Deere new models

[LBrown59]

The X700 series is basically a big riding lawn mower .

But A JD 2305 or Kubota BX is not.

 

[Gittyup]

I'm not home, so can't measure. But that frame looks identical to my 425 (same frame as 455).

 

[skidoo]

Skidoo,

The frames are not as think as the frames on the tractors we use, but the key here is the frame design. The X series tractors use essentially a unit body design frame which has several designed reinforcement points. It is plehty strong. In my opinion, it likely is as strong, if not stronger, than a 2305 frame.

John M

OK, I see that is has a number of different reinforcements and being 7 gauge steel makes it relatively hefty compared to other garden tractors. I am satisfied that it is good for the intended purpose.

It sure it nice handling. My son left his truck locked and parked about 6 feet in front of the garage door. He wasn't around and the spare key did not work to unlock it. So, I just opened the door and steered the tractor around the front of the truck and house. That would have been much more difficult with 2WS.

The Dealer picks it up on Monday to fix any and all issues.

 

[LBrown59]

The Dealer picks it up on Monday to fix any and all issues.

Have you got it back yet?

 

[ovrszd]

brownie has a serious case of green envy... Post after post about green tractors.

I think brownie is on the payroll here. He's hired to antagonize members and raise the post count. He's worth every penny they pay him.

But then if he's not getting paid,,,, he's just cheap entertainment isn't he...

 

[skidoo]

I got the X749 back today! The holidays tend to make for slow service. But, that is ok. It's not like I need to mow snow right now.

Anyway, the dealer fixed a coolant leak at the block heater, but they could not find a problem with the engine dying. The analysis indicated that with the hydro fluid cool or cold, there is much more load on the engine which is increased more with the diff lock. Sure enough, I drove it up and down my driveway for about 15 minutes, and then tried the diff lock on the hilly part of the driveway. It did well with it starting to die only on the steepest part of the drive and the pedal at max. If I backed off just a little, it would resume engine speed. So, I assume in warmer weather, it will not be a problem.

When it does this, the engine rpms drop rapidly and will quickly die if continued at that load. This is substantially different than my 2520 where I can put it in high range and go up the driveway and I can adjust the speed (load) to keep the rpms just below max, say dropping from 2700 to 2400 rpms. A little more speed will drop the rpm a little more, a little less speed will increase rpms. But, with this X749, the rpm drop off is very rapid.

Has anyone else with an X7xx Diesel experienced the engine rpms drop rapidly under a heavy load or when cold.

 

[ccsial]

skidoo: As I posted earlier my X748 does not do this. The X749 must have a different hydraulic system since the Front axle uses hydraulic motors. My 748 uses a drive shaft from the transmission. I wonder if this problem is unique to the AWS models.

 

[skidoo]

skidoo: As I posted earlier my X748 does not do this. The X749 must have a different hydraulic system since the Front axle uses hydraulic motors. My 748 uses a drive shaft from the transmission. I wonder if this problem is unique to the AWS models.

Can you load the engine such that the rpms drop? If so, does the rpms drop rapidly or more gradual? I'm not sure that it is a significant problem yet and yes it may be unique to the AWD 4WS model. But, I believe your engine is the same so, I would think the loading of it should respond similarly.

One more thing to add. I am convinced it is not just with the diff lock. When it was cold, it occurred with normal AWD when it had sufficient traction. So, it does seem to be related to the load on the engine.

 

[ccsial]

Can you load the engine such that the rpms drop? If so, does the rpms drop rapidly or more gradual? I'm not sure that it is a significant problem yet and yes it may be unique to the AWD 4WS model. But, I believe your engine is the same so, I would think the loading of it should respond similarly.

I have never noticed the RPM drop. I have been pushing snow up on the ditch pretty hard in 4wd with diff lock on and the engine does not even change pitch. That is at about 3/4 throttle. I did break the bead on a rear tire doing that. I increased the PSI to 10 and hope it does not do it again. I never noticed any drop this summer when mowing either. Just a bit when I engage the PTO at 1/2 throttle.

 

[skidoo]

I have never noticed the RPM drop. I have been pushing snow up on the ditch pretty hard in 4wd with diff lock on and the engine does not even change pitch. That is at about 3/4 throttle. I did break the bead on a rear tire doing that. I increased the PSI to 10 and hope it does not do it again. I never noticed any drop this summer when mowing either. Just a bit when I engage the PTO at 1/2 throttle.

Looks like I need to do some more testing.

 

[jcmseven]

Skidoo,

As much as I hate to say it, I think you have an issue with your machine on this. Perhaps JD DID adjust the hydro flow on its AWS machines, but my old 595 never would drop RPM's. Your machine should not either. If it does, something is wrong with it. It has a ton of power for its weight and should easily climb any hill it can stay "rubber down" on. My 595 would never bog, even going up major steep hills while operating a PTO attachment.

John M

 

[unit40]

Skidoo,

As much as I hate to say it, I think you have an issue with your machine on this. Perhaps JD DID adjust the hydro flow on its AWS machines, but my old 595 never would drop RPM's. Your machine should not either. If it does, something is wrong with it. It has a ton of power for its weight and should easily climb any hill it can stay "rubber down" on. My 595 would never bog, even going up major steep hills while operating a PTO attachment.

John M

I agree. I think there must be some type of problem. Although my X744 is AWS, it is not AWD. But my engine has never bogged down at all. I would say that the tranny feels some resistamce before the tires start to slip, but the motor runs full bore without a skip.

 

[skidoo]

It cuts back quickly. It runs full bore with plenty of power, but when it reaches that point, zero power. Its not like it gradually runs out of power. For those who have the Diesel, do you know what system parts can cut the engine quickly? Where are all the safety interlocks? What does a safety interlock cut, fuel pump, injectors, or what?

I am going to test different forms of load such as pushing or pulling against something. Perhaps it is the G forces that moves a loose connection somewhere. I am not pleased that the dealer could not duplicate the problem in an hour and a half of operating it. I really like this tractor and would hate to return it for the 30 day satisfaction guarantee. The season right now is not the most suitable for testing. If I keep it, it is covered by warranty for 4 years. What would you do?

 

[ccsial]

I would try to find a test that causes it to cut out that can be duplicated by the dealer.

Your manual should have a section on testing all the interlocks. That should tell you what interlocks there are. Once it is running and the PTO is NOT engaged I don't know what could kill the engine.

You may try making a new post with a different title. The title of this post is probably not drawing a lot of attention.

 

[skidoo]

Problem Solved!!

It turns out to be the seat switch. Apparently, my butt isn't heavy enough! When I press hard on the go pedal, my back goes against the back of the seat, thereby reducing some downward force. When I press on the diff lock, that takes even more force against the back of the seat, reducing the downward force further. Apparently, the reduction is just enough to trigger the empty seat switch. If I take my hands off the steering wheel and hold on to the fender handles and pull myself into the seat while pressing the diff lock and go pedal, it works fine!

Now that I know what causes it, I can deal with it. I'm looking forward to spring!


One other thing I may want to deal with is the front tires easily picks up small rock (i.e. pea gravel for the ice) from the driveway and throws it on top of the deck. For those with the SE model, does that make a significant difference? It seems the SE is not an option for the X749, but I wonder if the fenders could be adapted or come up with some other way to reduce the rocks on the deck.

 

[ccsial]

Glad to hear you found it skidoo. That was my first suspision as I posted a while ago. I disabled my seat switch the day I got my tractor. Sure glad that is all it was. You'll sleep good tonight.

I do like the fenders on my 748SE. They keep slush and rocks in check. The fenders may be able to fit your 749 but I'm sure you would have to fabricate some mounts. The 748 axle is totally different from the 749.

 

[LBrown59]

If I keep it, it is covered by warranty for 4 years. What would you do?

All you get out of a 4 year warranty on a lemon that can't be fixed is the aggravation of battling the problem for 4 years at somebody elses expense.
Then starting in year five you get to pay for the grief. (I know, been there done that with A MTD Wards lawn tractor)

 

[LBrown59]

Glad to hear you found it skidoo. That was my first suspision as I posted a while ago. I disabled my seat switch the day I got my tractor. Sure glad that is all it was. You'll sleep good tonight.

I do like the fenders on my 748SE. They keep slush and rocks in check. The fenders may be able to fit your 749 but I'm sure you would have to fabricate some mounts. The 748 axle is totally different from the 749.

He sure should!

 

[LBrown59]

I am not pleased that the dealer could not duplicate the problem in an hour and a half of operating it.

My wife just told me why the dealer didn't find the problem while he had your tractor.

 

[LBrown59]

Now that I know what causes it, I can deal with it.

Check the switch and see how it's mounted.
If it has slots rather than holes for the bolts that hold it on it may be asjustable.
Another trick i've used is to place a small piece of foam tape on the seat where the switch button contacts it.
You may be able to gain enough distance that way to keep the switch on;depending on how thick of a piece of foam tape you can get by with.
== L B ==
PS
If all else fails put on and extra 100 pounds and a pair of elevator shoes.