Creating a Lake

   / Creating a Lake #821  
Eddie, I first heard of hydromulching from a friend and neighbor who worked for a company that owned 31 golf courses/country clubs and he said that was what they did around the perimeter of the greens when building new golf courses. Of course this summer will be 30 years since I had that hydromulching done, but I still remember that I could have bought St. Augustine sod for $1.25 a yard (if I provided the labor to put it down) and the hydromulching was just about half that; i.e., $.07 a square foot or $.63 a yard. The friend had told me it usually cost them about a nickel a square foot.

But I agree that the different types of bermuda can get confusing and I don't know anything about them except for the common bermuda and coastal myself.

However, the same can be said for fescue. The neighbor I mentioned who had his lawn done in fescue was, unfortunately, right next door. Now I didn't know, back then, that there are different types of fescue, also, but within a couple of years, I sure did think it should be illegal to plant that stuff. As long as that neighbor lived there, he watered, fertilized, and mowed and had a beautiful lawn, but that stuff spread into my year; clumps of it that grew just a little more than twice as fast as my bermuda.:mad: It also stayed green and needed mowing year round. Then he sold the place and moved and that house became a rental house with tenants who did nothing to the yard, except mow it when the city issued a notice that it had to be mowed. Pretty soon, it was nothing but clumps of tall grass here and there in that yard, while the clumps that had spread into my bermuda stayed nice and green. I spot sprayed with Round-Up to try to keep it under control and out of my yard, but it was just about a losing battle.

It's hard for me to imagine anyone trying to kill out bermuda and keep fescue. If I found any fescue in my yard now, I think I'd spray the whole yard with Round-Up and start over.:D
 
   / Creating a Lake #822  
Hey Eddie, Bird and Jim,
I live on a golf course in Southern California and was head of the greens committee for 5 years. That doesn't qualify me to grow grass though. For years we've had hybrid Bermuda in the fairways and fescue in the rough. The fescue grows well in the shade and cooler months and the Bermuda does not. But the Bermuda grows great when it's hot and the fescue dies off. That was the plan anyway. So each Winter we would overseed the fairways with fescue to have a "green" golf course. Problem with that was during the months that were not hot enough, the fescue would still grow in the Summer. Then when it got really hot the fescue died off and we had bare spots all over. Of course we seeded the bare spots with Bermuda but then fall would come and nothing grew there. Turns out it was easier to grow fescue than Bermuda in our mini-ecosystem.

We finally bit the bullet and cut all the fairways out and replace it with hybrid Bermuda sod in April. Lucky it got hot and with water and fertilizer, our fairways are like carpets now. We NEVER overseed with fescue anymore. We have the dormant base of Bermuda during the Winter and it plays great. The fescue rough does real good even in the Summer but we have to keep it watered quite a bit and pretty tall. So what I'm saying is you need to see what grasses your environment allows to grow whether it be fescue or Bermuda. When you mix them, each plant fights for survival and only one plant can grow in the same spot. The one that likes the environment the most will win out.
 
   / Creating a Lake #823  
I think that's good advice, Rob. The only place I've had any success with mixing them is to let St. Augustine gradually take over from Bermuda, and it will eventually completely displace the Bermuda.
 
   / Creating a Lake #824  
How about some pictures of the lake after the snowfall. If it stuck, that is.
 
   / Creating a Lake
  • Thread Starter
#825  
Scott,

The snow never really happened here. Just some ice and sleet that melted about as soon as it hit. Not enough to measure in my rain guage and no change in the lake level. The forecast is for a storm this weekend that should have some heavy rains, so if that happens, it might fill the lake.


The main grass's that grow here are bermuda, bahia, centepede, zoisa and st augastine. There's probably others, but they are not very common, or just cold season temporary grass. The fiscue and rye varieties do well for a few months, but as soon as it warms up, they die off. It's probably because they need constant watering and that doesn't happen. The bermuda and other grassses do just fine without watering.

Bahia is out because of it's stalks and the way it grows in clumps. Bermuda is the best for ground cover since it spreads out and holds the dirt to together and sheds water when it rains. St. Augustine does the same, but it's better for shade. You have to transplant St. Augustine, no seeding. Centeped is very, very nice, but a very slow grower and dificult to get established. I'm gonna start with some around the edge of the water and reseed it every year. In time, I hope to have the entire lake ringed with Centepede. Zoisa is used in some high end homes, but it's very rare. I've read all the wonders of it, but the one thing I don't like is how quickly it turns brown and goes dormant. I still have a touch of green in some of my bermuda, but mostly it went dormant in November. Zoisa was brown a full month earlier.

Eddie
 
   / Creating a Lake #826  
Bird said:
if you'd had the kind of "soil" I had 60 miles south of Dallas, you'd also have 10 pounds of mud stuck to each shoe.

Bird, I don't recall which "DUKE" movie it was but one of the earlier John Ford/John Wayne flicks was a real hassle for the cast and crew because of your kind of mud. They'd get the camera angles set up and the marks placed but the longer the actors walked around the taller they got forcing closeups to be refigured. The said they wouild literally get about 6 inches taller in the particular mud they were dealing with.

Pat
 
   / Creating a Lake #827  
EddieWalker said:
Pat,

I walked along the side of the dam lookign for any sign of erosion, or squishy spots. It's completely solid and I wouldn't have any problems driving on it.

The other pictures show how much freeboard I have above the water line of the dam.
What do you think? Do I need more dirt?

Thanks,
Eddie

Eddie, I'm not trying to be an alarmist but to offer suggestions that "might" help divert problems. As for walking around and not noticing any squishy spots or driving on the dam. The area of concern would be well under the surface and not detectable by a surface inspection. If the dam were quite saturated by the water on both sides and you drove across the dam you could conceivably find the problem "all at once" but not neccessarily.

My opinion on whether or not you need more dirt is pretty useless. More is better but how much is enough? About 4 years ago I hired a professional engineer (PE who was a soils engineering expert) who brought in a sub contractor with a drilling rig and two operators to take soil samples every 6 inches in depth till we got to bed rock. The total cost to me for the engineer, His laboratory analysis, his report with PE stamp and the drilling rig and crew was less than $1000.

With his information we could act from a position of knowledge to design foundations for two story with basement and have the basement floor and walls super dry even though the ground water gets as high as 7-8 feet above the basement floor and we have no waterproof coating on the walls.

He has E&O insurance to protect both of us and he of course errs on the side of conservatism because if he has a big claim on the E&O they would drop him and he'd be out of business, literally. (E&O is errors and omisions insurance that protects the client in case the PE goofs up and doesn't have deep enough pockets to make it right.) If it were me I'd find someone who knew a whole lot more about gravity dams than any of us here profess to and get an opinion. Is there ever going to be a liability issue regarding the dam bursting? If it let go catastrophically could anyone be harmed and in a positiion to recover damages? It would look good in court if you could show "due dilligence" in the form an expert opinion. Couldn't cost that much to get an expert (with a PE stamp) to review your situation if liability could be an issue.

Pat
 
   / Creating a Lake #828  
Regarding the grass I think you will be happier with Bermuda.
These days there are both hay and turf bermuda that can be seeded. From the research I did there is no economical advantage to seeding. Bermuda is very high to plant or sprig. Giant Bermuda seeds went for $300 per 50# bag last year (8 to 15 lbs per acre for hay, more for turf). Sprigs for coastal hay can run $75 - $100 per acre. (sprigger might try to sell tifton 85 for $125 per acre, it ain't worth it). That bahia might start looking good and $60 for 50 lbs.

Most people sprig around here but the risk is high, you have less that 24 hrs to get it into the ground and must rain within 3 days or its a total loss. Seeds need almost constant moisture until germination. Either way you might want to think about a sprinkler to go with that pump.

Hope to here how the grass turns out, I am just sticking with that @#$&*! Johnson grass for now.

BTW, hogs love to root up the soil for Johnson grass roots.
 
   / Creating a Lake #829  
CharlieTR said:
Regarding the grass I think you will be happier with Bermuda.

I think you're right Charlie.

I've done a lot of fiddling with grass over the years, and learned some hard and expensive lessons! For large expanses of grass in the hot areas of Texas and Louisiana, there's nothing like seed "turf" bermudagrass to start things off. Wal-Mart sells Pennington Sahara, and it works great. No mowing needed in the fields.

You can plant Centipede at the same time, and it will eventually take it over. It's a lot prettier than bermuda, and has a nice, bright green color with (unlike bermuda) almost no fertilizing needed. Centipede is very heat tolerant, and has medium-high drought tolerance.
Zoysia grows too slowly, and burns out here in the hot part of the summer. I'm sure it would burn out even worse in Texas. Zoysia simply won't work near the Gulf. Rainy periods cause a rust disease that stunts it badly. Winter rains also drown it out. That may not be a problem in Eddy's area. Fescue simply doesn't work in extremely hot areas. It battles back in winter, but the sun kills it outright in unshaded areas. St Augustine is just too disease and drought prone, much like Zoysia. It was great in the Gulf coast areas until that crazy decline disease struck.

"More than you needed to know about grass" :)
 
   / Creating a Lake #830  
Eddie,

Have beenvery busy pruing the olive trees so have not stay up to date with this topic. I'm glad I checked ti thogh as last time I looked you were pumping water into it, and now look it is practically full! The lake really looks great eddie, really nice. i am looking forward to seeing it with some grass around it, that is going to look real purty (isn't that how the southerners say pretty?).
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

IH Cub Lo-Boy 154 (A50514)
IH Cub Lo-Boy 154...
Chevrolet C8500 Flat Bed with a Moffet Kit (A51039)
Chevrolet C8500...
2008 SHOP BUILT  STEEL TANKER TRAILER (A50854)
2008 SHOP BUILT...
2006 John Deere 650J LGP Crawler Tractor Dozer (A50322)
2006 John Deere...
Ditch Witch 6510A Trencher - Deutz Diesel, Backhoe, Cable Plow, Front Blade (A51039)
Ditch Witch 6510A...
2013 INTERNATIONAL PAYSTAR DAY CAB ROAD TRACTOR (A51406)
2013 INTERNATIONAL...
 
Top