ct235

[MoKelly]

I called the closest two Bobcat dealers to me and spoke to the service department people. Both gentlemen had no guess as to my problem. The last one stated I might call Kioti so I am waiting for a return call from there national help line to give me their nearest dealer. My google search isn't working to find their dealer near me.

Wonderful support from Bobcat. That is just bad in my opinion.

MoKelly

 

[powerscol]

Post this question over in the hydraulics forum. I am sure someone there will figure it out. Did you find the hydro oil dip stick? Its below the fill tube to the left of the PTO housing at the rear of the unit. If you did was the level full?

 

[winston1]

Post this question over in the hydraulics forum. I am sure someone there will figure it out. Did you find the hydro oil dip stick? Its below the fill tube to the left of the PTO housing at the rear of the unit. If you did was the level full?

Yes, found it and the level is full and clean looking.

 

[Coyote machine]

The MLS valve is what the knob under the seat controls. Sometimes they get something jammed in the valve. I told one guy to hit his with a dead blow hammer, lightly, and in his particular case it solved his issue, which I believe was the 3PH would not lower at all.

 

[winston1]

Going to sound fishy but this is my story and I'm sticking with it. I decided to go take my rotary mower off and did. After taking it off I went back to the garage. I loosened the upper and lower 3 point lever stops, worked the lever all the way up and down, sprayed penetrating oil down on what the parts list calls a clutch. The lever is pretty stiff, to stiff in my opinion so was thinking this might make it a little easier to use. I then cranked the tractor and the lift begin working up and down immediately. After working it numerous times I went out and put my finish mower on, set the stops for correct up and down height and begin to mow. I ran it at least 30 minutes and it worked flawlessly. Sure making me smile but at the same time I am a little concerned this could happen again. :confused3:

Best I can tell looking at the parts drawings and list the clutch I spoke of is there just for the purpose of putting drag on the lever in order to keep it from moving on it's own. I don't think it has anything to do with my problem although I am going to look into possibly loosening it off a little.

Thank you all for listening and ideas. I called a Kioti dealer and requested a mechanic call me back, they stated they would but haven't heard a word as of yet.

 

[powerscol]

The old girl may have been a bit stiff from lack of use. To help us out, did you by this unit used from a dealer or private individual, and how many hours? Do you know what it was used for as type of previous use and maintenance?

If you do not know the maintenance history, I strongly suggest a full service. Yes it may be pricy, but well worth a clean bill of health and knowing where you start at.

MY CT 235 starts lift on the 3pt within 1/4 to 1/2 second of pushing the lever. Hope this helps and good luck from hear on out. Also check the screen in front of the radiator and you inner and outer air filters. (I blow my outer one out from time to time) Keep up on the lubrication schedule too. Folks are here to help

 

[winston1]

Bought it from a dealer selling mostly used equipment. Thinking about 1200 hours. No, I don't know history. The air filters look new. Radiator screen is spotless. Although the engine oil does look good I do plan on changing all fluids and filters before long. Still wanting to put a few hours on it to check for more bugs before going ahead.

I keep finding more grease zerks, I don't have anything showing me all the grease points. When looking through the parts drawings again last night I see the shaft going into the 3 point valve has a grease zerk. I will hit that this morning seeing if it might help in loosening the lift lever a little.

I have done quite a bit of reading on the forum about what hydraulic fluid to use. Seems to be quite a difference of opinions and also price. Having a Yanmar and following that forum for several years I have concluded the Tractor Supply, Super Tech brands seem to do fine with the straight gear or the power shift units. I know the Hydrastat is different so I am still weighing in on all the opinions before going forward.

Can year of manufacture be determined by s/n or any other way?

Thanks again for the warm welcome and advice. I am listening.

 

[winston1]

Probably getting tired of listening but just thought I would pass it on that the clutch on the 3 point lever has a bolt with a spring under it that tensions the clutch making for more or less drag on the control lever. I loosened off some and am much more pleased with the smoother action now. Lift continues to work properly.

 

[tman1020]

Glad to hear it. Maybe it was air in system.

 

[powerscol]

Did you find the operators manual for your unit? It should be in the black box on the back of the seat. It has all the lubrication points shown in it. As for the TSC fluid, NO it is not correct if is the one I looked at the other day. You need the correct combo fluid this is for both hydraulic trans and the hydraulic system. Wall mart has a Shell product I believe. My Bobcat dealer is currently running a spring fluid and filter sale at 15% off. Their prices have been fair so far.

Have fun and be safe

 

[Dr_Zinj]

That clutch probably was the 'problem'. Maybe the previous owner tightened it up because it kept leaking down from where it was set?

When sold new, the owners manual was in the plastic carrier on the back of the seat. It shows all the grease fittings on the tractor, as well as the service intervals. 1200 hrs sounds like 10 years old at my rate of use, but a commercial operator could do that (or more) in a year.

By the way, I had two fittings I had to chip the paint off the first time I greased them up. I can see some owners thinking they were "full" because it wouldn't let them put more grease in them, not looking for any actually oozing out the joint.

 

[winston1]

The "operator's handbook" was back there. It does not have grease points shown. In that manual it talks about the "operation and maintenance manual". It was not with the tractor. I may invest in in a manual. I wonder if I purchased the "maintenance manual" would I still need the "operation and maintenance manual"? Although these manuals are quite expensive I am also considering a "parts manual". I have one for my Yanmar and it has come in useful several times. I have always done all my repairs and maintenance so probably a good investment for me.

 

[SSdoxie]

The Operation and Maintenance Manual is one manual that covers both. You can order this direct from Bobcat online on their webiste <www.bobcat.com>. I wouldn't purchase a Parts manual because the part illustrations and part number lists are also available online.

 

[Coyote machine]

The "operator's handbook" was back there. It does not have grease points shown. In that manual it talks about the "operation and maintenance manual". It was not with the tractor. I may invest in in a manual. I wonder if I purchased the "maintenance manual" would I still need the "operation and maintenance manual"? Although these manuals are quite expensive I am also considering a "parts manual". I have one for my Yanmar and it has come in useful several times. I have always done all my repairs and maintenance so probably a good investment for me.

You can get any of the manuals through a Bobcat dealer.
Regarding HST fluid: you can buy whatever brand you like at the price point you can afford BUT it MUST be for HST transmissions AND wet brakes. It will say so on the container.
There are various schools of thought on whether to change the HST fluid, and at what # of hours. So far I haven't changed it in over 750 hours of hard use service. I change ONLY the filters and check the level of fluid periodically.

I will change it soon, probably around 800 hours, with the Kioti brand HST fluid, which is WAY more money than any TSC fluid. I figure if I'm going to change it I might as well put a premium fluid in.
My dealer said this is what they do, and they have been a tractor dealer for a very long time. They look for any evidence of color change or milky looking fluid, which would indicate water in the fluid. Then, of course, one would change the fluid, and seek out the source of contamination.

 

[winston1]

Not knowing any history of the tractor I do plan on changing all the fluid and filters shortly but still wanting to put a few hours on it looking for bugs before proceeding. All fluids are clean looking and Bobcat filters are on it. Assuming most of you use the Bobcat filters or are there alternative filters out there?

 

[winston1]

I put several hours on the tractor yesterday, most everything seems to work as it should. I do have a question.

Are you suppose to use the clutch when shifting ranges? I read numerous threads on problems with range shifting and my conclusion is I don't think it is neccesary unless having trouble gettting it to shift. Am I right or wrong? Seems to be correct to be stopped when shifting ranges, correct? Thanks again.

 

[tcartwri]

I put several hours on the tractor yesterday, most everything seems to work as it should. I do have a question.

Are you suppose to use the clutch when shifting ranges? I read numerous threads on problems with range shifting and my conclusion is I don't think it is neccesary unless having trouble gettting it to shift. Am I right or wrong? Seems to be correct to be stopped when shifting ranges, correct? Thanks again.

You don't have to, it just makes it easier if there is pressure on the gears. You obviously can't shift while moving, except at a snails pace when you can carefully tickle the gear into range. Bumping the HST pedal will help get things meshed if you're having trouble getting it back into gear.

You should search out threads about safety switches and ignition switch problems. You will encounter those issues sooner or later.

 

[tcartwri]

The other thing to be aware of is that clutching will disengage the PTO even though the PTO lever is engaged. In these situations, you DO NOT want to be rough with the clutch as you will shock the PTO output and anything that is attached to it.

 

[Nlight]

I put several hours on the tractor yesterday, most everything seems to work as it should. I do have a question.

Are you suppose to use the clutch when shifting ranges? I read numerous threads on problems with range shifting and my conclusion is I don't think it is neccesary unless having trouble gettting it to shift. Am I right or wrong? Seems to be correct to be stopped when shifting ranges, correct? Thanks again.

Hello and welcome to the forum. I also own a CT235. I clutch when shifting but it is usually when stopped. Glad to see you are working out the issues with your new purchase. I also suspect you worked out some air that was caught in the system. We are coming out of a below average winter for snowfall so I did not put many hours on the tractor since last fall. I look forward to warm weather and all that goes with it. Also looking forward to building a new shed to store toys and the Bobcat and the many attachments for it.

 

[winston1]

I am making this thread even longer but I guess this is the right way to go about it. I got around to changing oil and filter today. Sure enough, someone had over tightened both pan plugs and actually broke the aluminum casting. I went to the local O'reilly's and got some marine JB weld. Suppose to be good around oil, etc. I have put one good thick coat around the plug openings and will put another coat when the first one dries good. Sure don't want to think about having to buy a new pan plug the drive shaft would have to be dropped to replace the pan. Thinking seriously about drilling and tapping the two plugs as large as possible to put a smaller bolt with gasket so I won't have to put any more stress on the broken holes. Just screw the smaller plugs out. Does this sound reasonable?