Do we need a warm garage....

dadster4 · Nov 4, 2016

I have installed many brands of vent pipe...follow manufacturers directions and you will be OK.
I put in a "Ventis" brand class A chimney...SS inside and out...used 3 SS screws in each connection that only penetrate the outer pipe. Nice stuff, and should be...BIG $$$...and I don't want to ever install it again (12-12 pitch roof)

oosik · Nov 4, 2016

I have double wall SS pipe on my stove - installed in 1982 and still bright & shiny on the inside. I remember how upset I was at the time - SS pipe cost one dollar per inch. Times change. Mine is twist lock with no screws - never had a problem.

firemech · Nov 4, 2016

Oldpath05 said:
What's in the box...it says Supervent on the out side, on the pipe it reads, Made in Canada, by Selkirk Corp. The 6" ID pipe measures a little over 8" OD, be interesting to see how hot it gets on the outside of the pipe, but the stuff sure is shinny. One thing I'm curious about when it goes together by twisting it, wonder if it will untwist by itself or does it need a screw to hold it, hummm, youtube............

Actually three screws per section reccomended. Selkirk has been making this product for over 30 years and it did a good job.

ovrszd · Nov 4, 2016

Sawyer Rob said:
The stainless insulated pipe I have (house & shop) is guaranteed for life, made in Canada... I heat my house with wood, so it does get used all winter.

My brother has the same pipe in his shop and it's a lot more than 10yrs old, it still looks like new.

He keeps his shop heated all winter too, as he has a kitchen and pooper in it.

I also have the same pipe in my shop, it's easily 30 yrs old, but I don't burn my shop stove every day... BUT, it was pipe dad used for 10 years or so, when heating his house. I got it used from him...

SR

Wow, guaranteed for who's life?

Post the brand, supplier, cost. I'm all about insulated pipe that meets the standard your post set.

Oldpath05 · Nov 4, 2016

Well--- I went to youtube for chimney pipe info, but I had a song stuck in my head all day so after listening to Long Black Veil by J.C. and several others a dozen times, came back here and surprised by some good input here. Seems like we have 3 main views from the Twisters, Screwer's and Clamppers, the ABC plan, at this point I'm leaning towards plan A and see how that works. Think I want to see how the twisting together goes, if I sneeze and the pipe un-screws I'll go to plan B or C and look at that through my $$$$$ glasses.

Still have some time consuming prep-work to do, got a 17"x18" hole cut through the first floor, tomorrow I'll run a plum-line to make sure I'm still heading toward the roof in the right-ish location. Then I have to move the guard rail from the N. end of garage to the other end, requires making 2 more mounting plates to be permanently fastened/screwed to the roof, then pin the temp railing in, that way the roof some how is not so steep, with 14' ft. walls that sudden stop could be ouch.

20160529_085900 by Luke 2>11, on Flickr

ultrarunner · Nov 5, 2016

dragoneggs said:
I do need a warm garage/shop. Currently using an old kerosene heater and a propane tank with the dual burner attachment on top. What kills me is the cost of kerosene at Home Depot and the refilling of 20b propane tanks. Really want to keep my shop dryer in the winter time but it costs a fortune the way I am doing it now.

I've got the same issue in Olympia...

Shop came with a double barrel wood heater and metal flue... only used a few times in the last 10 years...

Last time I went to use it the barrels and flue crumbled I'm guessing from the corrosive creosote over time.

My retired neighbor has a small shop and heats with wood just about everyday year round... it's the only place I've been in Olympia that the air is really dry...

Oldpath05 · Nov 10, 2016

Chimney stove pipe install is still on-going, rail on roof is moved, started on pipe platform, planing on around 5 ft. off floor.

In the mean time wanted to make sure the the high pricey pipe was stainless steel, only way I know is with a magnet, magnet didn't stick to the inside, but stuck on the outside, that don't sound like stainless steel to me, so I email-ed Selkirk with my concern and disappointment and kinda surprised they replied. They sent me a document, stating> Is stainless steel magnetic, now after reading it, all's well IF the pipe will last and last.....

Garage related - Album on Imgur

ultrarunner · Nov 11, 2016

Yep... depends on the variety as to degree of magnetism...

At one time I had a small garage business of producing Stainless Steel Water Pump Shafts for antique cars and would go through the same discussions 35 years ago.

SandburRanch · Nov 11, 2016

We have 2 stainless sinks and the mounting flanges on both show magnetism traits while the main sink walls and bottoms do not.

Below is an interesting read on stainless and magnetism.

Why don't magnets work on some stainless steels? - Scientific American

lucky llama · Nov 11, 2016

Ive never had heat in the work shop. AC now that's a necessity.

ovrszd · Nov 11, 2016

lucky llama said:
Ive never had heat in the work shop. AC now that's a necessity.

It's 5:30 p.m. and we are at 47 degrees. That's exceptionally warm when compared to normal. We should be at low 50 daytime, 30ish at night. My shop furnace is running as we speak.

Oldpath05 · Nov 12, 2016

ovrszd said:
It's 5:30 p.m. and we are at 47 degrees. That's exceptionally warm when compared to normal. We should be at low 50 daytime, 30ish at night. My shop furnace is running as we speak.

The AC that I have is free, only about 3 wks/year that it's not quite adequate, heat on the other hand is diffidently needed 3 months out of the year, 3 other months is nice to have. The garage heat that I like is wood, dry, hot, free-ish and last but not least QUIET, vs. a running oil furnace. But one huge benefit from an oil furnace is just turn the dial, hard to do that on a wood stove.

PS, what's the difference between a shop vs. a garage............

ovrszd · Nov 12, 2016

Oldpath05 said:
PS, what's the difference between a shop vs. a garage............

I classify a garage as a building vehicles and stuff is stored in.

I classify a shop as a building equipped to work on said vehicles and stuff. For me personally that includes good electrical, concrete floor, climate control.

Citydude · Nov 12, 2016

Shorage if you will.

Oldpath05 · Dec 6, 2016

Finally, I'm ready for blast off this coming weekend. I've got about half hr. putting the chimney pipe together, but 20+hr. in prep work, starting with making the stove pipe platform and ensuring that it's in the RIGHT place, required the extensive use of plum-bobs, levels and tape measures. The end result after suffering a few brain cramp's and melt down's, DONE.

Not to mention putting a screen on the pipe flashing, another brain teaser....

dragoneggs · Dec 6, 2016

Okay I think I can answer the OP's question. YES... 'we' absolutely need a warm shop. It's 34degF and I decided not to finish a little honey do project because I started without proper dress and I'm too lazy to change and get back out there from the warm house. Maybe I can parlay this into another xmas present from my wifey? A nice big heater? I have a detached garage/shop that has sheet rocked walls and ceiling but no insulation. I need to insulate the rafters and if I get a xmas present... get a thermostat to heat to keep my tools somewhat comfortable too when I'm not there. The bonus would definitely be to have a remote!

cqaigy2 · Dec 6, 2016

Nice looking shop and nice build on the stove install!

What's the screen for on the thimble and the structure on you roof by the chimney? Oh, one more, is there a clean out on first 90 coming down from the roof?

I used stainless roof flashing, the thimble looking piece, and all the rest was stainless multi wall insulated as well. In the house is stainless multi wall, painted black on outside. The insulated stuff never seems to get warm, but the multi wall, on the inside of the house, will get quite warm, as in not want to leave my hand on it. The only time i've had problem with creosote build up is when burning wet wood.

jk96 · Dec 7, 2016

Just ran across this thread and was reminded of the sticker shock I got when ordering the flue for our fireplace. It uses 16" ID double wall insulated stainless and had 28 feet to run. I really hope the post about a 10 year life is way off. I would have to consider switching to gas if we had to replace after only 10 years.

ovrszd · Dec 7, 2016

dragoneggs said:
Okay I think I can answer the OP's question. YES... 'we' absolutely need a warm shop. It's 34degF and I decided not to finish a little honey do project because I started without proper dress and I'm too lazy to change and get back out there from the warm house. Maybe I can parlay this into another xmas present from my wifey? A nice big heater? I have a detached garage/shop that has sheet rocked walls and ceiling but no insulation. I need to insulate the rafters and if I get a xmas present... get a thermostat to heat to keep my tools somewhat comfortable too when I'm not there. The bonus would definitely be to have a remote!

I'd be a mental case if I didn't have a warm shop for several reasons. It's good for my Soul. It feeds my creativity. My equipment is MUCH better maintained. My Dog loves it, happy Dog, happy life.

Oldpath05 · Dec 7, 2016

cqaigy2 said:
Nice looking shop and nice build on the stove install!

What's the screen for on the thimble and the structure on you roof by the chimney? Oh, one more, is there a clean out on first 90 coming down from the roof?

I used stainless roof flashing, the thimble looking piece, and all the rest was stainless multi wall insulated as well. In the house is stainless multi wall, painted black on outside. The insulated stuff never seems to get warm, but the multi wall, on the inside of the house, will get quite warm, as in not want to leave my hand on it. The only time i've had problem with creosote build up is when burning wet wood.

Yes have a clean out cap under a TEE, and the the second thing I'm curious about, how warm will the double wall pipe get.
The Selkirk roof flashing has 1/4"x 1" hole slots in near the top, I emailed them, why are there holes in that? told them that's a great place for wasps and bugs to build a nest. Selkirk replied (2 thumbs up for companies response) they say not to seal those holes, has to be vented to let roof heat out, but if I wanted, put some screen around it. First attempt, cut a 4" wide strip of screen, thinking that should wrap around, wrong, next cut a 14" wide piece, wrap that around, draw the line, then cut 4" wide-ish, ended up banana shape, wrap it tight again with a 3rd hand holding it, 1/2 dozen pop rivets and hr later done, was another one of those frustrating moments.