Control valve rebuild

[jpilk99]

I hope I am using the correct term above. I have an '83 Ford 1700 with 770 loader and the 2-lever control for raising/lowering bucket as well as rolling the back forward/back. In my manual it says this part # is DV23FATS005 or 23FATS2P4KA. The lever that controls the roll of the bucket has been acting up over the last year, where I'll be driving along - not touching lever(s) and it will start to 'engage', rolling the bucket (up I think). I'd frequently have to push the lever to get it to stop. I finally tied a bungy cord around it to keep it in place.

I'd prefer to not swap out the entire valve setup as I'm told I can rebuild it. Has anyone done this? How difficult is it?

It seems like a perfect time to take the valve off and rebuild/repair as I'm putting on all new hydro lines/hoses; as well as a bunch of other maintenance items. Just want to keep this great machine running well.

Thanks in advance!!!

Jay

 

[JC-jetro]

jay,

Loader control valve/ loader spool valve are all the same. I do not have loader on my 1700 so never have done it. Saying that and I am interested how you'll end up fixing it. I will try to research it some as well. Make sure document (pictures) your work carefully as you disassemble to be able to put it back in how you found it. You will have highly polished spools and valve body with a very close tolerances. The oil film causes the sealing action so any scratch mark can be bad. You can have buildup of junk in the ports that might need to be cleaned up. There will be shaft seals, o-rings to watch for . I think it is a doable project. perhaps guys have done it on 1700 or similar rig. This is not a problem that happens a lot as those valve are very robust. Just be careful with scratching the spool and the valve body. Share detailed picture and hopefully we can help. I Think the problem will be sourcing wearable parts matching the oem.

JC,

PS. Just attached breakdown of the control valve and the loader plumbing FYSA.

 

[PILOON]

Spool valves are basically not rebuildable as they depend on very close lapped finishes.
However replacing a spring or detent ball is possible.

 

[JC-jetro]

Just wondered if 2 spool control valve below can be the cure. Can't beat it for the price for sure. Worh a bit of researching or asking the vendor.

2 Spool Hydraulic Direction Control Valve Open Center 13 GPM 3600 PSI NEW! 854763008359 | eBay

---2 Spool monoblock valve ---Flow 13 GPM ---3600 PSI MAX Pressure ---Adjustable release valve ---Inlet port SAE 10 ---Outlet port SAE 10 ---Working ports SAE 8 ---4 Way 3 Positions ---Spring center to neutral all spools ---Durable cast iron body ---Fluid temperature from 5 to 176F ---Mounting...

www.ebay.com

 

[PILOON]

At that price (above on EBay) I don't see how U could go wrong.

 

[jpilk99]

Thanks everybody! Interestingly, the local 'tractor' dealer made it sound like an inexpensive repair/rebuild kit should do the trick. And I'm pretty handy with small engine repairs & such. But, the more I read everyone's comments, especially on the intricacies involved and tight tolerances etc. that I am probably just better off with a whole new valve setup. I believe the one on my machine is original which puts it around almost 40 years old.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks everybody! Interestingly, the local 'tractor' dealer made it sound like an inexpensive repair/rebuild kit should do the trick. And I'm pretty handy with small engine repairs & such. But, the more I read everyone's comments, especially on the intricacies involved and tight tolerances etc. that I am probably just better off with a whole new valve setup. I believe the one on my machine is original which puts it around almost 40 years old.

Just make sure to consult with the vendor to see if that 2 spool valve works before committing. 12 years ago I overhauled my hydraulic lift sytem along with the pump. All overhaul kit and complete hyd oil change was under $130 or so. The same is a lot more expensive ever with overhaul kit if available. Is he able to source overhaul kit for you 40 yr old valve? and how much? If the valve above works then you have all brand new valve. I don't believe overhaul kit if available includes spools.

JC,

 

[jpilk99]

Thanks JC. I did order the linked new valve, it will be here tomorrow. Will report back to this thread when done.

Oh, forgive me here: Is there any special "bleeding" process after I put on the new valve and all the hydro lines? I'm assuming I just make sure I have proper amount of Hydraulic fluid in the machine before I fire up the ol' girl...? What do folks think is the best Hydro fluid for these machines? Again, I'm running an '83 Ford 1700 with 770 loader.

Thank you!!!

Jay

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks JC. I did order the linked new valve, it will be here tomorrow. Will report back to this thread when done.

Oh, forgive me here: Is there any special "bleeding" process after I put on the new valve and all the hydro lines? I'm assuming I just make sure I have proper amount of Hydraulic fluid in the machine before I fire up the ol' girl...? What do folks think is the best Hydro fluid for these machines? Again, I'm running an '83 Ford 1700 with 770 loader.

Thank you!!!

Jay

Jay,

There is nothing special about bleeding as the main thing is that you do not want to run your hyd pump dry. The pump is a positive displacement gear pump so as long as there is an oil film on the gear it can suck the oil in. It can heat up fast and self destruct if oil is not available at the suction pipe and allow the pump to cavitate. A centrifugal pump cannot do that and needs priming for sure. The pump is just a bit lower than the oil level so the inlet pipe(larger dia) will be at least partially flooded. Make sure the inlets screen in the diffy is completely cleaned. I used a bit of diesel and a toothbrush to clean the stainless very fine mesh screen. Once you maintain solid flow thru the pump then cycling 3-point lift and loader valve will expel the air back to return line and then back to diffy that is atmospherically vented. It will just burp for a while till all the air is gone. I have changed the hyd fluid in my rig twice in the last 12 years and each time bought TSC house brand, Mystick or Traveler equal to Ford 134 and never had an issue. I would recommend it. i really encourage you change hyd fluid entirely.

JC

 

[jpilk99]

Thanks JC. Great info/help. I’ll flush all hydro fluid and replace. Where are the “inlet screens on the Diffy”?