DK40 front bearing failure @ 1300 hours

[chuck172]

At about 1000 hrs. on my DK40, I'd like to inspect/ possibly replace my front wheel bearings and seals.
Any good advice or pictorials?

 

[JimR]

At about 1000 hrs. on my DK40, I'd like to inspect/ possibly replace my front wheel bearings and seals.
Any good advice or pictorials?

Why, Just put the bucket down to lift up the front end and check the wheels to see if they are loose. Spin them to make sure they feel smooth when turning. I just turned 1200 hours on my NX4510 and the front end feels fine. My loader gets used a lot.

 

[JimR]

I spoke too soon about my tractor. Now at 1259 hours on my NX4510HST I have a front wheel seeping oil slightly. The hub is tight. Looks like I will be doing the wheel seal and both bearings while it is apart. Probably a good idea to do both sides.

 

[Dman1981]

easy check on oil change pull
Plug silver oil you got issues
My weed abatement guy puts 500 miles on his kubotas every year Put in synthetic oil and lost me a lot of money
But he is happier

 

[MotorSeven]

I'm baaaaack...right side axle seal leaking again....yay!

 

[MotorSeven]

Starting to think the axle tube is damaged, this is getting old. I am not lifting anything but hay & always in 2wd.

 

[southerniltractor]

Starting to think the axle tube is damaged, this is getting old. I am not lifting anything but hay & always in 2wd.

Ouch! The older I get, the less I enjoy equipment problems.

Your dealer did the work last time, correct? Outside of my local mower shop, I've had nothing but disappointment in equipment and vehicle service providers. Due to my distrust of Hyundai service department(s), I'll soon be rebooting a CV joint on my still under warranty car. It is so difficult to find good service.

Please keep us updated and take lots of pictures, as I'll be doing this repair as preventative maintenance once my tractor hits 1000 hours.

Good luck!

 

[dfkrug]

Due to my distrust of Hyundai service department(s), I'll soon be rebooting a CV joint on my still under warranty car. It is so difficult to find good service.

Old thread, but very important. I am going to lift and inspect my front hubs to see if they spin freely with no noise or wobble. At nearing 1100 hours, and soon to be 20yo, my Kioti has been great. I have lifted and moved hundreds of logs, sometimes only an inch or so off the ground, at the very limits on my capacity. I dread changing that 140 weight gear oil in there.

Since I bought my first car in the 70s, I have always done all my own repairs. Recently bought a Hyundai Ioniq HEV that had "free" maintenance for 3 years. I took it in for a software update (not free!), and they told me an oil change would be 2-3 hours. I left.

 

[grsthegreat]

mine is still tight and leak free since the repair...knock on wood.

 

[Robin Veerman]

I dread changing that 140 weight gear oil in there

I’m Not sure why. Remove plugs and let drain while having coffee, or a beer with lunch. Replace plugs and refill with gear lube.
Oh….it’s not free though

 

[MinnesotaEric]

That looks like a portal, so easily serviced. Pop the bolts out of the top, use one bolt as a jack bolt to pop the top cover off, and you'll be looking at the bevel gears and bevel shaft.

I don't think I'd bother replacing the gears unless there is a real chunk missing. Too bad about the backside of the portal housing has a chunk missing where it looks like to my eye the bevel gear grabbed a loose bearing and took it for a ride.

 

[dfkrug]

I dread changing that 140 weight gear oil in there

I’m Not sure why. Remove plugs and let drain while having coffee, or a beer with lunch. Replace plugs and refill with gear lube.
Oh….it’s not free though

It is not the draining, it is the filling that is tedious. Even 90W gear oil takes a while since the fill hole is not large. I will not use 140 again cuz it takes so long.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Gotcha. Why not use a 75-140? Covers a wider range of temperatures too…

 

[dfkrug]

Gotcha. Why not use a 75-140? Covers a wider range of temperatures too…

That stuff is very thick at room temp, and my axles take a LOT.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Use a synthetic then….but not cheap for sure

 

[Billrog]

That stuff is very thick at room temp, and my axles take a LOT.

Over a 1,000 hrs. on my tractor with trans hydraulic in the front end with O problems so far. Replaced many seal and bearings in the past with gear oil so thought it wouldn't hurt yo give it a try. It works good in the planitary's on my backhoe and excavator so why not my tractors front end.

 

[MotorSeven]

Replaced a coil on the zero turn today then mowed.

Might look at the DK tomorrow & if the bearings are ok, maybe a flush and replace axle seal is only needed. Will update soon.......

 

[northcreek2624]

I run tractor fluid in the front diff of my 2002 DK40 (as OEM)and I'm surprised that I didn't suffer the same fate as motorseven. I don't know how many trips I made hauling full loads of creek shale up a 90' gorge on a 30-40 degree incline. Only part I ever needed was a tach cable $7.00......love this tractor.

 

[MotorSeven]

Well, the inner bearings are ok, outer is trashed. Now I will have to pull the LF too, check the bearings there and flush everything. Headed to a bearing place today to see if they can match them(OEM bearing is $54.34ea). The OEM oil seals (floating seal assembly) list for $85.87(one side).......both rings on the RF are intact, so I think I am going to just find some O-rings that size.

Maybe the issue is slightly damaged hubs, or maybe it needs a bevel gear adjustment? Looking at the manual, a bevel gear adjustment is a bit intimidating. All I know for sure that something 'aint right'.

_No go at the bearing place, close but no banana.

 

[MotorSeven]

Plot thickens....bearing that failed is marked Chi-na.....other bearing(that did not fail) is Korea.

And folks this is why I usually do my own work........