Deere 110TLB Won't Move - Potentiometer Eror Codes

[mtputney]

Talk about making things worse!

The lights on our Deere 110TLB weren稚 working. So I played around with the fuses. Lights are now working, but tractor has lost all ability to move!

Nothing with either forward or reverse peddles or even the creep toggle.

Its flashing error codes for the forward, reverse and creep potentiometers.

Anyone run into this before or have a recommendation that doesn稚 require me to be very electrically sophisticated?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[rangerfredbob]

Best bet is to talk to a dealer, but I deal with some industrial and marine engines at work so have some idea...

Likely the potentiometers are 6 wire, usually one row of 6 wires or two rows of 3, you can apply some logic here but the order of what wire does what changes dramatically between brands of everything... On the single row 6 style the first three wires are for one potentiometer then the other three are for the other (for safety they have a redundant sensor, more later...). In the two groups of 3 there is a ground wire, a 5V positive wire and a signal, in some computers the two 5V+ circuits are separate so it is possible to not have the 5V on one side and cause your problem. Depending on year with everything connected one of the signal wires should go from .5V at idle to 4.5V at WOT, the older versions the second will go from 4.5V at idle to .5V at WOT, newer ones will be about half of the first so .25V at idle and 2.25V at WOT but this varies by manufacturer and those values aren't exact...

The most likely cause is a bad power or ground source to the sensors, so find the potentiometer(s), disconnect the connector, check for two grounds and two 5V (with a multimeter on continuity put it on ground at one end and check the wires, then put it on the 20V setting and check the remaining wires to find two at 5V) If you are missing power or ground, there's your huckleberry... you would have to get a wiring diagram to get to the bottom of it but it could be a bad fuse or a bad ground somewhere...

 

[TractorGuy]

Keep it simple. Check all the fuses. Sometimes it's best if you suspect a fuse to just replace all of them. Pretty cheap way to start the troubleshooting process. I have seen fuses that looked good and even checked good with an ohm meter but had a crack in the filament that would not allow current to pass.

Make **** sure you don't put a fuse in the #12 slot or any slot that the panel list says is for testing only.

 

[mtputney]

Thanks.

My current guess is that I did put a fuse in the #12 slot by mistake while troubleshooting, since its unlikely that 3 potentiometers would fail simultaneously with just playing around with the fuses. Has anyone made that error and knows a away to reset the calibrations?

Thanks.

 

[TractorGuy]

Not sure if this will work but try disconnecting the battery for a minute or so and reconnect.

This is how I checked and adjusted the pots on my 4310.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ing/409098-built-ehydro-breakout-harness.html

On the 4310 after you have the voltage settings correct it says:
Calibration Procedure:
1. Turn key switch to the off position.
2. Unplug the position Y connector from the machine
wiring harness and the drive potentiometer.
3. Connect the machine wiring harness to the drive
potentiometer.
4. Drive pedals must be in the TOT position.
5. Turn the key switch to the run position.
6. The fault light (N) should display the 1 short, 1 long, and
2 short flash (• - • •) fault code for forward or the 2 long and
2 short flash (- - • •) fault code for reverse.
7. Wait 5 seconds then move the pedal being calibrated to
the BOT position.
8. After 5 seconds the fault light should turn off.
9. When the flash code ends the drive potentiometer being
tested is calibrated.
10.Repeat this procedure for the remaining drive pedal
potentiometer if needed.
11.Turn the key switch to the off position.
12.Install the drive potentiometer cover.