Differential Lock

[cisco]

I expect the differential lock on most mid-sized Kubotas is placed the same - on my L3410 it's darn inconvenient. I like the extra leverage afforded by the custom made gismo.
As far as 4WD - it's actually 2WD X 2 in most 4WD cars, unless a limited slip differential is on the rear axle, and then it's only 3WD, like our tractors and my pick-up (locking differentials aren't common in cars - have to drive real slow, and can't turn on anything but a very slippery surface - most folks would not comply, and dealers would be swamped with repairs each winter).

 

[WALT]

I'm a little late with my 2 cents, but here goes:
I have a BX2200, with 650 hrs of use. Last winter, after moving to a new house with a steep driveway, I noticed the diff. lock was not engaging. The pedal went easily to the floor, but both rears were not locking.
I soon cracked the transmission case on a large rock, (subject of another post) and while that repair was done, the differenal lock fork was found in pieces in the bottom of the case. It has been repaired & working well.

To prevent you from a similar fate, here is some advice:
1. Engage the pedal with slow even pressure, until the pedal engages. It is similar to using a clutch pedal to change gears. Stomping on the pedal, on the smaller compact tractors, will bend or break the locking fork.
2. You can be in motion, but do not have one tire spinning and one tire stopped. ENGAGING now will probably break the fork as I did.
3. Anticipate the slick spots and engage the lock prior to spinning the tires.
4. Double check that you have engaged 4WD on your tractor.

As with any machine, I have found you need to get the feel of how the components engage, and soon you will have smooth operation.

Happy Tractoring:
WALT

 

[avorancher]

I'm either going to modify the pedal to give me more leverage or start eating a lot more fatty foods. Even with the seat belt tight, I have a hard time putting enough pressure on the pedal to engage it slowly.

When backing up a hill and the PTO engaged, I can actually kill the engine when I press on the pedal because my rear end (mine, not the tractor's) lack of weight allows the seat kill switch to kick in.

My tractor stays in 4wd nearly all the time as I have few level spots on my property. I'm getting good at puckering... maybe that is what is causing those rippled abs I see on TV!

I did use the Differential Lock last weekend after reading these posts and it does seem to work on the rear wheels as explained, so I don't think I've broken anything yet. Thanks for the warning though and I will take heed.

 

[JerryG]

There has been a lot of discussion on how to engage the differential lock here in the past. I know that the manuals show slight variations on how to do it. I have had to fix and or repair several of them. The way the gears are made, the only safe way to engage them is to completely stop the tires from turning, press firmly on the lever, then start movement slowly. If you do it this way you are greatly reducing the chance of needing to split your tractor.

 

[AndyMA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How rare are diff locks for the front axles (on tractors)? I can't think of seeing one. )</font>

Some of the New Holland TN series tractors with the Electro Hydro Power Shuttle have front differential locks, others have limited slip front differentials. Also the differential is locked on these TN's by flipping a small rocker switch. It has several modes, unlocked, stay locked, and remain locked until no longer needed. Indicators on the dash tell you what mode you're in. The same TN's also switch into 4WD when ever you break for additional braking power. After using a mechanical one for years, the switch to electro hydro is real nice.

Andy