Do we need a warm garage....

[Oldpath05]

I just got my chimney pipe delivered, $703.00 for 7> 6"x36" and one roof top chimney flashing, Supervent from Lowe's, then bought from ebay a 6" stove pipe adapter for $31.00, that should get me started. Been doing the rough lay-out tonight with pencil, tape and level, trying to get an exact fit, dont want any do-ove's.

Thought about doing 26' of cement block for around $600.00, but my arm's and back said no compared to the price I payed at Lowe's. HD had a different brand for about the same price but pick-up in store only, not a fan of that. First I called a local stove shop for a quote, $252.00/4', are you nuts, and the online stores weren't much better, sometimes more. I guess on some things for some reason, the big box stores cant be beat, not even come close.

 

[Paddy]

Oldpath,

you will be glad you went with metal insulated pipe. It draws better because the gas heat is not sucked out by the masonry. Far less creosote for the same reason.

I've had both masonry and insulated pipe, masonry was cracking all over within a few years. The insulated pipe insulates so well, I could touch the pipe at all but the hottest burns.

 

[KennyG]

The chimney prices are hard to swallow, but it's once and done. It will last almost forever.

 

[JRobyn]

I spent huge $$$ for a stainless "Class A" flue for my basement wood furnace - required about 35 ft of 8" ID flue. Today, the guy that installed it came to clean it for the first time. It has been in for about 5 years with only about 2 real seasons of use. There was VERY LITTLE creosote buildup. We try to use reasonably well seasoned wood, and keep the flue temp (at the furnace) at at least 250-300 deg. But sometimes the fire cools down and at the end of the season, sometimes wood is less than ideal.

My B-I-L has a similar wood furnace with a similar height chimney/flue, but his is all masonry. He has fits getting it warmed enough to draw well, and the upper parts apparently NEVER warm enough to prevent creosote condensation. He has to brush it out about once a month to keep it from almost completely clogging. So he lives in fear of a chimney fire in his $1/2mil log home.

I predict that the satisfaction of your well-performing flue will far outlast the pain of today's expense.

 

[ovrszd]

Understand, no chimney is forever. Well,,,,,, maybe a very large, very thick rock chimney. Otherwise, plan to replace. Insulated pipe chimneys work well. For 10 years if well maintained and burn very seasoned firewood. Creosote is extremely corrosive.

 

[Oldpath05]

What's in the box...it says Supervent on the out side, on the pipe it reads, Made in Canada, by Selkirk Corp. The 6" ID pipe measures a little over 8" OD, be interesting to see how hot it gets on the outside of the pipe, but the stuff sure is shinny. One thing I'm curious about when it goes together by twisting it, wonder if it will untwist by itself or does it need a screw to hold it, hummm, youtube............

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The stainless insulated pipe I have (house & shop) is guaranteed for life, made in Canada... I heat my house with wood, so it does get used all winter.

My brother has the same pipe in his shop and it's a lot more than 10yrs old, it still looks like new.

He keeps his shop heated all winter too, as he has a kitchen and pooper in it.

I also have the same pipe in my shop, it's easily 30 yrs old, but I don't burn my shop stove every day... BUT, it was pipe dad used for 10 years or so, when heating his house. I got it used from him...

SR

 

[Oldpath05]

Oldpath,

you will be glad you went with metal insulated pipe. It draws better because the gas heat is not sucked out by the masonry. Far less creosote for the same reason.

I've had both masonry and insulated pipe, masonry was cracking all over within a few years. The insulated pipe insulates so well, I could touch the pipe at all but the hottest burns.

I've had trouble with the tile and cement blocks cracking in my first house chimney, replaced it 20 years ago by all the in-tell I could gather up from a few cement heads, then then 15 years ago I wanted to make darn sure never to mess with my house chimney again, call a chimney liner person, he lined my chimney with high grade SS pipe and guaranteed it for a life time. Today my chimney still looks brand new after heavy use and I can sleep better.

 

[Oldpath05]

The stainless insulated pipe I have (house & shop) is guaranteed for life, made in Canada... I heat my house with wood, so it does get used all winter.

My brother has the same pipe in his shop and it's a lot more than 10yrs old, it still looks like new.

He keeps his shop heated all winter too, as he has a kitchen and pooper in it.

I also have the same pipe in my shop, it's easily 30 yrs old, but I don't burn my shop stove every day... BUT, it was pipe dad used for 10 years or so, when heating his house. I got it used from him...

SR

Well that's encouraging, 30 years and still smoking, guess Canada makes good chimney pipe.

 

[Oldpath05]

I spent huge $$$ for a stainless "Class A" flue for my basement wood furnace - required about 35 ft of 8" ID flue. Today, the guy that installed it came to clean it for the first time. It has been in for about 5 years with only about 2 real seasons of use. There was VERY LITTLE creosote buildup. We try to use reasonably well seasoned wood, and keep the flue temp (at the furnace) at at least 250-300 deg. But sometimes the fire cools down and at the end of the season, sometimes wood is less than ideal.

My B-I-L has a similar wood furnace with a similar height chimney/flue, but his is all masonry. He has fits getting it warmed enough to draw well, and the upper parts apparently NEVER warm enough to prevent creosote condensation. He has to brush it out about once a month to keep it from almost completely clogging. So he lives in fear of a chimney fire in his $1/2mil log home.

I predict that the satisfaction of your well-performing flue will far outlast the pain of today's expense.

8" ID/35', I'd say your in the $$$$$ alright, my guess is around $3k. With 2 out of 5 years full use, should last a real long time, especially way down in Tenn.
What's a B-I-L, usually draft on a chimney can be a little better on round chimney pipe vs. square blocks, could do what I did, have it re-lined with SS stove pipe.

 

[KennyG]

What's in the box...it says Supervent on the out side, on the pipe it reads, Made in Canada, by Selkirk Corp. The 6" ID pipe measures a little over 8" OD, be interesting to see how hot it gets on the outside of the pipe, but the stuff sure is shinny. One thing I'm curious about when it goes together by twisting it, wonder if it will untwist by itself or does it need a screw to hold it, hummm, youtube............

Once you twist it together, it will stay, nothing else needed. You don't want to put anything into the pipe that will damage the sealed layers.

I have stainless double wall in the my pole barn and a 40 year old masonry chimney in the house. The house chimney was just inspected and it was in perfect condition. However, there is an element of luck in that whereas the stainless is kind of fool proof.

 

[Woodeye]

What's in the box...it says Supervent on the out side, on the pipe it reads, Made in Canada, by Selkirk Corp. The 6" ID pipe measures a little over 8" OD, be interesting to see how hot it gets on the outside of the pipe, but the stuff sure is shinny. One thing I'm curious about when it goes together by twisting it, wonder if it will untwist by itself or does it need a screw to hold it, hummm, youtube............

I have Selkirk, it uses a narrow clamp that catches both pieces of pipe and keeps it from unlocking. Five years old and works great.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Well that's encouraging, 30 years and still smoking, guess Canada makes good chimney pipe.

IF I had some that lasted only 10 years, it would be going back for FREE replacement!!

SR

 

[Deere Dude]

What's in the box...it says Supervent on the out side, on the pipe it reads, Made in Canada, by Selkirk Corp. The 6" ID pipe measures a little over 8" OD, be interesting to see how hot it gets on the outside of the pipe, but the stuff sure is shinny. One thing I'm curious about when it goes together by twisting it, wonder if it will untwist by itself or does it need a screw to hold it, hummm, youtube............

Don't forget the clearances from all combustibles. I put bands on some joints but I don't remember if I did all of them or not. If the specs called for them then I did.

I did put 3 short sheet metal screws on each screw joint just so it wouldn't unscrew, which I would doubt it could anyway. I think that is also in the directions.

When I get my fireplace rolling with this 6 inch double walled 25' Selkirk smokestack. the stack gets pretty hot. I can't hold onto it with my hand but for a second and that is why the clearance is required.

 

[dragoneggs]

I do need a warm garage/shop. Currently using an old kerosene heater and a propane tank with the dual burner attachment on top. What kills me is the cost of kerosene at Home Depot and the refilling of 20b propane tanks. Really want to keep my shop dryer in the winter time but it costs a fortune the way I am doing it now.

 

[mrmikey]

One thing I'm curious about when it goes together by twisting it, wonder if it will untwist by itself or does it need a screw to hold it, hummm, youtube............

As was said, locking band, it won't pass a WETT certification (least 'round here) without one on each joint Selkirk Metalbestos 6T-LB 6-Inch Stainless Steel Locking Band - Selkirk Chimney Pipe - Amazon.com . As for drilling and using screws, bad idea IMHO.......Mike

 

[CurlyDave]

I do need a warm garage/shop. Currently using an old kerosene heater and a propane tank with the dual burner attachment on top. What kills me is the cost of kerosene at Home Depot and the refilling of 20b propane tanks. Really want to keep my shop dryer in the winter time but it costs a fortune the way I am doing it now.

Both of the heaters you have release their combustion products directly into the shop. These combustion products have lots of water vapor in them, which is not going to make the shop dry.

To get away from this, you need to bite the bullet and install a heater which exhausts combustion products outside, an electric heater, or a heat pump.

I just added a hard-wired 240V electric heater to my garage, with a wall thermostat. The electricity is expensive, but I doubt that I will use it for more than a hundred hours per year so initial cost was a big consideration.

I could have used propane like you have, but I was afraid that the moisture would rust my tools.

 

[oosik]

I built a heated garage, attached to our house, when we lived in Alaska. We had very cheap natural gas and my house furnace was natural gas - with circulating hot water radiators. I plumbed a loop off the furnace and installed a ceiling mounted forced air hot water heater in the garage. Kept the garage at 60 degrees all winter. It was nice - kept all the ice/snow melted off all the vehicles and I could run the heat up if I was going to work out there.

 

[Deere Dude]

From the Selkirk website on screw usage.

http://www.selkirkcorp.com/~/media/ce8e2cf643a64fcfb00566e183e3607d.ashx

Double Wall Chimney Connector Installation:
LOCATE PROPER FASTENERS
Every Double Wall Chimney Connector installation will
require at least three types of screw. Each Telescoping
Section, DCC-TS5, Adjustable Length, DCC-18A, Elbow,
DCC-45, DCC-90, Tee, DCC-T and Stove Adaptor, DCCSA
is packaged with nine screws
as follows:
Three (3) 3/4 inch long sheet metal screws, for attaching
the connector to the chimney system.
Three (3) 3/8 inch long metal screws, for fastening any
connector part to another connector part.
Three (3) 1/2 inch long thread cutting screws, for
attaching to the stove collar.

The trick is to not use 1-1/2" screws.

 

[mrmikey]

The double wall pipe is different, it has an air space between the s/s inner pipe and the exterior. The shiny s/s flue pipe that you see outside is filled with some sort of insulation, I wouldn't drill it personally but it's up to whoever's doing it ..................M