Direction of flow from diverter valve

jcummins · Jun 30, 2014

Well....you guys ain't going to believe it.

Eliminated the QDs using a pipe to pipe coupler like J_J mentioned. Tested, everything worked, except it was still backwards from the way I want it to work. Switched the hoses at the diverter...grapple stop working, no open...no close...you can see the lines pressure up since I haven't secured them to the tractor.

WHAT THE #$%^&^%$#$% is wrong here??

IF...I change any other hose other than the ones coming out of the top of the diverter, I'll have an effect on the curl function....Now, it's the valve, which I doubt since I see the lines pressure up, unless the return on one port is not right....OR it's the cylinder. This is a NAI grapple....exactly like this one, but beefed up with 1/2" steel. Root Grapple Attachment - Light Duty - NAI

Xfaxman · Jun 30, 2014

Put everything back so it works, but is backwards from what you want.

Then swap the two hoses that I added the arrows to.

If that doesn't work, something is plumbed wrong.

Post some pictures of the hose connections at the grapple.

You posted while I was typing.

Did you swap the hoses that I indicated?

jcummins · Jun 30, 2014

Yep...when I say I switched the hoses at the diverter....it is those hoses switched the way you describe, that I'm switching. Those two hoses go straight to the grapple cylinder.

Remember...the grapple WORKS just fine, I just want the joystick functions reversed.

Xfaxman · Jun 30, 2014

Can you post the schematic of the diverter valve? I couldn't find it online.

MtnViewRanch · Jun 30, 2014

Xfaxman said:
Can you post the schematic of the diverter valve? I couldn't find it online.

Fluid goes in from the left side. With the valve not actuated,(default) fluid goes out the right side. With the valve actuated, fluid then exits the center.http://www.hydraulicstore.com/images/pdf/Trausch_Dynamics_Selectplus.pdf Scroll down to step 3 for diagram.

jcummins · Jun 30, 2014

No I don't. Got the valve from Brain (MtnViewRanch), I messaged him on this lastest test for his input. He would be the one to have a schematic if anyone has.

I need to go out and verify....but think I'm right. The grapple after switching the lines was closed. I activated with joystick left, to close the grapple....the action I want...and pretty sure I saw ONE line jump, which would be correct since the cylinder is fully extended. When I tested with joystick to the right, to open...I don't recall the any lines moving. I need to go take some more pictures, and retest that point.

jcummins · Jun 30, 2014

The switch on the valve, is just make/break, doesn't matter which side the power comes from...right?

BukitCase · Jun 30, 2014

I have two of those diverters - in the pic xfaxman marked up, the hoses from the loader control valve should be coming into the two ports on the RIGHT, marked P1 and P2. The two hoses continuing on to the loader tilt cylinders should be connected to the two ports on the LEFT, marked C1 and C4.

The two grapple hoses should go to ports C2 and C3. (the two SIDE ports, NOT across from each other)

If you swapped either of the side port hoses (from one side to the other) or BOTH of them, actuating the solenoid would DEADHEAD the flow from loader control valve, which sounds like the symptoms you describe.

Make sure BOTH hoses from the loader curl circuit go to P1 and P2, BOTH hoses from the curl cylinders go to C1 and C4, and BOTH hoses from the grapple go to C2 and C3.

This should work, but MAY be backward to what you want the grapple to do. Generally, it's more intuitive to have the valve lever pull inward to curl, out to dump - in to grab, out to release.

If, after you make sure all hoses are where I listed them, the grapple is backward - THEN you can swap the two hoses xfaxman drew arrows to. (Just re-read his post, missed the part about getting it to work, sorry)

Electrical - you can ground one pin and switch +12 from battery to the other. Depending on your switch, you may want to add a "quenching" diode across the coil to damp the inductive spike when the circuit is opened - Usually the BANDED end of a diode is its negative terminal - this would go to the +, switched terminal. Without it, your switch may last for about 5 or 10 cycles then die.

HTH... Steve

MtnViewRanch · Jun 30, 2014

jcummins said:
The switch on the valve, is just make/break, doesn't matter which side the power comes from...right?

There are 3 connection points for the wiring. You only use the left and right connection points. You do not use the center point. It does not matter what is hot and what is ground, just as long as you only use those 2 points to connect.

Did you look at the link that I posted for the fluid flow diagram? I assume that is how you have the diverter plumbed??? :confused3:

BukitCase · Jun 30, 2014

Brian, have you had any instances of failed switches if no quench diode is used? Been doing this type stuff for the last 45 years, and sometimes it makes a difference - other times, not so much... Steve