Do we need a warm garage....
- Thread starter Oldpath05
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...........Yup that sounds like me too, hard to leave a warm house, you know you need heat when you can see your breath.
For a heat kick-starter I have last year's Christmas present, 70,000 BTU Pro-Temp heater, worked good the first two Saturdays then no heat, had to call for tech service, several times, finally after several mailed parts and 6 weeks later, fixed, ended up being circuit board inside. Didn't know it last year but probably would of been better off if the heater was bought local at HD or Tractor supply<<different color and name but same kind of heater, that way when it breaks, take it back to the store, 2 hr.-vs. 6 weeks..........And remote control heat is more expensive, but would be nice
16" ID, that's got to be in the thousands$$$$$. At 21' I'm in it for around $750.00, plus and or at least 6 hours of aggravating pre-work.
Raspy
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Oldpath,
Just curious why you didn't run your single wall up about two more sections of the double wall and put the transition up there. That would have saved on the cost of the double wall and put more heat into the room from the single wall. The transition at the double/single interface, with the nice shelf you made, could have been a straight transition to sweep the whole thing down to a TEE behind the stove. Just curious.
Nice looking installation.
Just curious why you didn't run your single wall up about two more sections of the double wall and put the transition up there. That would have saved on the cost of the double wall and put more heat into the room from the single wall. The transition at the double/single interface, with the nice shelf you made, could have been a straight transition to sweep the whole thing down to a TEE behind the stove. Just curious.
Nice looking installation.
By the time we bought the flue, offsets, anchor plates, fire stops, rain cap/screen, etc we were about $4,500 deep not counting the fireplace. The fireplace was a custom built unit and a little pricey but I never even thought about the cost of the flue at the time. Lesson learned.
KennyG
Super Member
I'm curious also about why single wall wasn't used in the room space. I have seen people run double wall so it wouldn't be a hazard if you touch it, but it does improve the heat efficiency to use single wall.
Also, relative to the mention of 16" flue pipe. How big is that fireplace? When you can run wood stoves with 80K Btu capacity or more with 6" flue pipe, a 16" pipe would handle an industrial size burner.
Also, relative to the mention of 16" flue pipe. How big is that fireplace? When you can run wood stoves with 80K Btu capacity or more with 6" flue pipe, a 16" pipe would handle an industrial size burner.
The firebox is huge. Inside dimensions of the firebox are 48" wide, 28" deep, and 42" tall. It's a see thru indoor/outdoor fireplace with doors on both sides. I'm going from memory on rated btu's but I believe it was around 110,000. I do know with the 16" flue there is never an issue getting the fire to draw. It's extremely easy to a get fire started. Still not sure of the reason for 16" though. As mentioned I was a little sticker shocked when I found out it was setup for 16".
Single wall inside the heated space may not be such a great idea. That's what my FIL has in his cabin and the flue cools the exhaust off so quickly that creosote condenses like crazy. He sometimes has to clean every couple of weeks, or if he doesn't, he gets chimney fires. Even so, he usually has at least a few chimney fires every season :-o
KennyG
Super Member
Not to be critical, but is he burning unseasoned wood? I have 9 feet of single wall to the ceiling of my pole barn and after three years, no evidence of creosote. In my house I have about 6 feet of single wall to get to the masonry chimney. I had it professionally cleaned this year for the first time in three years and the sweep said he found some ash and soot but no creosote.
RedNeckGeek
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If you have a large propane tank for heating the house or your water, call the folks that fill it and ask them if you can bring your picnic bottles by for a refill. Around here Home Depot gets about twenty bux for a refill, my propane supplier charges less than half that.
Snobdds
Super Member
This has not been my experience at all. In fact it shouldn't even be a factor in the grand scheme of things.
jack707
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I like a warm pole barn when working on my truck
Raspy
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This hasn't been my experience either. But I can see that if the fire is damped way down, it will build up more carbon in the stack. In a shop setting, he probably will be keeping the fire pretty hot.
Another thing: With a high ceiling, the heat will stratify up near the ceiling and there will be almost nothing at floor level. That shop needs at least one large paddle fan. It will make a huge difference! An excellent fan choice is the commercial, metal blade fans like the ones they use in the big box stores. They only cost about $50. and are 52" diameter. Nothing fancy and designed to run for many years. I put one in my shop (18' ceiling) and it really helped. I also have a large "Big ***" ceiling fan in my living room with 14' ceiling. It makes the room very comfortable and much easier to heat.
Put the shop fan in the middle of the room and it will develop a circulation with the stove. Up at the stove and down from the fan. Excellent. It will heat the room clear to the floor.
If you have a home with high ceilings these move a ton of air. Our living room has 26' ceilings. We have two of these that have basically ran year round for 3 years now. Even in low settings they do a good job of moving air even from that high up.
Home Decorators Collection Altura 68 in. Oil Rubbed Bronze Ceiling Fan-26668 - The Home Depot
Raspy
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Here's the one I installed in my shop: Very low price for what it is, with steel blades and will run for many years. Not fancy, but designed to be totally functional and last a long time. Low speed is enough to do the job in my 900 sq ft shop with 18' ceiling and I can't hear it running.
Westinghouse Industrial 56 In. Ceiling Fan - Mills Fleet Farm
Westinghouse Industrial 56 In. Ceiling Fan - Mills Fleet Farm
TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark
Veteran Member
Most people do. Most people don't know the difference.
If you are burning hard woods (notice I didn't say hardwoods) like oak, you need two years to call it properly seasoned. I used to see people say that on forums, and I scoffed at them as fanatics and woodburning elitists. My 6-12 month wood was burning just fine!
Then I had the chance to get a bunch of honestly two-year seasoned wood, and found out that I didn't know what I was talking about. The difference was amazing.
Now that I know better, I have found the same to be true even of pine. I don't get much pine, and I keep it for shoulder season, but still, I have now burned enough to know that 6 months is not enough. Pine needs at least a year in my climate (Virginia) and it's noticeably better at two years.
In terms of ease of lighting, long burns, BTUs, and less creosote buildup, 2 year wood is far superior.
The downside is that you need more room to store your wood. I only have an acre, but I manage it with 4 pallet bins that hold about 2.5 cords each, and I burn about 4-5 cords per year, so that allows me to rotate bins and keep 2 years worth on the property.
My wood stove is my only source of heat, so it matters to me!
Of course, if you live in a very dry climate, like, say, Flagstaff, your wood will dry faster.
RedNeckGeek
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I have one of the Altura fans in my great room. It has a mind of its own, and will come on, go off or change speeds and/or direction all by itself. The problem is inside the radio based remote control, and if you read the reviews on the HD site, is well known. I get around the problem, mostly, by using the remote only to change the speed or direction of the fan, then relying on the wall switch to turn it on or off. Once switched off at the wall, it won't do anything unexpected.
Have you tried reprogramming the fan to a different channel setting using the dips switches on the remote. Knock on wood we have 5 total in the house with no issues yet.
The thing about single wall vs an insulated flue is this: You should be running your stove to keep the exhaust temp ideal, not the stove temp. In other words, if you opt for a lengthy single wall in the living space, that means you will need to burn at a slightly higher temperature in order to keep that flue temp up and avoid deposits. An insulated flue allows you to burn at a slightly lower stove temperature since the exhaust will hold it's heat all the way up. There's no free lunch. Single wall = more wood to burn hotter but throws off more heat. Insulated flue = less wood required to keep flue temps up but you don't get the extra room heat from the flue.
I had over burn and under burn problems until I learned to monitor the flue temperature better. Now I use the look of the fire and the stove temperature as an indicator, but the flue temp drives my controls.
I had over burn and under burn problems until I learned to monitor the flue temperature better. Now I use the look of the fire and the stove temperature as an indicator, but the flue temp drives my controls.
