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yooperdave
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Delivered Post Hole Digger Issues
- Thread starter yooperdave
- Start date
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mred2
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Tell wife to stay clear of the PHD. I have seen people hurt really bad on them, trying to help from the ground. Good luck!
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yooperdave
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In summary,
The product was advertised under Rev D of the owners manual which specifies a cat 1 or cat 2 hitch, but Rev C of an older vintage specifies cat 2 or cat 3 hitch.
The model numbers and part numbers are the same regardless of revision. However the hitch configurations are different.
Yooper Dave
The product was advertised under Rev D of the owners manual which specifies a cat 1 or cat 2 hitch, but Rev C of an older vintage specifies cat 2 or cat 3 hitch.
The model numbers and part numbers are the same regardless of revision. However the hitch configurations are different.
Yooper Dave
sd455dan
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That is worth a try.
we tried to (pilot) hole the 2 foot auger with a 12 inch, and it didn't work, -the auger would not settle down and dig straight.
Using the 9 inch may be narrow enough to keep the center of the auger in alignment on the way down.
One suggestion that may help to get started also, (if) you have thick grass growing where the holes go, is to dig about 3 inches down in a 2 foot circle with a shovel where you want the hole centered . It may help get the bit started by removing the sod. seemed to help when we dug the 2' diameter holes.
guitarman
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you can change the pins to CAT ! then use a bushing for the top link. just be sure your tractor will handle the 24" auger
Scrambler82
Veteran Member
Is it heavy duty ?
Is it worth the price ?
Is it worth the price ?
guitarman
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Sizes for different category hitches is cat 1. 3/4 on top link and 7/8 on lift link cat 2 is 1 inch on top 1 1/8 inch on lift
Rustyiron
Super Member
Dave I'll have to agree with 455dan on this one. Just like a wood auger bit. No matter how you drill/dig your "pilot" hole, you can't make it bigger with a auger bit, it' needs the center point to hold the bit where it's wanted and that material was removed with the pilot hole. Iirc cat 1 pins are 7/8" where cat 2 is 1 1/8" the width should be ok, you'll just have to adjust your lift arm stabilizers to fit.
LS Tractor Owner
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Good luck using a 24" auger on your 2025. I had a dirty hand tools model 100 with a 9" auger on my MT125 (25hp, 17 pto hp). It definitely took agile reactions to keep it from corkscrewing into the ground. Could only dig about 4-6" at a time, then lift to clear the hole, otherwise not enough power to pull it up. Did about 40 holes with it after I learned "a system" about how far I could go and at what speed.
Part of the lifting power problem was that I could not use the outermost holes on the arm (closest to the gearbox) that's where you get the most strength to lift. I had to use the second one closest to the tractor in order to get the auger high enough. The MT125 sits a lot lower than your 2025, so you may not have an issue with going with an outer hole.
For "undoing a corkscrew", make sure you move your pto lever (the one for mid /rear pto) into neutral position, otherwise you will also be fighting against the hydraulics. Also make sure the electric pto switch is off, and the engine is shut down. I used a large pipe wrench and a 3' length of 2" steel pipe for a cheeter bar. Usually a 1/4 to 1/2 turn popped it loose.
For planting trees, I found it easy to auger 3 or 4 holes right next to each other in a circle pattern, then just shovel out the remaining dirt left between the holes. Only going 20-24" deep, there won't be much dirt left in the hole.
When I sold my 125, the DHT PHD went with it. I found it to be a valuable tool, for both posts and planting trees. (I did plant over 200 trees/shrubs using a hand held auger). I'll never do that again! When I just purchased my XG3025, getting a PHD was a requirement. I still only went with a 9" auger. No stones/rock here, and no roots where I use it, just hard, hard, clay soil.
Part of the lifting power problem was that I could not use the outermost holes on the arm (closest to the gearbox) that's where you get the most strength to lift. I had to use the second one closest to the tractor in order to get the auger high enough. The MT125 sits a lot lower than your 2025, so you may not have an issue with going with an outer hole.
For "undoing a corkscrew", make sure you move your pto lever (the one for mid /rear pto) into neutral position, otherwise you will also be fighting against the hydraulics. Also make sure the electric pto switch is off, and the engine is shut down. I used a large pipe wrench and a 3' length of 2" steel pipe for a cheeter bar. Usually a 1/4 to 1/2 turn popped it loose.
For planting trees, I found it easy to auger 3 or 4 holes right next to each other in a circle pattern, then just shovel out the remaining dirt left between the holes. Only going 20-24" deep, there won't be much dirt left in the hole.
When I sold my 125, the DHT PHD went with it. I found it to be a valuable tool, for both posts and planting trees. (I did plant over 200 trees/shrubs using a hand held auger). I'll never do that again! When I just purchased my XG3025, getting a PHD was a requirement. I still only went with a 9" auger. No stones/rock here, and no roots where I use it, just hard, hard, clay soil.
LS Tractor Owner
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I agree with the previous posts, you should be able to switch out the cat 2 pins for cat 1, use a bushing for the arm into the top link mount. There is no way you could 'pilot hole' with the 9", and try to follow with the 24". It will be bouncing all over the place and something will break / someone will get hurt....
