Crazy idea?

[bmaverick]

On the YM2500 and other models like it along with the Deere JD850/950/1050 - - -


WIP, got to get better quality



Possible to glean info from any of this.

 

[etpm]

Not sure if I had posted this in the thread here - - -

This is the Yanmar OE PS system for YM machines

View attachment 715149

View attachment 715150

Though similar that is not the cylinder and valve that I have. Thanks for posting and clearing things up a little.
Eric

 

[bmaverick]

Though similar that is not the cylinder and valve that I have. Thanks for posting and clearing things up a little.
Eric

Ah you replied before I could finish. LOL

OK, next few posts coming.

 

[bmaverick]

OK, the YM2500 = JD850 & YM4300 = JD1050

Possible to glean more info - - -
high-res, just click and click to zoom in

 

[clemsonfor]

Not sure if I had posted this in the thread here - - -

This is the Yanmar OE PS system for YM machines

View attachment 715149

View attachment 715150

They have their hard hats on to be safe but the guy is standing close behind her where he is about to get taken out by that boxblade as it sweeps over as she turns.

 

[ponytug]

They have their hard hats on to be safe but the guy is standing close behind where where he is about to get taken out by that boxblade as it sweeps over as she turns.

I had the same thought...

 

[etpm]

Well phooey! I have had to give up on the power steering pump option. I found a pump from a Honda Civic that rotates the wrong way but was quite small, the smallest I could find. But I could still use it for sizing. And even this tiny pump is too long. It would touch the fuel lines coming from the injection pump. Can't have that! So I took the pump to a friend of mine to look at who owns an import car repair business and who coincidentally also owns a 2310 and who also wants power steering. He looked in his catalogs at non-Honda power steering pumps and was not able to find one shorter than the Civic pump.
So now I will go with the diverter valve that I already have. I need to talk with the seller to see if it is proportionally adjustable and to make sure that is has some sort of pressure relief so that the power steering system never sees more than 1800 PSI.
Reading about how dead heading hydraulic pumps can cause all sorts of damage a pressure relief valve is a must.
From reading here on TBN I think I can get a higher volume pump for my tractor if it turns out that the power steering uses so much oil when working properly that it slows the loader too much. Or if the power steering won't work at low RPM.
Even though I don't get to machine a new multi groove pulley and make a steering pump mount I will still get to make the rest of the stuff to mount the power steering cylinder. So I will still get to have fun with this project. And I'm sure I'll be asking more questions.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[California]

They have their hard hats on to be safe but the guy is standing close behind her where he is about to get taken out by that boxblade as it sweeps over as she turns.

And some PR firm posed those photos. She's cute but the way she's grasping the steering wheel with her wrist through the wheel instead of outside it, is something nobody who ever drove manual steering would do! Broken wrist if you hit something just right.

I've had the YM240 wheel spin uncontrollably when backing up and running a tire into something solid. I suspect that was how it had two cracked front wheels when I bought it.

Also with that PS on the YM186D, the palm of your hand on the center cap of the wheel is sufficient to steer it. There's never a need to get a tight grip on the rim.

 

[California]

Member California here can tell you the 'leaking' troubles with the OE design too.

[The first, dealer-installed PS version shown in the brochure with the cutie modeling it].

Yeah. See how the steering drag link comes forward to push a hydraulic control, that then sends fluid in front of or behind the fixed piston?

There's an air vent hole on top, in front of the tiny piston in the control part. In the photo, top front.

When the tiny control piston's o-ring gets worn, hydraulic fluid sprays out of that vent hole when you turn left. I tore down the PS on the bench but couldn't find a way to hold the entire aluminum assembly in the vise without distorting it, while I fought the nut that has to come off the back of that control piston. I applied as much force as I dared on that irreplaceable aluminum casting, no luck.

I then got a second entire assembly that just needed the seal for the large piston replaced. That was easy. There is occasional trivial dribble from the control piston vent hole but not enough for an oil spot on the barn floor. Good enough.

Some day I'll make a wooden cradle for the original assembly so I can clamp it securely in the vise, and overhaul it. Someday.

This third-party US-made dealer option PS simply isn't up to Yanmar quality. It works great but it doesn't have the durability and simple maintenance that make Yanmar so great.

 

[npalen]

Probably too late for this suggestion, but wondering if you considered mounting a PS pump to the backside of the alternator and in line axially with it. Would require a hole in the backside of the alternator and then a shaft extension/connector to the pump. May not be feasible but just thought I'd throw it out there.

Edit--Picture shows the backside of a Kubota alternator or "dynamo" as they call it. I replaced this one thinking it was bad but turned out to be the regulator IIRC.

 

[bmaverick]

Probably too late for this suggestion, but wondering if you considered mounting a PS pump to the backside of the alternator and in line axially with it. Would require a hole in the backside of the alternator and then a shaft extension/connector to the pump. May not be feasible but just thought I'd throw it out there.

Edit--Picture shows the backside of a Kubota alternator or "dynamo" as they call it. I replaced this one thinking it was bad but turned out to be the regulator IIRC.

Oh my, this is a flash back. some of those Japan cars form the 60s and 70s had those combo alternator and PS setups. And some were even alternator and water-pump setups.

 

[etpm]

Probably too late for this suggestion, but wondering if you considered mounting a PS pump to the backside of the alternator and in line axially with it. Would require a hole in the backside of the alternator and then a shaft extension/connector to the pump. May not be feasible but just thought I'd throw it out there.

Edit--Picture shows the backside of a Kubota alternator or "dynamo" as they call it. I replaced this one thinking it was bad but turned out to be the regulator IIRC.

I did look at anywhere and everyehere to put the pump. Your suggestion won't work because there is a big coolant hose that curls directly behind the alternator. This hose connects to both the water pump and the block. I also considered going up high enough to clear the fuel lines but going up that high would require some pretty long pump mounting structure parts which would require some extra bracing and fitting in that bracing would require using more mounting points and the whole thing was starting to resemble a Rube Goldberg construction. I wanted a fairly simple and elegant setup. It now looks like to get closest to that I will need use the tractor hydraulics.
Eric

 

[etpm]

The aftermarket cylinder and valve combo that I bought does not have that nice looking cast valve. It is just a block of aluminum with a bunch of holes machined in it. That's probably better because it has nice square sides to clamp in a vise if that ever needs to be done.
Eric

 

[bmaverick]

The aftermarket cylinder and valve combo that I bought does not have that nice looking cast valve. It is just a block of aluminum with a bunch of holes machined in it. That's probably better because it has nice square sides to clamp in a vise if that ever needs to be done.
Eric

For a coolant system, make certain NOT to mix aluminum and copper(bronze and brass too) component materials in the liquid. Doing so would induce galvanic corrosion. Domestic OEs had issues back in the 90s as their OE stuff went fully aluminum, yet the aftermarket parts were copper/brass. Soon, people were blaming the OEs for the mess, but it turned out to be the aftermarket using the copper in their parts.

Anytime I've working on a vehicle or machine with liquid cooling, it's always best to review these components. If not, that ugly browse sludge will kill the radiator and water pump so fast and the engine overheats. In worse cases, the tubes in the radiator completely gunk up.

And the coolants today called 'long life' are worse for our machines. Those coolants are engineered for all aluminum coolant systems, thus the corrosion inhibitor additives are 1% vs. 10% in the old school green coolants.

I didn't touch on the original GM dexcool problem that is a different brown/orange sludge problem all on it's own due to it being HOAT and not a true OAT coolant.

 

[California]

Picture shows the backside of a Kubota alternator or "dynamo" as they call it.

I think that's the same dynamo as used on Yanmar. There was an early version with the diodes on the back side of the dynamo, then the more common dynamo version 2 that just contains windings.

I bought a regulator for the version 2, listed on Ebay as Kubota dealer overstock. It was the same thing as Yanmar's regulator and cost less than ones listed for Yanmar.

 

[California]

I wanted a fairly simple and elegant setup. It now looks like to get closest to that I will need use the tractor hydraulics.

The dealer-installed PS option on my YM186D runs from a diverter valve plumbed ahead of the loader and 3-point. Steering gets all the fluid below 1,000 rpm. The steering is reliable at any rpm but there is no response by the other hydraulic-driven components until 1,000 rpm or more.

I think this is a fair compromise compared to Rube-Goldberging a pump into such a tight engine compartment and that would be one more component to maintain.

 

[etpm]

The dealer-installed PS option on my YM186D runs from a diverter valve plumbed ahead of the loader and 3-point. Steering gets all the fluid below 1,000 rpm. The steering is reliable at any rpm but there is no response by the other hydraulic-driven components until 1,000 rpm or more.

I think this is a fair compromise compared to Rube-Goldberging a pump into such a tight engine compartment and that would be one more component to maintain.

Yeah, I am now of the same opinion. I'll let you know if my mind changes after I'm done. The weather is starting to get rainy, and I'm almost done with the tractoring I need to get done in the near future. So I can start soon.
Eric

 

[bmaverick]

Yeah, I am now of the same opinion. I'll let you know if my mind changes after I'm done. The weather is starting to get rainy, and I'm almost done with the tractoring I need to get done in the near future. So I can start soon.
Eric

Eric,

I recently came across a Yanmar power steering unit that is NEW. It has the looks of the YM power steering units offered years ago. The big question would be, the stroke travel distance. If the stroke is the same or a tad longer, it's good to use.

YANMAR POWER STEERING ACTUATOR CYLINDER 196350-34010 FOR ZT350 & ZT370​

 

[winston1]

Might work but made for a boat.

 

[bmaverick]

Might work but made for a boat.

That's what I was thinking too. Marine grade is more durable than Ag grade. Chances are, this one will not leak like the old YM OE styles did.

Stroke is key, then the mounting. It should be strong enough to do the job overall.