Counterweight

   / Counterweight #21  
I'd be kinda concerned about level from side-to-side for hooking / unhooking. That could be addressed by levelling a small spot to place it on. As far as rotation, if the weight wasn't real big or way out of balance, just raise it slightly and rotate it to connect the toplink...............chim
 
   / Counterweight #22  
<font color=orange>.........digital camera (it's plumb dead).</font color=orange>

Sure you didn't shoot it, MrP?
anim_50cal.gif


You'll regret posting those icons, I bet. We'll wait for the pictures.
 
   / Counterweight #23  
<font color=blue>"Sure you didn't shoot it, MrP?"</font color=blue>

Naw, didn't shoot it. But I did think of taking the chain saw to it.

anim_chainsawkill.gif


Sorry.... I couldn't resist.
anim_devil.gif
 
   / Counterweight #24  
Here's a pic of my counterweight made with all the help received in this thread. The attachment point for the top link is a "U" shaped pc. of flatbar that came with my property that I cut down and drilled out. It rests on the bottom of the container and passes diagonally over the llower pins (welded to each other with 1" round stock). It should add some strength. The top link needs screwed in all the way, oh well. After hooking up the lower links I bumped up the counterweight until the holes lined up with the top link. I located the lower pins the way I did figuring that if the weight was back a little further from the rear wheels, it would add a little more leverage and seem heavier.

Thanks again for all the great ideas! Hope the pic comes out.

Fred

Oh, yeah, the concrete guys working on my building poured it for me while I was golfing. What more could you ask for?
 

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   / Counterweight
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Looks good to me! You have a little more 'crete than I used as it looked as though a fifth 80# sack wouldn't fit.

But as yours was probably filled from a truck that wasn't an issue.

Now whip out the utility knife and remove the tub.
 
   / Counterweight #26  
Thanks, Gary. Actually, I'll probably leave the tub on, even though it is kind of ugly. I figure it will act as a buffer zone and help prevent chipping or at least contain the chip if I bump it into something and also, my outbuilding and lean-to have dirt floors and right now the tub will slide around some to help position the pins. I'm not sure concrete would slide around as easily.
I had a full bucket of fill dirt in my Bota's 302 FEL and was just as stable as when I used my 60" RFM for counterweight (500+lbs). I'm hoping it will add winter traction, too. Slick idea.

Fred
 
   / Counterweight #27  
As a side thought, if he left the tub on, it would have a 'no-dammage' bottom... but then for a barn who cares right? I guess if he removed it, some nice concrete paint in a shade to match the tractor would be just as good, and he could still install some sort of rubber or felt pad feet on the bottom if he wanted to, etc.

Soundguy
 
   / Counterweight
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I removed the tub from mine for two reasons, neither of which may be worth anything.

1. I thought the tub would start to loosen up anyway.
2. As the tub was not filled to the top, rain water or worse would start to collect.

YMMV (Your milage may vary)
 

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