CX/CK2510 loader knob

[bitbanger]

I'm about 6' and have to have my suspension seat raised all the way on my CX. As such the loader valve control arm is about 4-6" shy of where I naturally grab for it.

Does the knob just twist off, or are they a friction fit? No set screw that I could see. Gave it a good twist, but because I wasn't vice gripping the lever itself didn't want to spin something beneath the boot. I'm thinking because it's sort of rubbery I may need to pry it off. Wanna see what I can do to lengthen it.

Also somewhat related there's about 3/4" slop all around on the control. This is cable piloted. Any way to tighten this up, or better I just leave it and not risk it drifting/not return to center?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Username Taken]

I'm about 6' and have to have my suspension seat raised all the way on my CX. As such the loader valve control arm is about 4-6" shy of where I naturally grab for it.

Does the knob just twist off, or are they a friction fit? No set screw that I could see. Gave it a good twist, but because I wasn't vice gripping the lever itself didn't want to spin something beneath the boot. I'm thinking because it's sort of rubbery I may need to pry it off. Wanna see what I can do to lengthen it.

Also somewhat related there's about 3/4" slop all around on the control. This is cable piloted. Any way to tighten this up, or better I just leave it and not risk it drifting/not return to center?

Thanks in advance.

Mine was permanent. Glued on, I think. PITA to get off. Used a Dremel at first, screw that, went to my Angle Grinder and cut through it.

I don't believe it would like to be twisted off. It's pretty well-attached. Whatever they used, has it on there.

I had to remove it for my 3rd function. PITA.

To me, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Then there's the other side of the coin, "If it ain't broke, fix it until it is."

 

[bitbanger]

It's looking that way. I need to wait to get some steel rod to possibly fashion up a new lever. I saw at least one CK owner on here did the same, shouldn't be too bad. I think instead of trying to remove the knob (without destroying it) I'll just toss on that ergonomic Kioti knob instead (and that way I can swap it back if I have to in the future).
The CX cab model has a slightly different positioning, naturally to accommodate the cab, but interestingly they position the knob higher, about (mid) steering wheel height.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Username Taken]

It's looking that way. I need to wait to get some steel rod to possibly fashion up a new lever. I saw at least one CK owner on here did the same, shouldn't be too bad. I think instead of trying to remove the knob (without destroying it) I'll just toss on that ergonomic Kioti knob instead (and that way I can swap it back if I have to in the future).
The CX cab model has a slightly different positioning, naturally to accommodate the cab, but interestingly they position the knob higher, about (mid) steering wheel height.

Thanks for the input!

I looked at mine and decided it was just more trouble than it was worth. I used the knob that was sent me by W.R. Long. Barely got that thing working right. Waiting for the electrical to fail any time. It was a bear.

As far as getting to the lever and where it's connected under the fender, I looked at it and walked away shaking my head.

My neighbor, who was a professional mechanic on Farm Machinery did, too. We decided that, these smaller tractors have almost everything that a much bigger tractor has, but it has to be crowded into a much smaller, tighter space. Makes them hard to work on. Hard to get to things.

Nothing is perfect on these things. None of it. Nothing. It's all a compromise of space, cost, feasibility, etc. So I try to live with the things that bug me and go more for utility.

If you haven't bought a grapple yet, you should when you can. (EA rulez) If you haven't, you almost certainly will. prolly. At that time, you're gonna be digging around in there and putting on a new knob so, if I could give you some advice/opinion/heads-up I'd say to wait until you have to put the 3rd function on. You're gonna love that.

 

[Vernorz]

It's looking that way. I need to wait to get some steel rod to possibly fashion up a new lever. I saw at least one CK owner on here did the same, shouldn't be too bad. I think instead of trying to remove the knob (without destroying it) I'll just toss on that ergonomic Kioti knob instead (and that way I can swap it back if I have to in the future).
The CX cab model has a slightly different positioning, naturally to accommodate the cab, but interestingly they position the knob higher, about (mid) steering wheel height.

Thanks for the input!

I think I might be the person you're referring to. I made a new lever for my CK2510. The knob isn't glued on if I remember. The top of the lever is gnarled and pressed flat so it spreads out wider than the diameter of the rod. The knob is just pressed on. I had a heck of a time getting it off. I just glued it onto the new lever I made. The bottom of the lever is threaded. To disassemble, you have to slide the rubber boot up the lever, take the 2 bolts holding the assembly together out, then there's a jam nut you loosen, and the rod just unthreads. I made the new lever out of 1/2 steel rod and cut some new threads, I can't remember what pitch, but I could get that info for you in you'd like. I'm only 5'7, and I made the lever a little long and angled back so that my arm is bent just short of 90 degrees when using it. I highly recommend making a new one, so much more control. I do remember 1/2 rod was a tiny bit smaller in diameter than the original, so the threads are a little shallow, but I've used it for over 200 hours and have never had an issue.

 

[bitbanger]

I think I might be the person you're referring to. I made a new lever for my CK2510.

Ah good eye, thanks for chiming in! I've learned to "live" with it for now, but when reversing and lowering/curling the loader I'm pushing that knob into the underside/backside of my knee. Ergonomics are terrible, but like everything else it'll have to wait.

I did see exactly what I needed to do to extend. In fact I've looked at some shift knob extensions that could be a drop-in upgrade. I believe it was an M14x1.5? Somewhere in that neighborhood.

 

[Vernorz]

M14x1.5 sounds about right with the threads. I'll check next time I'm out in the barn. It will be really enjoyable using the loader once you have it the length you need. I don't understand why they have such a short lever from the factory.

 

[bitbanger]

I don't understand why they have such a short lever from the factory.

As you may have noticed, the cab model has it substantially higher. Perhaps lessons learned. Anyway at this point I just need to quit complaining/shut up and make a new one.

 

[tacticalturnip]

As you may have noticed, the cab model has it substantially higher. Perhaps lessons learned. Anyway at this point I just need to quit complaining/shut up and make a new one.

View attachment 788472

Could you order the factory lever for the cabbed machine and just swap it out?

 

[bitbanger]

Could you order the factory lever for the cabbed machine and just swap it out?

I gave it a thought - I'm sure it's the same remote piloted assembly beneith (so would thread in). But I'd need to measure one in person to see where the knob would/could sit (you could rotate the position of course). Cab has the remote assembly at a different angle so I think it may land in an awkward position on open station. And it goes without saying, who knows what Kioti would want. I had them price a seatbelt retractor from a CK and they wanted like $290 or something ridiculous.