut down up to 3.5-4" saplings. Its good to use on level ground but dangerous on a steep hill at times.
I would invest my money in a high quality saw instead of trying to be cheap and buy junk. Note my signature below. Stihl and other similar brands are money well spent, otherwise go to Home Depot and buy a throwaway saw.

 

[wotalota]

Not wanting to find the lowest cost there are $200 40cc to choose from on ebay. On the other hand the biggest commercial unit is not needed. Looking to select a quality, reliable easy to start machine with an appropriate power weight ratio for my use. Below is the list I'm working from with approximate pricing I have seen recommendations for all four brands. Shindaiwa have 20% off later this month.

Stihl:
FS250 $610+ 14 lbs, 40 cc
FS310 $590+ 16 lbs, 36 cc
-----------------
FS360 C-E $950 19 lbs, 38 cc
FS460 C-EM $1150 19 lbs, 45 cc
FS560 C-EM $1400 23 lbs, 57 cc

Husqvarna:
336FR $600 16 lbs 35 cc
345FR $750 18 lbs, 45 cc
-----------
555FX $1050 20 lbs, 55 cc

Tanaka: psep.biz
TBC-340PFD $480 16 lbs, 32 cc
TBC-430PF $550 19 lbs, 40 cc
---------------
TBC-600 $670 20 lbs, 47 cc discontinued!

Shindaiwa: Bought by Echo. hybrid 4 (2/4 stroke), 72" overall
C282 $460 16 lbs 29 cc commercial grade
C344 $440 16 lbs, 34 cc

 

[wotalota]

I went with a top end brushcutter the Husqvarna 345FR. Hoping that it has enough power and characteristics of a clearing saw and not too heavy/slow running to avoid some of the issues you have mentioned.
Thanks for the responses.
/Tom

 

[Furu]

I have both Stihl FS450 and FS250 Brushcutters. I run them both with either a carbide (non-Stihl) chisel blade or a brush knife blade which is a three blade device that is great on anything up to 3 to 3.5 inches. Above that I use the chisel blades. The FS250 is in most cases more than adequate but there are times that I need the power of the FS450. (Stihl has modified this to the 460 I think now). I used to use the Stihl chisel blades but while they are a great quality steel they have to be sharpened at times. I found the carbide tip chisel blade and it does not need sharpening but if you strike metal the carbide tips shred off and I find that after 25% of them are gone it is time to replace the blade. Convenience is why I switched to the carbide even though when they are damaged they can't be sharpened like the others

Your description of what you are looking at is a great target for either of these units. Buy Stihl you will not regret it.

I just noticed that you bought a Husky. It should do you well

 

[whistlepig]

Looks like an excellent unit. I don't think you can go wrong with a Husky. I was reading about the X-Torq engine on this cutter. Sounds like the right kind of engine for the work you are wanting to do.

 

[Scooby074]

I went with a top end brushcutter the Husqvarna 345FR. Hoping that it has enough power and characteristics of a clearing saw and not too heavy/slow running to avoid some of the issues you have mentioned.
Thanks for the responses.
/Tom

For your use, I think you'll be fine. Then once the heavy brush is gone, you'll have a true heavy duty brush cutter to keep that area under control.

I have a Husky 252Rx and its been a great unit for keeping alders under control. It has no issues on 2.5" "trees" , Ive cut down 6" softwoods without problems. Its a few cc's bigger than yours, but you should be ok. Once you use a proper spacing saw, with the proper harness, you'll be impressed. I regularly run a trimmer head and grass blade (tri blade) on mine. It just bows through the heavy grass and light brush.

 

[tree farmer]

I'm a little late with this, but something for others to consider: Has anyone tried a pole saw? I tried many different brush cutters and blades, but none were working for me. Then I bought a Stihl FS110R trimmer with a brush blade and a pole pruner attachment for it that takes about a minute to swap around. The FS110R is Stihl's lightest commercial unit and has a straight shaft and a loop handle, making it easy to use in the brush and timber. On my timberland, I am constantly brushing around seedlings and young trees with the brush blade and limbing the lower branches on the bigger stuff 10' above the ground. Here on the coast, things grow quickly and at 65 years old, I gotta look for easier ways to get things done. I've used this combo for a couple years now, and never regretted it. When all the brush is on the ground, I use the mini excavator with a thumb to pile it and either chip or burn it. Amazing how much you can get done with the right tools...Dan.

 

[whistlepig]

I think a pole pruner would work. The way it works for me with a brush cutter and a saw blade is that I strap these beasts on to myself with a harness. Then I put two hands on the handle bars. And then the saw gets pinched in the sapling. So there I am strapped into a harness, both hands on the handle bars, and stuck in a tree. I kill the brush cutter, unhook the harness, lay the brush cutter down, and un-pinch the saw. Then I pick up the brush cutter, hook up to the harness, start the motor, and then repeat this process a few minutes later. Brush cutters work great on brush for me. But when it comes to 2"-3" saplings a chain saw is much easier for me.

 

[Coyote machine]

Whistlepig,
Here's what works for me, with a pole pruner. I happen to use an ECHO, and it works great for me. I got a 12" bar, up from the 10, and I cut the sapling at an angle several feet above the ground and then go in and make the final cut, so there is no chance of getting stuck by a binding/leaning sapling. Same if limbing I undercut first, enough that the top cut won't bind, and done.