Do I go with R4' or Turf tires?

   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #41  
The debate could go on forever.

BTW, which came first, the chicken or the egg?
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #42  
The debate could go on forever.

BTW, which came first, the chicken or the egg?


Chickens used to have babies live. The trouble was that the babies would jump out of the egg cartons. One of chickens had an "ah-hah" moment when she looked at the shape of the carton wells and thought of more efficient packaging. You'd be surprised how many people don't know this and keep asking the same above question.
 
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   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #43  
Hah, I got past a thousand posts. I used to be a "platinum"member and now I'm a "veteran" I think I should be a "rhodium"
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires?
  • Thread Starter
#44  
I'll shut this down now - If going with the B29020 going with the standard turf tires and if need be in winter for blowing snow will chain up all four tires. Thanks for all the input.
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #45  
I would chain the rear tires,and if yo wanted little more bit later on than chain the front...how steep your driveway and would ice be problem?
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #46  
The only folks truley happy with R-4 tires are those who use them for the "industrial" usage for which they were designed. Almost any CUT operator would be better served off the lawn with R1's or on it with turfs. R4's do a sloppy job in both places but are bit better than R1's on the lawn and better than turfs, off of it. It sounds to me like turfs and a set of chains would be the best choice for your application.
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #47  
I agree with wolc123. R4 tires will carry more weight but that's about the only advantage. I had a set on my current tractor and swapped them for turfs - much better traction in snow.
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #48  
Funny thing is, we are all comparing apples to oranges. Not all tires are created equal. Even among the major subgroups, there are many variations. My Ford 1510 came with the old Firestone Turf and Field R3 tires, which, sadly are no longer available. I replaced the fronts with Carlisle, which are fine, but the spacing between the lugs are much finer, thus, they clog easier. Then there are diamond treads, bar turfs, etc... These various tread adaptations all had the expressed purpose of operating on a lawn with minimum damage to the lawn. Of course traction would be a secondary concern, as these were meant as a lawn care tire, but the different tread patterns within this group will perform differently under different conditions. The compact utility tractor demands more out of a tire than a lawn mower typically would.

The R4 tire has been designed from the get go to be very slash and puncture resistant when operating under heavy loads typical of heavy construction equipment. This requires them to have thick, stiff sidewalls and even thicker treads. Typically a harder rubber compound would also be expected to be used for this very purpose. Thick, wide tread bars would be a logical choice for construction equipment that would be expected to drive all over broken up concrete, twisted metal and broken glass, as well as nails, screws and other errata. Was traction the primary objective? Of course not. But it had to bee "good enough" to get the job done. Once again, different variations within this group have attempted to address the traction issues for the ever expanding role of the compact utility tractor.

Same holds true with R1. Many variations within this design. All have merit based on their designated design objectives. Maximum traction was the primary consideration, as these directional tread tires had one specific goal in mind: Pull heavy ground engaging implements through the earth. Different variations have been introduced within this category to address different soil types. Do they all perform the same? Of course not, but they do pull better than the other two major types. Of course, the obvious drawbacks are lower load capacity when using a FEL and the tendency to tear up the lawn. Of course, the tire manufacturers have been addressing these issues with different ply ratings and tread widths. Once again, no two are alike.

I guess my point is the CUT has blurred the lines of traditional purpose built machinery into something that does everything. Designing a tire that will truly do everything best is an impossible task, and as such, the tire manufacturers really have their work cut out for them. All R1's are not created equal, nor are all R3's or R4's; and to say all R3's have better/worse traction than all R4's would be ridiculous. The best we can do is find the compromise that works best for our particular needs.

Joe
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #49  
I'll shut this down now - If going with the B29020 going with the standard turf tires and if need be in winter for blowing snow will chain up all four tires. Thanks for all the input.

FYI - that was my plan for my L4200, which has balding turfs on it. This is my second season with running a rear-mount blower. I've been running in 4WD with nasty 2-link v-bar ladders on the front, and have yet to ever want for more traction. I've blown through one to three feet of snow after at least a dozen storms, and I have a 1000' of driveway, including a fairly steep hill.

I bought and have 2-link ladders for the rears at the same time as the fronts, but never even mounted them (turns out they're too heavy for me to lift). The front chains were only ~$100 - I kinda wish I didn't spend the extra $300 for the rear ones.

Incidentally, I agree that turfs go nowhere fast on snow. However, once you put chains on them, they are great - 100% of the cross chain gets used all the time, as there are no lugs to deform or swallow them.

JayC
 
   / Do I go with R4' or Turf tires? #50  
I agree with wolc123. R4 tires will carry more weight but that's about the only advantage. I had a set on my current tractor and swapped them for turfs - much better traction in snow.

R-4s are more puncture resistant too (more plies). That can be important if you do a mix of finish lawn/improved areas and field work.
 

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