Direction of flow from diverter valve

[J_J]

And for those of you with 30 minutes time and really really want to know how the regenerative (fast dump) position on your loader works and why. This will tell you all you want to know and them some.

Regenerative Extension - YouTube

Do you mean I did not explain it good enough. Thank you so much for pointing out I was so wrong. NOT..

 

[k0ua]

Do you mean I did not explain it good enough. Thank you so much for pointing out I was so wrong. NOT..

No, I just meant the You tube tutorial goes into great detail of the explanation of regenerative extension. It is 30 minutes long.

 

[k0ua]

It is so easy in this medium for peoples intentions to be misinterpreted.

 

[jcummins]

Not sure of the 'power'...but initial movement is slow...far right/left is fast, on mine.

Bottom line, you guys say switch the hose, and that does not work. I'm thinking I will somehow connect the hoses without and QDs, and test. Then the cylinder and the valve are the only two issues.

 

[J_J]

Just use a simple coupler like this. NPTF or JIC

Female Pipe Coupling (NPTF)

SAE 37° (JIC) Swivel Nut Union

 

[k0ua]

Not sure of the 'power'...but initial movement is slow...far right/left is fast, on mine.

Bottom line, you guys say switch the hose, and that does not work. I'm thinking I will somehow connect the hoses without and QDs, and test. Then the cylinder and the valve are the only two issues.

Try swaping the two hoses by unscrewing the QD's and leaving the QD's in the configuration that passes fluid and works, but now swap the hoses so that different hoses go to the QD's

 

[boggen]

an ugly attempt to draw how hoses / tees / valves connect

 

[boggen]

if you just connected everything, you may have "air" still inside the new Grappel cylinders, and when messing around with the bucket cylinders and hoses back to the valves, you may also have gotten air inside those cylinders and hoses. you may need to operate the grappel and bucket cylinders multi times. by simply fully extending cylinders out and then fully contracting the cylinders in multi times. to clear the cylinders and hoses of air. you may need to shut down tractor and let it set for a couple hours, as the air that was removed from cylinders and hoses gets mixed up in the hyd oil and it takes time for the air to bubble itself out inside the hyd oil reservoir tank. it may take a few attempts to clear out all the air. and double checking after each attempt (shutting tractor down and waiting) if your hyd oil tank is up to level that it should be.

air in the cylinders / hoses. can cause cylinders not to extend / contract like they are suppose to regardless if under a load or not under a load.

HINT: take a look at the hyd oil in the resevior tank before starting tractor, and then after you operate the bucket curl and grapple cylinders a few times. "enough tiems to get oil to cycle through cylinders hoses, valves, and pump and tank. the oil might look milky in color from very tinny air bubbles mixed into the hyd oil.

 

[kennyd]

Ball type or poppet type? I had problems with the ball type about 10-15% of the time. And even though they are suppose to be compatible-interchangeable with the poppet type, apparently this is not always true. I gave up on the ball type and only use the poppet type now. All is good. :thumbsup:

I've seen the same thing Brian, I do not recommend mixing ball and poppet types either.

JC, here's an older thread that explains the regen functionality pretty good also: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/9403-3-position-valve-vs-4-a.html

 

[J_J]

You really don't need QD's from the diverter to the grapple. Grapple hose with JIC fittings with swivel would work just fine.