Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54"

   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #1  

ericher69

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
1,666
Location
Ontario Canada
Tractor
2008 Kubota b2920
Considering cutting down my 60" rear blade (mostly used for snow) down to 54"

Reason; front blower is 51" and I get lots of spoil now

Will still need some blower "wings" but will only need 2-3 inches per side compared to 5-6 inches per side now

Tractor is kubota b2920 (1500lbs dry weight) not counting blower, undercarriage, rear blade and sims cab

I have zero issue with pto horses lacking!

Let me know what u think

Thx
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #2  
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish by cutting it down. for snow you would want a rear blade a little bigger than if you were just using it for dirt.

A smaller blade will cut better, but require more passes.

I cut a 7.5' snow plow down to 6.5' because I feel it's the right fit for my machine. big enough, but not so big that I can't push it.
I also cut a 5 foot bucket to 4 foot just for a sidewalk that could get buried by street snow plow.

So I'm all for cutting down if it will suit your needs.

JB.
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #3  
Do you ever angle the rear blade? if you angle a 60 in blade it will be less than 54 inches pretty quick
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54"
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Jb

My blower is currently 9" narrower than rear blade...

Spoil ++ when doing first pass and edge passes

Thought about wings but 5.5-6 inches per side is a bit much

I thought about angling but I need straight to remove snow close to buildings etc.

Unless I go hydraulic angling?
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #5  
Jb

My blower is currently 9" narrower than rear blade...

Spoil ++ when doing first pass and edge passes

Thought about wings but 5.5-6 inches per side is a bit much

I thought about angling but I need straight to remove snow close to buildings etc.

Unless I go hydraulic angling?

Can't you just get off the tractor and manually angle the blade perpendicular (straight) to the tractor...or even a bit (15 degrees or so) away from the buildings? It really isn't that mch work, is it?
Personally, I think you'd regret cutting that blade down...
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54"
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Royjackson;

I'm not lazy but...

Getting in and out of a cab at least twice per drive at 50+ residential drives per snow fall adds up to major time wasted and $$
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #7  
If you are doing this for money, then you need to keep the full width blade and make it so that it has hydraulic angling. :thumbsup:
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #9  
Royjackson;

I'm not lazy but...

Getting in and out of a cab at least twice per drive at 50+ residential drives per snow fall adds up to major time wasted and $$

Yes, it would...I thought you were doing this for your home only.
You'd be better off with a front blade (for most snows...6-8 inches of less), I think.
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #10  
If you have a blower, why the need for a blade at all.??
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #11  
I understand now, and I agree, cut it down.
If you're primary use is production blowing and that rear blade is just ballast and for pulling snow away from doors or trapped areas. If it's getting in the way, sticking out and messing up the cleared paths the blower is making, cut it.
Better yet if you could fold those ends 90 degrees to create a box effect, you could pull more snow without it spilling. Then it would be a single use tool though.

How about a box scraper the right width? just a thought.

JB.
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #12  
I still dont uderstand what you are trying to accomplish???

Are you using the blowerand the blade at the same time???

Or, is it like I am suspecting that the blade is knocking snow down onto where you just cleared?

Have you tried adjusting the 3PH to get the rear blade to raise higher??? I know I can get my blade to lift about 30" off the ground with the right combination of toplink hole seclection and length.

Choose the lowest hole to mount the TL in on the tractor side, and then shorten it as much as you can. This will cause the rear of the blade to lift pretty high when you raise it.
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54"
  • Thread Starter
#13  
LD1

The blade is knocking snow down onto the cleared path

I live in eastern Ontario so our snow is pretty significant at times

Raising will not help much if at all
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #14  
I cut 7.5 foot meyers snow plow down 9 inches on each side with an angle grinder...

Draw lines and cut ...
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54"
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Will do

Will still need 2 widen front 4" but ok
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54"
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Jb4310

I have fabricated sides to the rear blade that are removable to create a boxblade like effect but still have the extra width creating problems
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #17  
I found a used 60" blade back when I had my B7300. I cut it down by removing about 1' from each end because for the B7300 a 48 inch blade was recommended. I used the pieces from each end to make a "sorta box blade". It served my needs for the B7300 but then I bought a B3300; the blade was too short, it didn't match the rear wheel width plus when I angled the blade it didn't move the dirt anywhere near the outside of the wheel track. So now I've taken the pieces and welded them back to the outside of the blade to get it back to 60". That's the good thing about metal, you can shorten it but if you change your mind, you can weld it back together. I used 7018 rod to weld the cutting edge back together and so far it's held up well.
 
   / Cutting down a 60" rear blade to 54" #18  
I found a used 60" blade back when I had my B7300. I cut it down by removing about 1' from each end because for the B7300 a 48 inch blade was recommended. I used the pieces from each end to make a "sorta box blade". It served my needs for the B7300 but then I bought a B3300; the blade was too short, it didn't match the rear wheel width plus when I angled the blade it didn't move the dirt anywhere near the outside of the wheel track. So now I've taken the pieces and welded them back to the outside of the blade to get it back to 60". That's the good thing about metal, you can shorten it but if you change your mind, you can weld it back together. I used 7018 rod to weld the cutting edge back together and so far it's held up well.

So you had a 5' blade, and a 4' blade was reccomended, so you decided to make it a 3' blade by taking 1' of EACH end:confused2:
 

Marketplace Items

2018 Chevrolet Impala Premier Sedan (A59231)
2018 Chevrolet...
2017 Genie GTH-5519 (A53317)
2017 Genie...
2009 Kubota M5111D 105HP 4WD Agricultural Tractor (A59228)
2009 Kubota M5111D...
2020 PETERBILT 567 (A58214)
2020 PETERBILT 567...
Adams Tender / Magnolia Trailer (A61307)
Adams Tender /...
CAT 336E (A58214)
CAT 336E (A58214)
 
Top