westcliffe01
Veteran Member
My task list today was to do a brake overhaul on my 2008 F250 SD. Last summer I took my Dodge Ram 1500 to get the brakes rebuilt and by the time it was done it was nearly $800. In addition, the guys "forgot" to rebuild the parking brake, which was the #1 issue I needed dealt with since I was going to a mountainous area and the truck is a stick. Apparently they seldom work on a parking brake and the return springs on both sides broke in less than 5000 miles and I had to pay 2 different places to fix it on top of the original bill.
Anyway, the Ford F250 (2008 model with ~75k miles on it, bought used with 65k miles on) was making some complaining noises this winter on the rare occasion I would drive it. So figuring that I would do the work myself to save the cost, AND know how the work had been done to avoid future issues like I had with the Dodge. I have also found the Ford dealerships massively backlogged on work on the diesels. Last time I had an exhaust thermocouple go out, it was at the dealer for over 3 months with no compensation.
Having done many brake jobs, the first thing I was worried about was getting those huge wheels off the hubs. Fear was well founded as no amount of soaking in kroil, nor pounding on the tire with a sledge hammer made any impression on the rust bond between wheel and hub. So I tried a "radical" option and cracked the wheel nuts loose and backed them off about a full turn. Driving like that, it only took 50 yards to break free the passenger side front. So I re-tightened the nuts on that side. Long story short, I drove some back roads slow for miles and miles and finally drove it round in a right circle in a big vacant parking lot, but absolutely could not make an impression on the drivers side front wheel.
So do any of you fellas with experience in American iron have any tips for a greenhorn like me how one might get this wheel free from its grip on the hub ? I did try heat from a blowtorch until I got smoke coming off the studs then later added more kroil. But no cigar...
Anyway, the Ford F250 (2008 model with ~75k miles on it, bought used with 65k miles on) was making some complaining noises this winter on the rare occasion I would drive it. So figuring that I would do the work myself to save the cost, AND know how the work had been done to avoid future issues like I had with the Dodge. I have also found the Ford dealerships massively backlogged on work on the diesels. Last time I had an exhaust thermocouple go out, it was at the dealer for over 3 months with no compensation.
Having done many brake jobs, the first thing I was worried about was getting those huge wheels off the hubs. Fear was well founded as no amount of soaking in kroil, nor pounding on the tire with a sledge hammer made any impression on the rust bond between wheel and hub. So I tried a "radical" option and cracked the wheel nuts loose and backed them off about a full turn. Driving like that, it only took 50 yards to break free the passenger side front. So I re-tightened the nuts on that side. Long story short, I drove some back roads slow for miles and miles and finally drove it round in a right circle in a big vacant parking lot, but absolutely could not make an impression on the drivers side front wheel.
So do any of you fellas with experience in American iron have any tips for a greenhorn like me how one might get this wheel free from its grip on the hub ? I did try heat from a blowtorch until I got smoke coming off the studs then later added more kroil. But no cigar...
Maybe some direct blows to the wheel via a heavy hammer on a crowbar or something like it that won't damage the bead. I usually use "anti seize" to "paint" the mating surface of the wheel/hub and always use it on the wheel studs and the surface where the pads contact the "sliding" area of the caliper. (that is when you get that sucker off)
