Buying Advice DEERE 4720 CAB BUYING DECISION TIME

[KB9UDE]

Hey guys,

I am thinking very seriously about trading my 4120 in for a 4720 Cab with 400CX loader. I need to know what options and accesories are good and what is a waste of money...I hope to make a trade before next weekend.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

About the only thing I'd reccomend is to get the Skid Steer QA.

Dunno if your dead set on the CX, I cant honestly say one way or the other, but from reading here and such, I think I'd investigate the X. While I love the self leveling, it comes at a cost...not so much financial but dump angles and such.

 

[deere4320]

Hey guys,

I am thinking very seriously about trading my 4120 in for a 4720 Cab with 400CX loader. I need to know what options and accesories are good and what is a waste of money...I hope to make a trade before next weekend.

Would you go for a eHydro or a PowerReverser

 

[jenkinsph]

Hey guys,

I am thinking very seriously about trading my 4120 in for a 4720 Cab with 400CX loader. I need to know what options and accesories are good and what is a waste of money...I hope to make a trade before next weekend.

I went with wheel weights 3 per wheel, rear wiper, third rear outlet and would recomend the diverter valve, telescopic links, topntilt, rear worklights and upgraded cruise. I have the front weights but know the loader will work in your case.

I have the epto on my 4520 and suspect you can get use out of it since you likely have some pto powered equipment left over in your stable. With a 50% increase in power this should allow you to make use of the 40 hp pto equipment at the lower engine speed.

I think you will find the upgrade to a 4720 cab to be a substancial increase in power and comfort. I have been very satisfied with my purchase.:thumbsup:

I see you have a similar background as I in broadcast engineering and sound. Funny thing about working the broadcast business is I no longer feel the need to have tunes in my tractor or vehicles.:laughing: In the old days pre cell phones I had to stay glued to radios to make sure everyone was still on the air. Consequently I now keep them turned off and have since retired from that business.

 

[KB9UDE]

I will get the third and and considering joystick control via diverter

I went with wheel weights 3 per wheel, rear wiper, third rear outlet and would recomend the diverter valve, telescopic links, topntilt, rear worklights and upgraded cruise. I have the front weights but know the loader will work in your case.

I have the epto on my 4520 and suspect you can get use out of it since you likely have some pto powered equipment left over in your stable. With a 50% increase in power this should allow you to make use of the 40 hp pto equipment at the lower engine speed.

I think you will find the upgrade to a 4720 cab to be a substancial increase in power and comfort. I have been very satisfied with my purchase.:thumbsup:

I see you have a similar background as I in broadcast engineering and sound. Funny thing about working the broadcast business is I no longer feel the need to have tunes in my tractor or vehicles.:laughing: In the old days pre cell phones I had to stay glued to radios to make sure everyone was still on the air. Consequently I now keep them turned off and have since retired from that business.

I have PR now but cab requires EHYDRO

Would you go for a eHydro or a PowerReverser

I want the CX due to unloading pallets off semis for my job...

About the only thing I'd reccomend is to get the Skid Steer QA.

Dunno if your dead set on the CX, I cant honestly say one way or the other, but from reading here and such, I think I'd investigate the X. While I love the self leveling, it comes at a cost...not so much financial but dump angles and such.

 

[TL LOFTUS]

I just upgraded from a 4520 open to a 4720 cab. After 25 hours of use I would suggest the automotive cruise, heavy duty bucket, rear fender extensions, and radio. I haven't tried the i-match yet.

Also, try to get the dealer to throw in the deal as many cab air filters as you can get.

 

[AKfish]

Unloading pallets... get all the "beef" on the butt-end you can!!

If you're going with the SS quick-attach; I'd get the 3rd SCV on the loader, too.

I'd also go with the Deluxe grill-guard, too.

Best of luck -- (I'm really "green" over a cabbed, 4720!)

AKfish

 

[Nuru]

I just upgraded from a 4520 open to a 4720 cab. After 25 hours of use I would suggest the automotive cruise, heavy duty bucket, rear fender extensions, and radio. I haven't tried the i-match yet.

Also, try to get the dealer to throw in the deal as many cab air filters as you can get.

Ditto on this post, get as much meat and options that you can afford.

 

[radman1]

For me, the skid steer carrier is a must. If you get that, order a JD skid steer foundry bucket. Go with a 72" bucket because you easily have the lift capacity. Cheaper in price, nearly the same size and shape as the conventional bucket, heavier in constuction and weight and it has a strong top lip for hooks or D-rings. If you have pallet forks, get the CX with self leveling. They also have a nice sized toolbox for the front that is not too bad in price.
With cab you can also get rear work lights, and side view mirrors. Neither is that critical of an add on and can be done easily later. I like a horn because I can get the attention of others when I am working in the cab. Automotive style cruise is nice but not critical.

I bought a 4520 since they upgraded the power to 60 hp (same as the earlier 4720s). Even the 4520s have more power than traction. The higher hp may only be critical for heavy mowing. I use a 10' pull type JD HX mower on my 4520 and it can get maxed out in tall grass.

I really like the R1s on my 4520 more than the prior CUTS with R4s. Much better traction. More adjustability on width. Unless you are using it for finish mowing, strongly consider the R1s. Very few people use these larger CUTs for finish mowing. I went with a total of 4 rear weights. 6 rear weights would extend beyond the sides of my R1 rims and I did not want that. I think 6 rear weights will not extend beyond the rims of an R4. Ideally, 6 rear weights are probably better than just 4. I turned my hydrualic pressure up to 2750 psi and I can just lift the rear end of my tractor with a heavy load in the FEL.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would add to Radman's post that three weights per side on R4's will extend beyond the tires about 3 inches. Don't know about others but that isn't a
problem for me, haven't rubbed any paint off the weights in 200 hrs so far.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Ditto on this post, get as much meat and options that you can afford.

One thing that might be able to get you more meat and options is to deal with the options on a "self install" basis, depending on your handiness...I know when I bought mine I was dealing to install everything myself...Bear in mind, when you bargain for a rear SCV, your not really just trying to get the 350.00 kit, the dealership is also factoring in 80+ bucks an hour to install....I suppose that all goes out the door if the machine came ready to roll from the factory though.

Options I got on my 3520 Cab:

-Rear Work Lights
-Radio Mount Kit (Supplied my own radio)
-Wheel Weights...2 55's in each wheel
-iMatch
-Skid Steer QA
-60" Foundry Bucket (not what I wanted, but it was free)
-Rear Wiper
-Rear SCV

While I bargained for self install, because it took so long to get the wheel weights in, they went ahead and installed the radio for me. I only needed to install the rear SCV, Wiper and Rear Work Lights.

 

[AKfish]

One thing that might be able to get you more meat and options is to deal with the options on a "self install" basis, depending on your handiness...I know when I bought mine I was dealing to install everything myself...Bear in mind, when you bargain for a rear SCV, your not really just trying to get the 350.00 kit, the dealership is also factoring in 80+ bucks an hour to install....I suppose that all goes out the door if the machine came ready to roll from the factory though.

Options I got on my 3520 Cab:

-Rear Work Lights
-Radio Mount Kit (Supplied my own radio)
-Wheel Weights...2 55's in each wheel
-iMatch
-Skid Steer QA
-60" Foundry Bucket (not what I wanted, but it was free)
-Rear Wiper
-Rear SCV

While I bargained for self install, because it took so long to get the wheel weights in, they went ahead and installed the radio for me. I only needed to install the rear SCV, Wiper and Rear Work Lights.

Dave;

That's an interesting "slant" on dealing for a new tractor that I'd never considered or heard discussed... bargaining on the purchase with the idea that you'll do the install on some of the options.

So, if the list price for the options includes install costs for the dealer -- does it necessarily translate to a lower price if you do it yourself???

Did you do the SS QA install? Still have the JD QA sittin' in a corner of your shop?

AKfish

 

[Spudland_Dave]

So, if the list price for the options includes install costs for the dealer -- does it necessarily translate to a lower price if you do it yourself???

Well, that depends on where you get your list price. My tractor was on the lot, so to add the rear SCV for example cost $350 for the actual kit, plus they charge labor to install. So in my case, yep, it saved me quite a few bucks to self install. Stupid things like the iMatch they just put on for me
I believe if you buy the tractor "from the factory" with the options you want, then yeah, its technically free install.

Did you do the SS QA install? Still have the JD QA sittin' in a corner of your shop?

For "delivery purposes" they installed some things for me, such as the wheel weights and the SS/QA. So I really made out good, they put on alot of the stuff free, and I was only left with installing the Wiper, Rear lights and SCV. They offered me the original JD QA but I saw zero need for them so I told them to keep em...

 

[radman1]

I would add to Radman's post that three weights per side on R4's will extend beyond the tires about 3 inches. Don't know about others but that isn't a
problem for me, haven't rubbed any paint off the weights in 200 hrs so far.

My bad. I has guessed the wider rim of the R4 would allow 3 weights on each side.

 

[AKfish]

My bad. I has guessed the wider rim of the R4 would allow 3 weights on each side.

So, with the R1's set to their widest (deep dish side out) the weights (110's) extend beyond the rim/tire edge when stacked 3 deep?

Wonder if they (weights) extend out more or less with R1 rims vs R4 rims?

AKfish

 

[jenkinsph]

Dave;

That's an interesting "slant" on dealing for a new tractor that I'd never considered or heard discussed... bargaining on the purchase with the idea that you'll do the install on some of the options.

So, if the list price for the options includes install costs for the dealer -- does it necessarily translate to a lower price if you do it yourself???

Did you do the SS QA install? Still have the JD QA sittin' in a corner of your shop?

AKfish

AKfish,
When I ordered in my 4520 last year I agreed to install the options to get a lower price.
This included updated cruise, rear worklights, weights, rear hydraulic outlet, rear wiper kit, front hood guard ,topntilt, moving mid outlets to rear and telescopic links. Some options are factory installed but most of the above are boxed separately. The economy pto and diverter valve are installed at the factory if ordered as I understand. All of this was quick to install for a novice.

About the weights on R1 wheels I suspect they will extend out a little even with the wheels dished out. Since these weights are smooth and rounded over they shouldn't be much of an issue though.

 

[radman1]

So, with the R1's set to their widest (deep dish side out) the weights (110's) extend beyond the rim/tire edge when stacked 3 deep?

Wonder if they (weights) extend out more or less with R1 rims vs R4 rims?

AKfish

With the deep dish out, it would probably contain 3 on each side on an R1 rim but didn't try that combo. The problem with dish out, is the tires are now set very wide and would be wider than any reasonable sized bucket. Mine currently are set about 71-72" wide. I thought in a different recent thread, someone said they could be set near 90" wide.

 

[radman1]

AKfish,
When I ordered in my 4520 last year I agreed to install the options to get a lower price.
This included updated cruise, rear worklights, weights, rear hydraulic outlet, rear wiper kit, front hood guard ,topntilt, moving mid outlets to rear and telescopic links. Some options are factory installed but most of the above are boxed separately. The economy pto and diverter valve are installed at the factory if ordered as I understand. All of this was quick to install for a novice.

I have bought 2 recent JD CUTs from different dealers. 3720 and 4520 with cabs. The 3720 was 18% off list and the 4520 16% off list. That included the same discount for all options added on. All options were installed by dealer at no cost. That included block heater, rear wheel wts, horn, side mirrors, rear lights, upgraded cruise, tool box, electric diverter and 3rd rear SVC. Many of those items are easy to add. The block heater takes more time with draining the antifreeze, removing the block plug and refilling radiator. The weights maybe a 2 man job.

 

[jenkinsph]

Radman,
When I bought my 4520 cab tractor it was 18% off including the tiller and field cultivator plus all add ons. Took the better part of the first day to look everything over and install the accessories. I also made some neat tiedowns for the front of the tractor since it is moved around alot. Makes chaining down to the trailer easy.

 

[nmu98]

If your going from an open station to a cab, get the horn.