DIY Tractor Cab - Best materials and practices

[RancherSam]

I want to use this thread to get a consensus on what materials to use to build a tractor cab. I can start by saying that according to this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/68903-sweet-home-built-bx-tractor.html

a good framing material is 1" square tubing, 14ga?

They also used floor underlayment for the skin and lexan for the glass. What are the pros and cons o f these? We need to get together a parts list here. We need links to a heater and an air conditioner that can be fitted in the cab. I think we have the knowledge here, I want one thread to all the links to the right parts and why they should be used.

 

[2manyrocks]

If you could afford it, you could build the whole cab out of polycarbonate instead of just the windows. But it would get scratched up after a while, and you can't touch it up with paint to make it look good again. Now if you were handy with fiberglas, you could make the cab out of it. But it's messy to work with. Then there's metal, but you need a sheet metal brake. Then there's the vinyl type fabric they use on popup campers that would make a good windbreak if you wanted to take the cover off during the sumner.

I think each of us builds with what is familar to us and we feel like we can work with given our experience, tools, time and money.

 

[RancherSam]

you'd want as much transparent material as possible for your cab. Visibility and environmental awareness is essential on a tractor.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

DTAC - Heavy Equipment Heat/Cool Systems for heater ac units for all types of heavy equipment.
TheWarBirds had good prices on 12 and 18k btu heater units 12v and 24v.

Lexan or "margard" is good if you want plastic windows, glassis hard to beat if you want scratch resistant
Ken

 

[diyDave]

Most rigid clear plastics get pretty brittle in cold weather. When I enclosed the cab of my ASV, I made a steel door with 2 old windows, made of tempered glass windows, out of the back of an old utility body truck. The walls I made out of the plastic material that they make rear convertible windows out of. I used snap fittings to hold the soft plastic to the sides of the cab. Good luck on your project!

 

[skippy957]

You can also use a old soft cab and modify it like I have done with a Curtis.
Good luck with your project and have fun .

 

[PILOON]

I made a cab for my Mitsubishi MT180D using 2 x 2 sq tubing.
I then attached galvanized sheet (as I did not want 'rustable' finish) with metal screws.
For windows I got school bus windows from doors as they came with the rubber seals (real cheep as scrappers want metal and not glass) and the safety glass does not scratch.
For heater (again school bus) the small heaters that are under the rear seats (about 6" X 6" x 3") to which I attached a 4" x4" 12 volt computer fan as that is super compact and draws less than 1 amp. (the old bus motor draws so much that you'd run the battery flat in no time at all!)

I mounted the heater top right in my cab so as to send hot air downwards (I like warm feet) and it is easy to deflect with a small baffle towards the windshield.

One advantage of schoolbus glass is that you can now install wipers

Sure my cab is 'boxy', but it is also 'toasty comfy'.

Was blowing today in -20deg Celsius and was real cozy!

This setup was made about 5 years ago and performed flawlessly ever since.

Pics are posted in Mitsubishi forum.

NB: before metal screwing the roof on, I 'sanwitched' an insulation 'blanket' to A deaden sound (drumming, essentially) and B to prevent condensation drippings.

 

[MJPetersen]

Piloon,

You ought to put a link to your pics in the Mitubishi forum. I will do it for you and the others who want to see what you did.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/91494-anyone-built-tractor-cab-2.html#post1036405

Looks well used and if it keeps your feet warm it is a double plus--functional does not have to be beautiful.

Mike

 

[Zick]

You can also use a old soft cab and modify it like I have done with a Curtis.
Good luck with your project and have fun .

Dam Skippy that looks nice!

 

[SkunkWerX]

Here are some of the pros and cons I have considered regarding materials.

The square tube is probably the best way to go about the framing.

Lexan vs. glass: Lexan is pretty durable and doesn't scratch as badly as plain old "plexi" glass. over a long time it will cloud up some, more if you keep it out in the sun. The big plus is it's weight. Compared to glass it's going to be much lighter.
if you plan on ever using a windshield wiper, then the front needs to be tmepered glass. A wiper will scuff and scratch lexan, So that pretty much dictates a glass front windshield.

I read about the underlayment used along with lexan, and that Cab came out beautifully. My experience with underlayment (tempered hardboard) is if you leave it in the elements, or it gets wet, it will bubble, blister, and eventually start deteriorating. A light gauge sheet metal would the choice for the longest lasting material , but, as mentioned above, you might have condensation issues to deal with. The PVC lumber is getting plentiful, and I am wondering if there isn't some kind of lightweight synthetic sheet material that might work well?
I would consider making as much of it as possible out of the lexan, for maximum visibility.

 

[TBDonnelly]

I read about the underlayment used along with lexan, and that Cab came out beautifully. My experience with underlayment (tempered hardboard) is if you leave it in the elements, or it gets wet, it will bubble, blister, and eventually start deteriorating. A light gauge sheet metal would the choice for the longest lasting material , but, as mentioned above, you might have condensation issues to deal with. The PVC lumber is getting plentiful, and I am wondering if there isn't some kind of lightweight synthetic sheet material that might work well?
I would consider making as much of it as possible out of the lexan, for maximum visibility.

The thought behind the cab with the underlayment sides (vs. sheet metal)was to create a thermal break. This particular tractor/cab is stored inside a metal shed or garage. It's now two years old and the underlayment has held up well so far. The underlayment was thoroughly primed and painted prior to installation.

Don

 

[bird1968]

I've also started with a factory softcab, as skippy.

I've use lexan & aluminum.

 

[skippy957]

There is the cab that I start with.

 

[skippy957]

outside vew.

 

[skippy957]

from inside.
cd player, fan, cab heater, light...

 

[PILOON]

Thanks Mike, should have one it myself.

 

[SkunkWerX]

The thought behind the cab with the underlayment sides (vs. sheet metal)was to create a thermal break. This particular tractor/cab is stored inside a metal shed or garage. It's now two years old and the underlayment has held up well so far. The underlayment was thoroughly primed and painted prior to installation.

Don

TBD, thanks for the info.

I was even going to say ....if the underlayment was treated (saturated) with a weather protectant, that may do the job very well. Storage is the other key. Some folks may not have the nice indoor option, so, for them, they would need to really think about sun and moisture issues while in storage, and even if their machines sit outside.

The thermal break idea is a good one. underlayment is priced right, and super easy to work with, so, as long as it can be made to hold up, it's a good way to go.

I use tempered hardboard when woodworking to make patterns, it's good stuff, just needs to be mentioned that it can go bad in the elements.

 

[2manyrocks]

Some campers are essentially made of an aluminum skin to which foam is bonded and then the inside is a luan product to protect the foam.

The idea of using materials from an old school bus is highly resourceful.

Doesn't look like anybody is advocating a soft sided cab so far, but nearly anything that keeps the cold wind and the rain off the operator while allowing the operator to see what he's doing is an improvement over getting soaked and cold.

I never thought much about a cab until I ran over a nest of ground bees, either.

 

[escavader]

ALTHOUGH my cab isnt started yet,i use cabbed rough terrian lift trucks every day.I think a good practice is using strong materials so one isnt crushed in a roll over.Yet on a compact,or sub compact one doesnt want to get top heavy either.choose your design and materials with this in mind.Ive been hemming and hawing for months,and im about to begin.
Another thought i have is build your cab for 4 seasons,either ac or removable doors and windows,leaving a roof for shade and rain protection.Design the cab so it can be removed easily in case of some magor work,like a transmition change etc.
just my2cents
ALAN

 

[RancherSam]

What thickness of lexan do you guys recommend? 1/2 in? Also what's the best ( read cheapest ) source online and off ( b&m stores )? I'm trying to price everything out.