Couple of Harbor Freight QH questions

[TNhobbyfarmer]

OK thanks for the warning. I will continue to use the flex link when using the cutter on the QH. Sounds like the safe thing to do.

 

[Fallon]

You only need that top link to lift the mower, not when mowing. So chain is sufficient.

Very true. I had a hydraulic toplink & left it in float giving me lots of articulation. The toplink moved slow so I'd leave the flex link there. I moved the top hook to the bottom holes & would just flip the flex link into the hook. I think most people reconfifure things so it flexes behind the top bracketed when using a quick hitch. I just left the 6" flex bit in front dangling.
It would just pop out if the hook was any higher. It would actually pop out down low every so often. I wouldn't bother fixing it until I needed to road the machine or hang the mower over a ditch or something. I'd run it like that for hours with no ill effect.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

If someone gets a chance, please post a picture of how to chain a rotary cutter as an alternative to the flex link.

Fallon, could you explain what you mean by saying you leave a hydraulic top link in float. I have a HTL, but unfortunately I'm not totally understanding your last post.

 

[bcp]

Here's the first ones I found.

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Hot ! Tractor 3 Point Slasher Mower With Ce ; Rotary Slasher Mower Factory - Buy Tractor Pto Mower,Tractor Mounted Slasher Mower,3 Point Rotary Cutter With Chain Guard Product on Alibaba.com

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Maybe Chinese farmers prefer chains.

Bruce

 

[California]

If someone gets a chance, please post a picture of how to chain a rotary cutter as an alternative to the flex link.

I'm home in town so this ballast photo is the closest picture I have available. I use this chain to reach back and make a slack loop over the top of the mower's 3-point mast. And unpin the hook to swing it up out of the way. That's all there is to it, the slack chain loop is sufficient to go tight and raise the back of the mower when I raise the qhitch.

Next time I have the mower attached I'll take a photo but it's going to be a while. 5 to 15 inches of rain forecast for the next couple of days!

 

[mike69440]

OK thanks for the warning. I will continue to use the flex link when using the cutter on the QH. Sounds like the safe thing to do.

Good Idea!

 

[Fallon]

If someone gets a chance, please post a picture of how to chain a rotary cutter as an alternative to the flex link.

Fallon, could you explain what you mean by saying you leave a hydraulic top link in float. I have a HTL, but unfortunately I'm not totally understanding your last post.

My L3200 had a float detent for both top & side links. Just like your loader lift circuit. Put the valve in float & it would extend or retract as anything pulled or pushed on it.

To chain a rotary cutter just attach a piece of chain to the toplink bracket on the cutter then attach the other end to the tophook. Leave 6-10" of chain between. It just needs to be short enough so it will tighten up & lift the tail wheel off the ground when you lift the cutter.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

My L3200 had a float detent for both top & side links. Just like your loader lift circuit. Put the valve in float & it would extend or retract as anything pulled or pushed on it.

I did not know that TnT cylinders had float capability. How do you activate and deactivate?

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I did a little research last night. Learned that the float capability, or lack thereof, is a determined by the remote valve. Some have it some don't. My property where the tractor stays is a couple of hours away so I can't just go out and take a look. The lever that controls my one remote always returns to the neutral position after I activate it in one direction or the other. Best I remember, there is nothing in the lever area to indicate float capability.

The cylinder on my HTL does leak down after a period of time with a load, i.e., when i tilt the rotary cutter up, it will leak down until the tail wheel touches the ground. That indicates to me that the remote operating the HTL is in float. Any thoughts?

 

[Fallon]

Leak down is normal & just indicates your valve isn't perfect. Some TnT cylinders have check valves on them to prevent leak down. Those check valves have the side effect of disabling float even if your valve supports it.

 

[JRobyn]

Leak down would (should) be a very slow process, like over hours. Float operation is very quick (seconds).

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

Leak down would (should) be a very slow process, like over hours. Float operation is very quick (seconds).

This is what I am used to with my FEL. I notice very little to negligible leak down of my bucket or 3 point hitch. However, the leak down of my HTL cylinder is more like 15-30 mins. More than I would anticipate.

 

[Fallon]

This is what I am used to with my FEL. I notice very little to negligible leak down of my bucket or 3 point hitch. However, the leak down of my HTL cylinder is more like 15-30 mins. More than I would anticipate.

Lots of threads around here about that. The common cause is low quality valves letting that leak down happen. If you disconnect the QDs & it still leaks down while not attached to the valve it's obviously a cylinder issue.

Many people prefer those pilot valve cylinders. You need to apply significant hydraulic to the outside of the pilot valve for them to pop open. So they only let the cylinder move when you hit the lever. The drawback is a float valve won't let them float. I find float useful enough a piloted valve has never been an option for me. I also got good valves & cylinders from FitRite for that took a week to leak down on my L3200. Have OEM Kubota float valves on my new L4060, but yet to get the cylinders ordered with the tractor back before Thanksgiving. So I can't say anything about the OEM Kubota solution yet.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

Lots of threads around here about that. The common cause is low quality valves letting that leak down happen. If you disconnect the QDs & it still leaks down while not attached to the valve it's obviously a cylinder issue.

Many people prefer those pilot valve cylinders. You need to apply significant hydraulic to the outside of the pilot valve for them to pop open. So they only let the cylinder move when you hit the lever. The drawback is a float valve won't let them float. I find float useful enough a piloted valve has never been an option for me. I also got good valves & cylinders from FitRite for that took a week to leak down on my L3200. Have OEM Kubota float valves on my new L4060, but yet to get the cylinders ordered with the tractor back before Thanksgiving. So I can't say anything about the OEM Kubota solution yet.

I contacted Brian at FitRite regarding this issue. Here is his method of analysis to determine where the fault lies:

Lower the implement to the ground.
Retract the top link completely.
Unplug the top link hoses at the quick couplers.
Raise the 3pt hitch to lift the implement off of the ground.

If the top link extends on it's own, then there are bad seals in the top link and they need to be replaced.
If the top link stays retracted, then you have leakage at your control valve.

Many thanks to Brian. He is always and prompt with his help and advice. Wouldn't want to buy a TnT from anywhere other than FitRite.