Do I really need a tractor on 1.5 acres?

[mrblanche]

It's not a lawn mower, but I'm not sure that there is anything on the market to compare with the small old style Farmall tractor for doing large gardens. Especially in clay soil.
Luckily there are lots of used ones on the market and they are so simple they last forever.
If you go that route, get every attachment you can find.
rScotty

When I bought my Branson 2515R, I sold three Farmall Cubs, each of them for less than $1500. All of them with mower decks.

 

[bm3]

I have had tractors for 23 years . I sold most of my land and now down to a few acres. Last week I sold my MF 1635 , 35 horse with loader and my trailer. Just had a new well put in and they left the place a mess , tore the yard up and now I need a tractor . Ain't that a pisser

 

[Barnowl]

By now, everyone else has beat me with good reasons to buy one. I have 2.5 acres between two adjacent residential properties, one rented. about 1.2 acres of grass. Grass cutting timecut in half, but then I did an incredible amount of work with that tractor in 25 years, that I never could have done without one. It‘s a 30 yr old compact, 24 hp. Bought used, and if I sold today, I’d maybe take a $3,000 loss from what I paid. I think I’d have lost lots more in depreciation with a similar garden tractor with less functionality. Friends with lawn tractors have gone through several in that timeframe with more repairs. A compact tractor is just tougher, you just don’t see those issues with a compact tractor built to do much more than cut grass. In That 25 years, I’ve built a large garden building, 3 bay two story timber frame garage, moved over 20 dump truckloads of fill for the garage, all kinds of drainage work, portholes for two decks, moved 500# stairs for an entrance, and more than I can remember. The loader lifted all kinds of stuff to support my car restoration and welding hobbies, numerous piles of brush ( get forks for loader soon!). A massive leaf sucker with hydraulic dump handles my fall leaves in half a day, vs endless days with other tools. But then when I sit in deck with beer, I sadly must listen to neighbors leaf blowers for weeks. Let’s put it this way, my wife can’t see us being without one! Though it’s a bit big at times cutting grass with 60” deck in tight corners, I don’t think I’d go down to a subcompact. The lifting capacity both on loader and 3 point has been met or exceeded several times, and I wouldn’t settle for less.
Here’s another reason for you. My father in law got a 4 acre property 20 years ago. Stubbornly, he avoided spending $ for a ‘real’ tractor. He’s been laid up several times due to injuries trying to lift chunks of fallen trees. Lots of time cutting grass! His first lawn tractor, he literally wore the wheels off axles. His 2nd 20hp garden tractor just cut his grass quicker, and hasn’t done much more than pull a yard trailer. Together, we finally agreed to buy him a new Steiner, mainly due to hills and can also use at another tight property. He’s 92 and finally got a real tractor. Worst regret? Waiting 20 years.

 

[Big Blue Florida]

Had an older neighbor years back & when I said something about the tractor ruts in his yard(s)........his simple reply was, thems aint ruts datz character. He was always happy & I'd bet he still is.

 

[Lee plows]

Hi everyone, forum newbie here. Recently I moved to a new property, much bigger than my last. However after seeing our neighbors down the street playing with their bx, I'm questioning if we need one (a subcompact)


We're only on 1.5 acres, it's mostly flat. There are some big dips and ruts down the rear end of the property, but nothing extrodinary. We do have a large garden just above that, and a rocky driveway that I'm considering levelling.

We do use a cub cadet xt2 46in, and this is more than adequate for mowing. However I've found it hard to turn with (seriously who in their right mind decided permanent difflock is good for a lawn mower???) And during the rainy season often times the mower will get stuck,or slide around tearing up the grass. Or most likely just bog down due to the water. Meaning mowing is a chore that will take 2+ hours


I'm planning to start a 120M x 20M garden, however this all clay soil so it's necessary to use a large tiller, of which is extremely expensive.


Preferably something to mow with during the wet, so 4wd is very much preffered.

And planning to modify the garden bed/generally move dirt ect.

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

We have 2 acres, and have e1023 JD loader with turf tires, 60" mower and 54" blower, tractor is always being put to use. Go new if you can buying all the attachments adds up. Was told when we bought we'd never use a wheel barrow again true..

 

[LPowell1]

Hi everyone, forum newbie here. Recently I moved to a new property, much bigger than my last. However after seeing our neighbors down the street playing with their bx, I'm questioning if we need one (a subcompact)


We're only on 1.5 acres, it's mostly flat. There are some big dips and ruts down the rear end of the property, but nothing extrodinary. We do have a large garden just above that, and a rocky driveway that I'm considering levelling.

We do use a cub cadet xt2 46in, and this is more than adequate for mowing. However I've found it hard to turn with (seriously who in their right mind decided permanent difflock is good for a lawn mower???) And during the rainy season often times the mower will get stuck,or slide around tearing up the grass. Or most likely just bog down due to the water. Meaning mowing is a chore that will take 2+ hours


I'm planning to start a 120M x 20M garden, however this all clay soil so it's necessary to use a large tiller, of which is extremely expensive.


Preferably something to mow with during the wet, so 4wd is very much preffered.

And planning to modify the garden bed/generally move dirt ect.

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

The Massey is a great choice and will serve you well. I have had my GC1720 over 3 years, 328 hours, and no problems. Mid mount mower is easy to remove and attach after the first couple of times. Be sure to get a quick attach front loader!
I have a clay and a larger garden, and the 4 ft Woods tiller behind my Gc1720 does a great job. The 1705 would work well with the tiller.

 

[John Sininger]

Hi everyone, forum newbie here. Recently I moved to a new property, much bigger than my last. However after seeing our neighbors down the street playing with their bx, I'm questioning if we need one (a subcompact)


We're only on 1.5 acres, it's mostly flat. There are some big dips and ruts down the rear end of the property, but nothing extrodinary. We do have a large garden just above that, and a rocky driveway that I'm considering levelling.

We do use a cub cadet xt2 46in, and this is more than adequate for mowing. However I've found it hard to turn with (seriously who in their right mind decided permanent difflock is good for a lawn mower???) And during the rainy season often times the mower will get stuck,or slide around tearing up the grass. Or most likely just bog down due to the water. Meaning mowing is a chore that will take 2+ hours


I'm planning to start a 120M x 20M garden, however this all clay soil so it's necessary to use a large tiller, of which is extremely expensive.


Preferably something to mow with during the wet, so 4wd is very much preffered.

And planning to modify the garden bed/generally move dirt ect.

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

I live on a lot size very similar to yours. Also have a large garden growing tomatoes, garlic, corn, potatoes and beans in addition to tending 46 grape Vines. The balance of our property is mowed and the grass caught for mulch.
As to machinery, we have a Cub Cadet XT3 with a 42" deck and bagger (you could go with larger decks). The shaft drive is a definite benefit and as to rolling property with some damp areas good traction.
The garden and grapes are seen to by a Grillo G85. Check out Grillo and BCS 2 wheel tractors at Earth tools.com.
The amount of money you would spend on these two tractors would be far less than the MF or Kubota. Money you could be using on other things.
Best Wishes in your search!

 

[xj61975]

I have 2 acres and have a BX 2360 with 60" mid mount deck and FEL. It is great for mowing and with the FEL I have retired my wheelbarrow. I do have some slopes to mow and it deals with those confidently-both side slope and head on. Much more sure footed than my older Craftsman 6000 series hydro, which I keep around for edging. The diesel BX uses significantly less fuel than the Craftsman 26hp Kohler. I bought the BX off Craigslist about 5 years ago with less than 200 hours and never looked back.

 

[Rdr202]

Hi everyone, forum newbie here. Recently I moved to a new property, much bigger than my last. However after seeing our neighbors down the street playing with their bx, I'm questioning if we need one (a subcompact)


We're only on 1.5 acres, it's mostly flat. There are some big dips and ruts down the rear end of the property, but nothing extrodinary. We do have a large garden just above that, and a rocky driveway that I'm considering levelling.

We do use a cub cadet xt2 46in, and this is more than adequate for mowing. However I've found it hard to turn with (seriously who in their right mind decided permanent difflock is good for a lawn mower???) And during the rainy season often times the mower will get stuck,or slide around tearing up the grass. Or most likely just bog down due to the water. Meaning mowing is a chore that will take 2+ hours


I'm planning to start a 120M x 20M garden, however this all clay soil so it's necessary to use a large tiller, of which is extremely expensive.


Preferably something to mow with during the wet, so 4wd is very much preffered.

And planning to modify the garden bed/generally move dirt ect.

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

I had 3/4 acre and I had a Mahindra eMax 22 with loader and backhoe and I also had a Husqvarna Garden Tractor with a plow blade, a Craftsman lawn tractor with snowblower and soft cab and a Craftsman lawn tractor with mower deck and leave vacuum Cart.


sure over kill

 

[EABill]

Hi everyone, forum newbie here. Recently I moved to a new property, much bigger than my last. However after seeing our neighbors down the street playing with their bx, I'm questioning if we need one (a subcompact)


We're only on 1.5 acres, it's mostly flat. There are some big dips and ruts down the rear end of the property, but nothing extrodinary. We do have a large garden just above that, and a rocky driveway that I'm considering levelling.

We do use a cub cadet xt2 46in, and this is more than adequate for mowing. However I've found it hard to turn with (seriously who in their right mind decided permanent difflock is good for a lawn mower???) And during the rainy season often times the mower will get stuck,or slide around tearing up the grass. Or most likely just bog down due to the water. Meaning mowing is a chore that will take 2+ hours


I'm planning to start a 120M x 20M garden, however this all clay soil so it's necessary to use a large tiller, of which is extremely expensive.


Preferably something to mow with during the wet, so 4wd is very much preffered.

And planning to modify the garden bed/generally move dirt ect.

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

Depends on your wallet. I would say also every man needs a tractor. As you get older it will sure make it easier on your back.

 

[Sid Post]

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

Something to consider, a used older tractor like a MF 265 or IHC/McCormick W-4 is $3k~$6K if you wait and watch sales for something clean like a parade tractor that was painted ~8 years ago. A heavier tractor will serve much better working a gravel driveway and turning clay soil. Implements for this size tractor on the used market are pretty cheap at estate auctions and similar places.

For cutting a "golf course green" lawn, the smaller tired tractors like the [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] BX are nice but, in the rougher parts of your yard will be problematic for a smaller tired tractor like the BX. The good news is that a [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] BX can be had relatively cheaply if you wait and watch places like TractorHouse.com. I turned one down that had ~30 hours on a BX2380 with a [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] tiller and rear leveling blade in addition to its 60" deck.

Those little Massey "GC" tractors are a good option IF you have a good local Massey dealer. Whatever you do, avoid the Atwoods/TSC/Lowes/HomeDepot diesel tractors. Where are you going to get one of them serviced or spare parts when it breaks down?

 

[jjp8182]

Given how much information it s already here I'll just a few thoughts/observations from having transitioned from a riding mower to a tractor on about ~3 acres (with a garden of similar size to yours) several years ago:

- a larger/heavier tractor won't always tear up the yard more than a lighter/smaller tractor. In my case it actually did less because the higher weight is spread over a larger contact area, and the 72 inch mower results in fewer trips through the yard than with the smaller riding mowers. Btw once a certain deck size is reached a mid-mount mower can start to become more expensive per unit of width than a 3pt finish mower....

- if you read enough tractor forums you'll likely come to the conclusion that tractors shrink once you get them home and become familiar with them. Mine sure seemed to do so as well, but for my property, the size & cost of the tractor it still works for me (besides the "shortfalls" & limitations I've run into would require a MUCH larger machine ....or potentially something other than a tractor).

- when you have limited time having an appropriately sized machine to accelerate the work can also help prevent injuries and/or damage to the property & equipment - which in turn can be a tremendous time/money saver. Losing several days to recover personally or having to slow-down because a machine is too hot/overheating can also be outright frustrating in addition to any time/money costs....

- if you can identify the tasks and the time you have to get them done you can back into the size of implements and then size of tractor that makes the most sense for your situation. Sometimes though there might be hard limits like fitting through a narrow space, or loader loads that can't be made smaller that will drive the tractor size up or down.

Last thing to consider: while you'll be paying the initial cost up front you'll have the usage of the equipment for years/decades to come. One of the things that drove me to buying a tractor was the riding mowers were lasting me about a year for every $1,000 spent - and the riding mowers also didn't allow me to fully maintain my property (e.g. they couldn't mow the pastures, very limited/no help in cleaning up storm damage or limbs being naturally shed by the trees).

BTW I'm also averaging about 70 to 80hrs of use each year - at least during the drier months the colder/wetter ones can get wet enough that I can tear up the yard just walking through the yard so the tractor generally spends a lot of time parked during those months.

 

[Hermio]

Hi everyone, forum newbie here. Recently I moved to a new property, much bigger than my last. However after seeing our neighbors down the street playing with their bx, I'm questioning if we need one (a subcompact)


We're only on 1.5 acres, it's mostly flat. There are some big dips and ruts down the rear end of the property, but nothing extrodinary. We do have a large garden just above that, and a rocky driveway that I'm considering levelling.

We do use a cub cadet xt2 46in, and this is more than adequate for mowing. However I've found it hard to turn with (seriously who in their right mind decided permanent difflock is good for a lawn mower???) And during the rainy season often times the mower will get stuck,or slide around tearing up the grass. Or most likely just bog down due to the water. Meaning mowing is a chore that will take 2+ hours


I'm planning to start a 120M x 20M garden, however this all clay soil so it's necessary to use a large tiller, of which is extremely expensive.


Preferably something to mow with during the wet, so 4wd is very much preffered.

And planning to modify the garden bed/generally move dirt ect.

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

Do you "need" it? No. You can rent what you need for occasional tasks. But it might be fun to have one anyway.

 

[Hermio]

Hi everyone, forum newbie here. Recently I moved to a new property, much bigger than my last. However after seeing our neighbors down the street playing with their bx, I'm questioning if we need one (a subcompact)


We're only on 1.5 acres, it's mostly flat. There are some big dips and ruts down the rear end of the property, but nothing extrodinary. We do have a large garden just above that, and a rocky driveway that I'm considering levelling.

We do use a cub cadet xt2 46in, and this is more than adequate for mowing. However I've found it hard to turn with (seriously who in their right mind decided permanent difflock is good for a lawn mower???) And during the rainy season often times the mower will get stuck,or slide around tearing up the grass. Or most likely just bog down due to the water. Meaning mowing is a chore that will take 2+ hours


I'm planning to start a 120M x 20M garden, however this all clay soil so it's necessary to use a large tiller, of which is extremely expensive.


Preferably something to mow with during the wet, so 4wd is very much preffered.

And planning to modify the garden bed/generally move dirt ect.

I'm thinking of a sub compact but would this be the best choice? I have a Massey furgeson gc1705 with a midmount in mind, that's at a very nice price,and a loader is the cost of a new mower. Therefore I'll end up buying the loader for certain with the machine, and thankfully they are cross compatible.or should I just save my money and rent one when necessary? Hopefully with the tractor I'll sell the lawn mower, but I'm not certain yet

When it is dry, a zero turn mower will cut your mowing time down to about 1/3 of what a lawn tractor will do.

 

[Diwali]

A fascinating topic! And the vast majority said ‘yes’ you need a tractor (as I do!).
For my 5 acres I have a 50hp Case IH with FEL that I bought 7 years ago for less than $4000 and never once regretted it (although a backhoe would have been the icing on the cake). It won’t cut lawns but I have a Craftsman LT2000 17.5hp with 48” deck which has manicured the lawns perfectly for 16 years in all weather and doubles as a mini tractor for light jobs (towing, pulling etc).
This is a combination that might work for the OP - a good second hand tractor with FEL and a separate mower for lawns.

 

[pipefitter]

I bought a used BX23 almost 20 years ago. I only had two acres, but was planning a job that would have required renting one, so I bought it for around $11,000. MMM, loader and backhoe, about 300hours. I'm on 6 acres now, much of it wooded. It now has about 1100 hours, and gets a lot of use. Pretty sure I could get back most of what I paid for it. If you want it, get it, and maintain it. You won't be sorry.

 

[jiggseob]

Wow.... 14 PAGES of free advice on how to spend your money... worth every penny you're paying for it...

You do not mention if you have snow removal to do, if thats part of your gig you will need a loader, or at least a 3pt blade.

I have 1.5 acres. 2 @ 20x75m gardens - off site at the family farm. And because I'm in Canada I have more months of snow removal than grass. I use a [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] B6200 with rear mount mower, FEL, and Muratori 48" tiller with hydraulic side-shift. The tractor does only spring/fall tilling in the gardens, between the row tilling during the growing season is a Troy-Bilt Horse rear-tine.

If your garden has lotsa room, and you can get your 48" tractor between the rows, that will do. But the way my gardening goes, I do not have the space for 60" between rows - 48" tractor plus 6" each side for the garden plants to bush out. So [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] tills the whole gardens spring and fall, and the Troy-Bilt walk behind rear tine tiller 18" wide does between the rows during growing season. If thats the way you go, take your time and get a GOOD QUALITY rear tine tiller, they are a dream to use compared with a cheap front-tine.

When I bought my tractor - used - it did not have a belly mower. That option was $4k at the dealer. I bought a gently used 3pt 3blade finishing mower for $750. If your ground is uneven, and lots of turning and maneuvering around stuff, spend the extra and get belly-mount. If your mowing is like a big square football field, a 3pt rear mount mower is fine.

If your primary tractor task is mowing and likely to encounter wet condition while mowing, make sure to get "turf" tires, not "ag tires" or "combination / construction" tires.

Get the loader. In addition to moving dirt and landscaping, using the loader to pick up and move stuff around the property and on/off the pickup truck is indispensable.

My two cents... based on 30+ yrs of being on this acreage, brush-clearing, building a house, landscaping, and just keeping the jungle at-bay. I made a HUGE mistake in purchasing my [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] tractor. I should have bought it 10 years sooner, and not bought the series of Wal-mart grade lawn tractors that preceded the Kubota.

 

[Twist Trees]

Keep in mind you're querying a crowd, many of whom would justify owning a tractor while living in a condo. Admittedly, I count myself among their ranks.

 

[m5040]

I would recommend a Power Trac. I have [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] tractors and PT and used the Power trac's 10x compared to the standard 3pt hitch tractor. They articulate and will drive, repeatedly, across your lawn with no to minimal damage. They come as a loader with a quick attach and everything works out front where you can see it without turning around. Remember the standard tractor configuration was developed in the late 1800s and is obsolete for utility work (the only thing it does better is pull plows through the dirt). The Power trac has 4x4, power steering, rear engine (no counterweight needed) and as stated, a loader with quick attach and numerous attachments that are driven by hyd motors, no drive shafts to connect.

Power Trac

Compact Tractors, Slope Mowers, Articulated Tractors, Tractor Attachments, Trailer Packages

www.power-trac.com

 

[cfb]

That being said, the BX does not handle rough terrain or inclines well.

Hello Sea2Summit,
I'll comment to our original poster, but first, your comment here quoted caught my eye as I was considering the BX series, but now leaning to the B2601 or Deere 2025R. Would you expound a bit on the poor handling you experience. What tires do you have? Does it slip? or unstable on a slant? In my back 2 acres of woods, I have some definite hills to navigate with some wet season shallow creeks. My tractors are smaller so I was figuring the larger, 4WD would be the solution to haul out my small trailer of wood. Thank you.

In general, I wish, in hindsight, I bought bigger, but money dictated and I thought I went bigger. So that would be my advise now. I have a Ford 16HP diesel and an Ingersoll 448. They have turf tires and I keep chains on all year which is great as it helps in the woods and also prevents slipping up wet grassy slopes in the yard and also in rototilling and snow plowing. I don't need bigger for mowing or rototilling, but do for plowing and hauling. But each of these are over 30 years old and parts are hard to find for the Ford.
I would also recommend looking at the features of the tractor. eg. Treadle foot control vs two separate pedals. Or loader control on the fender or loader? I know we want to make a good decision due to the expense of these units but as many have said, you will probably be happy with whatever unit you get.