DIY Bridge

   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I had a similar problem to yours. Not quite as big, but similar. Ended up doing it 3 times before I got it right.
Totally agree with Spike56 to get your county storm water dept out there to eyeball it, and see what they say.
If the water gets to 4' deep, in 2"-3" rainstorms, then a bridge may indeed, be a better and cheaper (long term) solution.
Have considered having the creek bed dug out, pouring concrete ‘buttress’ walls on each side and then pouring a thick concrete slab over the buttress walls to drive over but I don’t think it will support heavy equipment. Thanks for comments.
 
   / DIY Bridge #22  
How wide is it if the crossing is perpendicular, not diagonal?

1673025944174.png
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Others have used sem-trailers in bridge costruction. Not sure if that would meet your specs.
I’ve seen where folks have used retired train cars to span the gap but they’re too much for my budget. Thanks for comments.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#24  
How wide is it if the crossing is perpendicular, not diagonal?

View attachment 778022
Part of the problem is, over the last 20 years, the creek has moved a bit. It used to just flow across the drive after heavy rains. Now water runs and hits my driveway at the east end (bank) of the drive then doglegs west, with half the water turning south after about 30 ft and the rest of the water running down my drive 40-50’ before running south. I have an easement 30 ft wide X about 200 ft to the county road. The creek has another dogleg to the east just after my easement. That property owners has told me that I can have the area dredged to help with the flow.
Thanks for commenting.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#25  
If the upstream creek runs thru a wooded area, it's just a matter of time until culverts are blocked by sticks, then leaves, during a gully-washer.
That’s another reason why I am willing to use a 3ft culvert instead of a 2ft. I can keep a 3ft cleaned out better than a 2ft.
Thanks for commenting.
 
   / DIY Bridge #26  
It looks like you are crossing it at an angle... is that correct? Can you go upstream or downstream to find a narrower place with higher banks to cross? It may cost a bit more to move the road but it is the only access to your home, after all.

We build a lot of bridges using concrete waste blocks for embankments; simply poured blocks, 2x2 feet by 4 or six feet wide. They also are stackable if you want to go higher. That gives you something solid to build on. We often use wooden mats to cross them, made of 16 foot long 12'x12" timbers bolted together.

Looking at your pictures, any culvert is just going to wash out... personally I hate doing a job twice.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Is a bridge not an option? Pretty easy to engineer and build a 10-12' span that can hold concrete trucks and heavier. The cross sectional area for water flow under such a bridge would be immensely more than your listed culverts.
I don’t know what sort of materials I would need to make a bridge. Know nothing about the strength of concrete when it comes to spanning any distances. I agree the an open channel will flow better than a low water crossing with culverts.
Thanks for commenting.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#28  
It looks like you are crossing it at an angle... is that correct? Can you go upstream or downstream to find a narrower place with higher banks to cross? It may cost a bit more to move the road but it is the only access to your home, after all.

We build a lot of bridges using concrete waste blocks for embankments; simply poured blocks, 2x2 feet by 4 or six feet wide. They also are stackable if you want to go higher. That gives you something solid to build on. We often use wooden mats to cross them, made of 16 foot long 12'x12" timbers bolted together.

Looking at your pictures, any culvert is just going to wash out... personally I hate doing a job twice.
I hate doing things twice myself, especially when there’s money involved. Those culverts aren’t cheap. I’m too old and out of shape to enjoy the exercise I’d get.
The water does turn at my drive. I know the first thing I’ll need to do is have the creek bed dredged out & straightened to help with the flow& possibly use some rip rap to shore up the banks.
Thanks for commenting.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#29  
If you put in to large of culverts, you wasted $500*... If they are too small, them you buy bigger ones and start over and see $5000* washed away. Go big the 1st time.

* not real numbers.
24”X20’ culvert cost $550.00ea
36”X20’ culvert cost$1300.00 ea
Nothing’s cheap or affordable,
 
   / DIY Bridge #30  
Bridge construction isn’t cheap and nature is unforgiving.

See used steel logging bridges for creeks. Keeping out of water a bigger deal now. They even provide installation if you need. Quick, substantial but $$$
 
   / DIY Bridge #31  
Designing bridge that goes over a creek has been changing its bed exceeds my pay grade. Good luck!
 
   / DIY Bridge #32  
I hate doing things twice myself, especially when there’s money involved. Those culverts aren’t cheap. I’m too old and out of shape to enjoy the exercise I’d get.
The water does turn at my drive. I know the first thing I’ll need to do is have the creek bed dredged out & straightened to help with the flow& possibly use some rip rap to shore up the banks.
Thanks for commenting.
I can have a bridge built to span a 10-12 foot stream for around $3-4000. That's a few hours with an excavator, 4 waste blocks for abutments; a load of stone for rip rap; and three "skidder mats" to span the stream with. If you need to go higher than 2 feet it will cost a bit more; another $300 for blocks, Geotek or something else to use as a "deadman", and a bit more time for the excavator. You may also need a load or two of gravel. That is the route I would take based on the pictures you posted. Do that and be done with it.
 
   / DIY Bridge #33  
Designing bridge that goes over a creek has been changing its bed exceeds my pay grade. Good luck!
looking at his pictures it appears that he is crossing at an angle. If so that is part of the problem.
 
   / DIY Bridge #34  
24”X20’ culvert cost $550.00ea
36”X20’ culvert cost$1300.00 ea
Nothing’s cheap or affordable,
Remember that at saturation the 3 foot culvert allows more water through than (2) 24" culverts. [1017 sq ft vs (2x 452 sq ft.)]

Based on the pictures you've posted though, they both will blow out at saturation.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#35  
FWIW, creek beds usually wash out to a size that naturally handles the flow of water including seasonally heavy flows. I'd be very cautious about putting anything into a creek bed that obstructs the natural channel because one has to assume that the creek bed is the size it is because of the water flowing through it over time.
I’ve followed this dry creek bed about 5 miles. Above me there are 3 places where this creek & smaller creeks feeding into it cross the road. Each crossing has a low water concrete slab. The largest crossing is maybe 30 ft. The reason it’s so wide at my drive is because of it jogging west, east and then west again. I think just cleaning up the creek bed and taking the turns out will help tremendously.
What is FWIW mean? Thanks for commenting.
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I can have a bridge built to span a 10-12 foot stream for around $3-4000. That's a few hours with an excavator, 4 waste blocks for abutments; a load of stone for rip rap; and three "skidder mats" to span the stream with. If you need to go higher than 2 feet it will cost a bit more; another $300 for blocks, Geotek or something else to use as a "deadman", and a bit more time for the excavator. You may also need a load or two of gravel. That is the route I would take based on the pictures you posted. Do that and be done with it.
I’d be very willing to have the work done for that amount of money. I figured 40 tons of rock and maybe 20 yds3 of concrete. The culvert pipe is $2600, for the two pipe. Do you do this kind of work or know someone in my area that does?
 
   / DIY Bridge
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I had a similar problem to yours. Not quite as big, but similar. Ended up doing it 3 times before I got it right.
Totally agree with Spike56 to get your county storm water dept out there to eyeball it, and see what they say.
If the water gets to 4' deep, in 2"-3" rainstorms, then a bridge may indeed, be a better and cheaper (long term) solution.
The question I need to ask is, how did you do it the last time to solve the issue?
 
   / DIY Bridge #40  
A map of the county road, your drive, the main creek and feeder creeks would be helpful. (an areal view, Microsoft Paint drawing, or a sketch on the back of a napkin.
 

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