Digging with loader?

[Soundguy]

Most rear scoops you can reverse, and thus use it like a pull pan.. wouldn't hurt to rippershank the area first if you already have the box blade..

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

My recommendation goes with the majority. I would never use my own loader (a Koyker 160) to dig in previously undisturbed soil. I'm pretty sure there was a good reason that manufacturers call it a loader - and not a digger.

If a four foot trench is sufficient, use a four foot box blade. I think you can adjust the TPH enough to dig one about a foot deep, maybe more. If you want something less than four feet wide (or deeper than a BB will go), go with the middle buster and a pond scoop.

You could hire it done, but the MB and scoop may come in handy in maintaining the trench - and any other small jobs that may come your way in the future.

//greg//

 

[Kratos]

My local dealer says he can hook me up with a 5 ft. box blade for $400 plus tax. He usually takes good care of me and I trust him. I am curious about what a scouper attachment looks like and where I would get one. I think the teeth on the box blade is a big plus though the ground should be pretty soft. Is there a link to read how I would use either of these tools to make this ditch? Thanks again, you guys are great.

 

[greg_g]

My local dealer says he can hook me up with a 5 ft. box blade for $400 plus tax. He usually takes good care of me and I trust him. I am curious about what a scouper attachment looks like and where I would get one. I think the teeth on the box blade is a big plus though the ground should be pretty soft. Is there a link to read how I would use either of these tools to make this ditch? Thanks again, you guys are great.

My local dealer says he can hook me up with a 5 ft. box blade for $400 plus tax.

No offense, but I wouldn't expect much box blade for $400. I would however, predict bent lift pins and A-frame damage long before the job is done. And whereas a five footer is ok behind your size tractor for road maintenance, etc - attempting the kind of job you've described would likely either stall the tractor - or cause a helluva lotta wheelspin. Probably hard on the clutch too. That's why I specified four footer earlier.

Some people call them pond scoops, others call them dirt scoops or rear scoops. Go here to see what a rear scoop looks like: Rural King Farm and Home Internet Store
or here for another design: A & B EAGLE LINE EQUIPMENT The Shield of Quality

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

I think he has a JM284: which is what I have and my 289 buck box blade has taken LOADS of abuse, bought it new when they closed out the "wallas brand."

does not have a removable blade but is heavy, I bent lift arms on the box when I backed into a stump when I had a loader full of rocks and was at WOT the stump didn't give but I lifted up blade dropped it over stump put it in ll2 and pulled away straightened 3~4" of bend out of the lift arms but still had a lot of damage to heat & beat out... the box was my 1st buy after getting TLB in from china... It has been most used 3pt implement too...

mark m

 

[Soundguy]

Sounding like he needs a 3pt scoop just so he can dig a 1' by 24" or 30" trench. Probably will be the easiest way he is gonna get it done.. etc.

Ripping it, or plowing it will deffinately help, no matter if he scoops or box blades it.. etc.

Soundguy

No offense, but I wouldn't expect much box blade for $400. I would however, predict bent lift pins and A-frame damage long before the job is done. And whereas a five footer is ok behind your size tractor for road maintenance, etc - attempting the kind of job you've described would likely either stall the tractor - or cause a helluva lotta wheelspin. Probably hard on the clutch too. That's why I specified four footer earlier.

Some people call them pond scoops, others call them dirt scoops or rear scoops. Go here to see what a rear scoop looks like: Rural King Farm and Home Internet Store
or here for another design: A & B EAGLE LINE EQUIPMENT The Shield of Quality

//greg//

 

[mjarrels]

There is a reason why they are called "loaders".

mark

 

[ToadHill]

I've been controlling water for 20 years with a 1 bottom plow. Just determine the direction you want it to flow and plow with the roll on the downhill side. All it takes to maintain is a trip down the trench each spring and fall with the front and rear tire running in the bottom of the ditch.

 

[Kratos]

The plow idea sounds pretty good, but we may get a lot more water in the Pacific Northwest. Then again, if I can just choose its path, I can let the water do the work (anyone ever seen the Grand Canyon).

The 5 ft. box blade that my local dealer said he would sell me for $400 is by JBar and he also has a scoop by the same company for $395.

 

[3RRL]

The plow idea sounds pretty good, but we may get a lot more water in the Pacific Northwest. Then again, if I can just choose its path, I can let the water do the work (anyone ever seen the Grand Canyon).

The 5 ft. box blade that my local dealer said he would sell me for $400 is by JBar and he also has a scoop by the same company for $395.

You are right on the mark.
I did a lot of gutter cutting by tilting my boxblade and just cutting a groove (gutter) that way. Once it started collecting water and flowing, the water made it a lot bigger. That will work good if you have any kind of slope to get it running.