DK40 front bearing failure @ 1300 hours

[caver]

Is the seal assy a Kioti exclusive part? Does it need to be replaced if doing a preventive maintenance on swapping the bearings? My DK40 has about 500? hours on it but I have moved many heavy logs around that I know were overloading the front end.

 

[grsthegreat]

Supposed to be replaced if replacing bearings. If i had done beatings and seals at 1000 hours like suggested here, id have saved $800.

 

[5030]

The radial seal really needs renewed anytime you disassemble the outboards, same with Kubota. The issue is, just one small nick in the sealing area or a tiny speck of dirt will cause it to weep.

 

[MotorSeven]

Guess who is back with another axle bearing failure?

I forgot to look, but I think I am at 1900 hrs. Between 1300 and 1900, I have been pretty easy on the old girl with 4x4 and 5x5 hay bales the heaviest load. Graded the driveway today after a turd floater rain yesterday, took about 40 min. Was on the pavement headed back to the tractor shed when......"Screech"........"Screech"......etc.

I dropped the grader blades and forks, loaded it onto my trailer. Will pull the wheels off there and see what I have. If damage is significant, it goes to a dealer. I am kinda miffed.....1300 hrs of hard use, now three bearing failures in 600 hrs. I do know that after the first failure I did not do both bearings and flush the metal particles out of the axle tube(hey, I didn't know any better). But, the last repair flushed everything and replaced all bearings again....so it should have been good.

I agree, tapered roller bearings might be a better way to go. I replaced neck ball bearings in two of my bikes that caused the deadly handlebar shake with tapered.....problem solved.

 

[5030]

I fail to comprehend why builders like Kubota and Kioti and others don't use tapered roller bearings in the outboards like Builders like John Deere and CNH and others use on the larger tractors. Even my M9's have ball bearing outboards though I've never had an issue with either, probably because I run 85-140 GL5 gear oil in the front axles and outboards and check the fluid levels regularly.

 

[Billrog]

I when through seals and bearings every 600 hrs. for a while with my first 2 tractors when over loading the front end constantly hauling and loading logs. I changed the gear oil regularly. I now use trans hydraulic in this tractor for 700 hrs. so far and know the lubrication will be much better during winter. I still haul plenty of logs and move gravel for muddy spots on some of the trails.

 

[5030]

I when through seals and bearings every 600 hrs. for a while with my first 2 tractors when over loading the front end constantly hauling and loading logs. I changed the gear oil regularly. I now use trans hydraulic in this tractor for 700 hrs. so far and know the lubrication will be much better during winter. I still haul plenty of logs and move gravel for muddy spots on some of the trails.

The reason why I use 85-140 versus the factory fill of (in my case SUDT) is, both of my M9's are used for farming and having and hauling 4x5 1000 pound plus hay bales across fields and loading on semi trailers imparts a heavy shock load to the front axles and 85-140 is much better at absorbing shock loads than. SUDT or UDT for that matter and with 6000 hours and 4000 hours on them respectively and no bearing or seal issues at all, I'd say it's peachy.

Not that I use FWA because I don't. Front axles are always freewheeling.

 

[JimR]

The reason why I use 85-140 versus the factory fill of (in my case SUDT) is, both of my M9's are used for farming and having and hauling 4x5 1000 pound plus hay bales across fields and loading on semi trailers imparts a heavy shock load to the front axles and 85-140 is much better at absorbing shock loads than. SUDT or UDT for that matter and with 6000 hours and 4000 hours on them respectively and no bearing or seal issues at all, I'd say it's peachy.

Not that I use FWA because I don't. Front axles are always freewheeling.

I run 85w - 140 in my NX4510hst also. I'm at 1100+ hours. Probably 25% of those hours are with a heavy load of logs on forks, bucket loads of wood and loads of rock. So far so good without any front bearing issues. I feel the heavier the oil the better the lubrication when carrying heavy loads.

 

[DieselBound]

While viscosity is [the] most important thing, additives can play a significant role.

What You Need to Know When Selecting Gear Oils

I'd think that this bit is key (heavy loads, slow speeds and shock loading):

Antiscuff (Extreme Pressure) Gear Lubricants​

Antiscuff gear lubricants, commonly referred to as extreme pressure (EP) lubricants, have some performance capabilities that exceed those for R&O oils. In addition to the properties listed for R&O lubricants, antiscuff lubricants contain special additives that enhance their film strength or load-carrying ability.

The most common EP additives are sulfur phosphorous, which are chemically active compounds that alter the chemistry of machine surfaces to prevent adhesive wear under boundary lubrication conditions.

In less severe applications, antiwear additives may also be used to provide wear protection under boundary lubrication conditions. Machine conditions that generally require antiscuff gear lubricants include heavy loads, slow speeds and shock loading.

 

[MotorSeven]

I must be betting lazy....dropped it off at my local dealer to do. I just have other projects that need attention, first on the list is framing and pouring 2 sets of concrete stairs, each 12' long down at our swimming hole.

We had a bank erosion project completed last year. 300' of creek bank and 120 tons of rip rap. To reach the swimming hole right now you have to crawl down over the steep boulders, risking a snapped ankle or worse.