chim
Elite Member
Hyd - mec is serious saw material..... ....................................... If the cab extends past the fenders how are you going to fill the space between the fender and the steel structure ? Your post proves one does not have to be a professional metals person to construct a cab.
Thanks guys. That saw is awesome. It has a hydraulic vise that grabs the material being cut with the flick of a lever. Another lever raises and lowers the saw.
The amount of sealing things will depend on how much heat leaks out / cold leaks in. The cab fits fairly tight across the back. I filled under the seat with a piece of "cow mat" cut to fit pretty closely. The sides do have about 3/8 of an inch between the cab and the upper part of the fender. These areas will probably get some of that stick-on foam weatherstripping stuck to the cab.
As the fender curves down the gap increases quite a bit. For the curved part of the framing I used 1/2 x 1 steel tube because it seemed a better candidate for bending than the 1 x 1 the rest is made from. The 1/2 x 1 follows the curve of the fender closely enough I plan to fasten a strip of conveyor belt or similar material to the bottom of the 1/2 x 1. Sort of an ingrown fender flare. That would leave about 1/4" gap between the top of the rubber to the bottom edge of the fender. If it's too drafty maybe a few slices of a "memory foam" mattress topper we no longer use will help.
Things are being laid out to avoid contact between the cab and tractor as best I can. When the cab is removed in the spring the tractor shouldn't have rub marks and scratches.
There are some hurdles to go, but you're correct about not needing to be a professional to build a cab. A lot of research of old threads and noting the successes and pitfalls of others who have been there before me really helped. It was still intimidating to pull the Kubota into the shop and look at the cart of metal that was supposed to be a cab.