ct235

[Dr_Zinj]

That clutch probably was the 'problem'. Maybe the previous owner tightened it up because it kept leaking down from where it was set?

When sold new, the owners manual was in the plastic carrier on the back of the seat. It shows all the grease fittings on the tractor, as well as the service intervals. 1200 hrs sounds like 10 years old at my rate of use, but a commercial operator could do that (or more) in a year.

By the way, I had two fittings I had to chip the paint off the first time I greased them up. I can see some owners thinking they were "full" because it wouldn't let them put more grease in them, not looking for any actually oozing out the joint.

 

[winston1]

The "operator's handbook" was back there. It does not have grease points shown. In that manual it talks about the "operation and maintenance manual". It was not with the tractor. I may invest in in a manual. I wonder if I purchased the "maintenance manual" would I still need the "operation and maintenance manual"? Although these manuals are quite expensive I am also considering a "parts manual". I have one for my Yanmar and it has come in useful several times. I have always done all my repairs and maintenance so probably a good investment for me.

 

[SSdoxie]

The Operation and Maintenance Manual is one manual that covers both. You can order this direct from Bobcat online on their webiste <www.bobcat.com>. I wouldn't purchase a Parts manual because the part illustrations and part number lists are also available online.

 

[Coyote machine]

The "operator's handbook" was back there. It does not have grease points shown. In that manual it talks about the "operation and maintenance manual". It was not with the tractor. I may invest in in a manual. I wonder if I purchased the "maintenance manual" would I still need the "operation and maintenance manual"? Although these manuals are quite expensive I am also considering a "parts manual". I have one for my Yanmar and it has come in useful several times. I have always done all my repairs and maintenance so probably a good investment for me.

You can get any of the manuals through a Bobcat dealer.
Regarding HST fluid: you can buy whatever brand you like at the price point you can afford BUT it MUST be for HST transmissions AND wet brakes. It will say so on the container.
There are various schools of thought on whether to change the HST fluid, and at what # of hours. So far I haven't changed it in over 750 hours of hard use service. I change ONLY the filters and check the level of fluid periodically.

I will change it soon, probably around 800 hours, with the Kioti brand HST fluid, which is WAY more money than any TSC fluid. I figure if I'm going to change it I might as well put a premium fluid in.
My dealer said this is what they do, and they have been a tractor dealer for a very long time. They look for any evidence of color change or milky looking fluid, which would indicate water in the fluid. Then, of course, one would change the fluid, and seek out the source of contamination.

 

[winston1]

Not knowing any history of the tractor I do plan on changing all the fluid and filters shortly but still wanting to put a few hours on it looking for bugs before proceeding. All fluids are clean looking and Bobcat filters are on it. Assuming most of you use the Bobcat filters or are there alternative filters out there?

 

[winston1]

I put several hours on the tractor yesterday, most everything seems to work as it should. I do have a question.

Are you suppose to use the clutch when shifting ranges? I read numerous threads on problems with range shifting and my conclusion is I don't think it is neccesary unless having trouble gettting it to shift. Am I right or wrong? Seems to be correct to be stopped when shifting ranges, correct? Thanks again.

 

[tcartwri]

I put several hours on the tractor yesterday, most everything seems to work as it should. I do have a question.

Are you suppose to use the clutch when shifting ranges? I read numerous threads on problems with range shifting and my conclusion is I don't think it is neccesary unless having trouble gettting it to shift. Am I right or wrong? Seems to be correct to be stopped when shifting ranges, correct? Thanks again.

You don't have to, it just makes it easier if there is pressure on the gears. You obviously can't shift while moving, except at a snails pace when you can carefully tickle the gear into range. Bumping the HST pedal will help get things meshed if you're having trouble getting it back into gear.

You should search out threads about safety switches and ignition switch problems. You will encounter those issues sooner or later.

 

[tcartwri]

The other thing to be aware of is that clutching will disengage the PTO even though the PTO lever is engaged. In these situations, you DO NOT want to be rough with the clutch as you will shock the PTO output and anything that is attached to it.

 

[Nlight]

I put several hours on the tractor yesterday, most everything seems to work as it should. I do have a question.

Are you suppose to use the clutch when shifting ranges? I read numerous threads on problems with range shifting and my conclusion is I don't think it is neccesary unless having trouble gettting it to shift. Am I right or wrong? Seems to be correct to be stopped when shifting ranges, correct? Thanks again.

Hello and welcome to the forum. I also own a CT235. I clutch when shifting but it is usually when stopped. Glad to see you are working out the issues with your new purchase. I also suspect you worked out some air that was caught in the system. We are coming out of a below average winter for snowfall so I did not put many hours on the tractor since last fall. I look forward to warm weather and all that goes with it. Also looking forward to building a new shed to store toys and the Bobcat and the many attachments for it.

 

[winston1]

I am making this thread even longer but I guess this is the right way to go about it. I got around to changing oil and filter today. Sure enough, someone had over tightened both pan plugs and actually broke the aluminum casting. I went to the local O'reilly's and got some marine JB weld. Suppose to be good around oil, etc. I have put one good thick coat around the plug openings and will put another coat when the first one dries good. Sure don't want to think about having to buy a new pan plug the drive shaft would have to be dropped to replace the pan. Thinking seriously about drilling and tapping the two plugs as large as possible to put a smaller bolt with gasket so I won't have to put any more stress on the broken holes. Just screw the smaller plugs out. Does this sound reasonable?