Cutting asphalt to create a drain

[SouthernSky]

I have a large area in front of my home that was black-topped maybe 20 years ago. In the center of the largest area (where everyone drives and parks) there is now a 40’ long depression that collects water that becomes a pond until it evaporates. An overlay is not an option (without a complete removal of all the current blacktop) as that will cause water to drain the wrong way.

So I want to cut into the 3” blacktop from the lowest point over to where I can drain the water into a drain with pipe and have it flow to a ditch. Then backfill it with … not sure yet but we do have to drive over it.

If I use the tines on my box blade, it will likely break off huge chunks of asphalt, much wider than I’d want the gap to be (6” or so”). I’ve heard a trencher should not be used as the tar will gum up the trencher teeth.

What would be the best way to make a smooth cut in the blacktop?

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

I have a large area in front of my home that was black-topped maybe 20 years ago. In the center of the largest area (where everyone drives and parks) there is now a 40’ long depression that collects water that becomes a pond until it evaporates. An overlay is not an option (without a complete removal of all the current blacktop) as that will cause water to drain the wrong way.

So I want to cut into the 3” blacktop from the lowest point over to where I can drain the water into a drain with pipe and have it flow to a ditch. Then backfill it with … not sure yet but we do have to drive over it.

If I use the tines on my box blade, it will likely break off huge chunks of asphalt, much wider than I’d want the gap to be (6” or so”). I’ve heard a trencher should not be used as the tar will gum up the trencher teeth.

What would be the best way to make a smooth cut in the blacktop?

Might want to consider renting a demo saw otherwise I think you are relegated to a concrete cutting service for a really clean cut.

 

[/pine]

I agree...rent a wet saw...I'd consider something like this of the grade would support it...:

NDS 5 in. Pro Channel Drain Kit 5-1/2 in. x 39-3/8 in. Deep Channel, Galv. Steel Grates, End Caps/Outlet (3-Pack=9.8 ft) 864GMTL-3PK - The Home Depot

Keep your home clear of stormwater runoff and standing water with this 5-in. Pro Series channel drain kit. For an easy set-up, it offers a built-in interlocking channel design. A deep profile channel allows you to drain moderate flows.

www.homedepot.com

 

[BleedingOrange]

An old carbide skill saw blade will work. It,s probably only 1-2 inches thick.

 

[SouthernSky]

Thanks for the ideas. I will look into a rental later this week. I actually already have two drains and a hose but wasn’t sure the what was the best way to seal it after cutting it.

I appreciate it!

 

[Egon]

How thick is the asphalt?

 

[4570Man]

A skil saw with a masonry blade will probably get the job done. A gas masonry saw would make quick work of the job.

 

[/pine]

A diamond blade is the blade of choice...

as soon as other toothed or composite etc. blades get gummed up they will only continue cutting while the asphalt is above it's melting temp...

 

[mike0000]

I recently repaired an area of asphalt that was raised by a tree root that had grown under a driveway.
like others, I just used my circular saw with a masonry blade I bought at Lowe’s. I screwed a 2x4 into the asphalt (on the side that was to be removed) for a guide for the saw, worked great. The asphalt on the drive was less than 2” thick. The damaged area was close to the garage, after cutting and removing asphalt and root, I poured concrete as a repair. I was lucky that it looked like it had always been like that (concrete ramp to the garage).

Mike

 

[Diggin It]

How much length? If you're real careful removing the sections after you slice the path, you might be able to put them back in place and use some drive way sealer to fill the voids.

 

[SouthernSky]

I'm resurrecting an old thread because my wife said I needed to get this done. I don't think cutting alone will work anymore because there is at least four different low spots in my driveway lake.

This is the part of the circular driveway in front of my house. Where UPS, FedEx, USPS, etc. all have to stop to bring us packages as well as parking for other visitors. Every time it rains, we have a lake. And with Winter coming we don't want another 6-month lake because it never dried up.

Anyway, one or two drains won't get this done. There is now too many low spots. The two local blacktop companies (one put down the original blacktop) refuse to service and patch it. They only want to do new work (sorta like a lot of plumbers I know).

This is about 30-35' long now and maybe two feet at it's narrowest spot. The deepest part is about 4" in three of the four lowest spots.

Once I drain this, what can I use to fill this? I've tried bags of cold asphalt in potholes and that didn't work as well as whatever the parish/county does.

 

[Doughknob]

If that were mine, I'd do one of 3 things:
1) Not worry about it. To me that water is just not a big deal.....
2) Hire a blacktop company to cut it out and relay new
3) Order a ton of pea gravel to put in the low spot

I'd start with #3 and see how that worked. If too much water ran toward the house, I'd trench the grass area to carry it away.

 

[SouthernSky]

The first two is not an option. 1) My wife. 2) None of the paving companies want the work.

The difficulty with pea gravel is I don't have a good edge as these are large flowing depressions. Those things become bullets with the lawn mower and I have a lot of glass on the front of the house.

I found a product called Perma-Patch that may do the trick. The nearest company that stocks it is two hours away. It's just one idea. But surely someone here has dealt with large depressions in blacktop before and found an easy way to repair it.

 

[Diggin It]

First off between the sinkage and the cracking, it looks like it needs to be removed and repaved anyways. More gravel underneath to build it up so it won't sink again.

Has it ever been sealed? They recommend 5-7 years (which mine is way beyond).

Without knowing your budget, I have one suggestion. Seek out a company that will bore under it and set a pipe and drain fixture in that low spot. Set the boring machine in the woods and bore towards the camera. Let the water flow towards that wooded area.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

This might be a ridiculous statement, not even sure it is possible. But what about DIY chip seal, is that possible? I am not very well versed in the was of the paving world.
The county to the south of me uses it on all of the small to med. sized depressions in the roads to delay the inevitable repaving. It seems to work very well in my opinion.

 

[newbury]

Your in Deville, LA? Not Lower Alabama, not Los Angeles?
What about just cleaning it out and filling it with asphalt millings ?

 

[SouthernSky]

Ideally some kind of liquid fill that would harden in 24 hours would be great as I could pour it in and let it self level. But I’m not sure that would last.

Drains are still likely in the future though I have many depressions now along a 1700’ driveway. This one pictured is the only one I care about for now.

It cost me $18,000 cash about twenty years ago. Sealed it a couple times. To chop it up and start fresh would be prohibitively expensive.
Never let a big ass garbage truck on your new asphalt.

 

[Doughknob]

What would your wife do if you simply said, "You fix it honey."

 

[big bubba]

the safety patrol requires use of eye, ear, & respiratory protection once you decide on a path.
we will be watching ... lots of neighborhood construction going on here, i'm amazed at the lack of any personal protection in masonry (carpentry too) related machine work, see it all the time. best regards,

 

[Doughknob]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Aquaphalt/5013048889

Lot of work and would take a lot of buckets. But 'cold patch' is the typical homeowner asphalt repair.......