Container Weld Shop build -

   / Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#181  
Moving (sorta) right along - Tightened the bars down with short bolts while welding the nuts inside the tubes -

Closer view -

Further back -

Before and after running a 5/8-11 tap thru all 8 holes to clean up threads -

And a couple shots of the sliders mounted on the heavier I beam -


Anybody catch my latest boo-boo yet? in the last pic, the welds are too close to the holes in the lower plates for nuts and washers to sit flat :confused: - I was trying to keep those holddown bars as far apart as possible and still fit the factory plates on the top of the posts - so I (correctly) left enough room for nuts/washers at the ends of the tubes... Then I INCORRECTLY forgot to NOT weld across the tube ends :rolleyes: - I think it's called "LABTYD" - as in, Life's A *****, Then You Die...

Seems like it's always my NICER welds that end up havin' to go bye-bye :drool:

The GOOD news (sorta) - just stick a 1-1/16" cutter in the mag drill and "kiss" each end, centered on the holes - might even look like I PLANNED it that way - Any dissenting opinions on that should re-read my very first sentence in my very first post in this thread/odd-isy :laughing:

That's it fer now, I'm 'bout done for the night... Steve

OK, tried a different approach on the pics - same order (maybe), but all together :confused:

DSCN3097.JPGDSCN3098.JPGDSCN3099.JPGDSCN3100.JPGDSCN3101.JPGDSCN3102.JPGDSCN3103.JPG
 
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   / Container Weld Shop build - #182  
I didn't catch your latest boo-boo, because the pictures didn't post. :mad:
 
   / Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#183  
Sorry 'bout that; I did it same as always and it didn't seem to work, so I added some spaces and it looked OK. Seems to be OK now, crossed fingers... Steve
 
   / Container Weld Shop build - #184  
Anybody catch my latest boo-boo yet? <<<<<<<<<<<Yes it was terrible, how could you, it's the worst mistake ever, I never seen anything like it, Oh the humanity of it all.............The color is totally wrong.
 
   / Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#185  
I know; I'm just sooooo ashamed :confused:

Guess I'll just hafta SCRAP this whole project and start over - hmmmm, wonder what kinda welder cart I should do THIS time??!? :D ...Steve
 
   / Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#186  
On second thought, who said ya can't put lipstick on a pig??!? :laughing:

DSCN3104.JPGDSCN3105.JPG


Fixed the previously mentioned boo-boo easier than I thought; those holes only get 1/2" bolts (the HF supplied ones will be replaced with Grade 8's) so all it took was a few gentle "kisses" with a cutoff disk held flat against the flat bars those tubes are welded to - I'll put locks and nuts on THAT side, and the bigger FLAT washers on the thinner (HF "industrial duty") side (the top plates of the uprights)

DSCN3106.JPG

Over the primer with satin black -

DSCN3107.JPGDSCN3108.JPG


It's only about 52* out, so I'll leave the quartz heater on 'em til after supper ('bout 3 hours), then they'll have a few days to finish curing out while I get the I beam prepped for paint... Steve
 
   / Container Weld Shop build - #187  
("Guess I'll just hafta SCRAP this whole project and start over")<<<<<<<<That's the great thing about welding steel together, with the right tooling it can be taken apart for a do-over with minimal effort. Are you familiar with carbon arc gouging? Works real good taking stuff apart when something has alot of weld on it, and if done right it just leaves slight scar that can be filled back in with weld if need be. The down fall is it's tremendously smokey and loud.
 
   / Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#188  
Yeah, they did a lot of carbon arc at work, mostly scrapping old stuff; you ain't kidding about the smoke and noise, they used to try and get gouging done on dark shifts - less people around to set on fire :laughing:

One of the "goodies" my pre-retirement forced overtime produced was a Hypertherm PM45 plasma, got gouging tips for that - it's a LOT quieter, and almost "surgical" if you crank the power down a bit - I used that to gouge off the HF (too thin) hitch receivers I had on the loader of the 580B - no burn-thru, just a TINY bit of flap wheel and it was ready for the new 1/4" wall receivers...

Well I wasn't too thrilled with the Krylon primer I used the other day, the cover coat kept wanting to "slip off" and leave reddish marks; had to go back and touch up several places... so I found Rustoleum "rusty metal primer" (works on clean metal too) on Amazon for $3.98 a 12 oz. can, ordered 8 cans - some of that'll get used on the HF crane's upsized I beam, but the paint won't be here for at least a week :thumbdown: - so I spent today puttin' a few more LED shop lights under the small container roof, lot better vision there now.

While I'm waitin' fer paint, I'll get back on the weld cart, get the floor mat and aluminum trim on it and it'll be (semi) done for now. I did find the full-suspension drawer glides I knew I had, but I think I'm gonna hold off on that drawer til I get some hood time with ANOTHER "OT goodie" - I've had this
Power i-TIG 2T - TIG Welders | Everlast Generators

For over 2 YEARS now, haven't plugged it IN yet :eek: - been too busy runnin' WIRE on projects so far. Guess I better check it out BEFORE the 5 year warranty runs out :rolleyes: First (and last) time I tigged anything wuz about 1974, thinkin' I'm gonna be just a tad rusty :D

Once I get around to adding a bottle of tri-mix I have some stainless scraps I'll use to tig up a "flip-top" chimney cap, had a big stainless SALAD BOWL over the chimney for about 10 years, gettin' to be a pain to get it off to knock the creosote down into the cleanout so a "flip-top" seems like a better plan...

Supper's here, time to do sumthin' IM-POTENT :licking: ...Steve
 
   / Container Weld Shop build - #189  
("Well I wasn't too thrilled with the Krylon primer I used the other day, the cover coat kept wanting to "slip off" and leave reddish marks; had to go back and touch up several places... so I found Rustoleum "rusty metal primer" (works on clean metal too) on Amazon for $3.98 a 12 oz. can, ordered 8 cans - some of that'll get used on the HF crane's upsized I beam, but the paint won't be")

Well you know when Krylon prime get 30 years old it sould thrown out. Doesn't Rust Oleum make special triggers to use on those spray cans, it might save ware on your trigger finger so you can still type out responses to you fan club.

That tig machine looks great, sound like no scratching to start the arc. I tried to pass the tig test five years ago, did the best I could, the weld came out nice but failed the die test, they wanted to know if I wanted a do over, after 4 weeks of tigging I had enough, to slow of a process for me plus my good eye sight is not so good as it was 20 years ago. The people who tig weld has what I call raw talent.

I use to have a turn stile cap on my chimney, ran a 1/2" rod 16' down along side the chimney, when I wasn't using the stove I'd turn the lever and no rain came down it.
My new SS pipe chimney I made a fixed cap out a discontinued SS grill panel, have it on double wall SS chimney pipe, it looks like an upside down box above the chimney pipe, around 12"x12" with 2" in sides, couple angle bars clamp to pipe hold it up and those are welded to the cap box.

But I just wonder if a fixed cap degreases draft, not sure but my sove once it gets going it heats great.
 
   / Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#190  
Yeah, this red Krylon was less than a year old, when I went lookin' there were OTHER complaints like mine :mad: - we'll see how the Rustoleum does - I think I've seen those trigger things, but my MAIN gripe is that almost NOBODY has a real FAN spray tip on their rattle cans anymore - Krylon DID, then they QUIETLY did away with it and didn't say anything :thumbdown: - only reason I still use their newer paint is that they haven't changed their CAN, just the nozzle - so I'm hoarding the older, GOOD FAN SPRAY nozzles. Each one seems to be good for 4-5 cans before it's shot, and you can actually get a finish that DOESN'T look like you just threw buckets of paint at it...

The Tig/stick machine doesn't do AC, but I'm not really into aluminum or magnesium, the only two common metals you need AC for - also, the Hi Freq on this one is NOT a mechanical spark gap like a lot of 'em, so there's nothing to adjust. Once I get started using it I'll probly end up getting a cooler and a water cooled torch, but not til I get some hood time on it...

When I get to it, my new chimney cap will have the low side (and hinge) on the windy side, should help draw some with the airplane/Bernouli? effect - that salad bowl (it actually WAS one) is stood off high enough so the bottom of it's maybe an inch above the top of the chimney pipe - draws OK, but would've been better if the guy that put that chimney in understood draft; it's 8" ID, shoulda been 6". He also didn't make it TALL enough, but he'd used 30" sections of triple wall so I found 36" sections and replaced 'em - that gained 1-1/2 feet which helped it draw better...

I got sidetracked a little today, remember the "tinker toys" I talked about in post#71?
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...531642-container-weld-shop-build-dscn2875-jpg

Well, here's one use - Front bucket set up for moving full bundles of steel - then rear stabilizer, and a sketch of the (yet to build) insert for rear stabilizer -

DSCN3109.JPGDSCN3110.JPGSteelCarryRear.JPG

My steel supplier delivers on the road, so those 2 hooks sitting in the FEL bucket go in the two upper outside receivers - those and a couple 6' straps and I pick the load, sign and he drives off - but MOST of my driveway is NOT 25' wide, so in order to get the bundle down to the shop (100' driveway) the load needs to be PARALLEL to the tractor - I made a couple of "log bunk" add-ons for 2 of my jack stands, so I can set the bundle on those, then drive up alongside the bundle so those "sidewinder" arms (see pics) go UNDER the load - when both front and rear are in position, I raise the bucket and the stabilizer and I pick up the load LENGTHWISE (BESIDE the TLB.)

That lets me get it down the driveway to the shop area and put at least 3' of the bundle into the container - Then I set the front end of the bundle on one of the car dollies, put a jack stand under the BACK end of the bundle, lower that stabilizer and back out from under - Now I can pick up the back end of the load with the FRONT arm, and as soon as I get it pushed just over halfway into the container I can "pick" the load with the (eventually completed) bridge crane.

Worst exercise I'll get once this is all done is moving a jack stand or two, and getting on/off the tractor a few times. This situation is called "Happy Steve" :D

For now though, that sketch is all there is til I get some of the current operations done; I just didn't wanna forget my plan so I drew it up while I was still thinking about it... Steve
 
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