I was thinking about making a dolly for my five-foot tiller. I was thinking about using castor wheels on the dolly so I could roll the tiller out of the way when not being used. I would think it would be easier to line it up with the three-point hitch when you are putting it back on the tractor. Has anyone made their own dolly and I would like to see some pictures of any dollies that they made to move around their implements.
Dollies For Moving Implements
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Jagmandave
Veteran Member
here
Harbor Freight has very inexpensive furniture moving dollies, as long as you're rolling on a smooth surface.........a couple of those would easily hold the weight of a tiller.
1000lbs capable for $20......
Harbor Freight has very inexpensive furniture moving dollies, as long as you're rolling on a smooth surface.........a couple of those would easily hold the weight of a tiller.
1000lbs capable for $20......
roxynoodle
Veteran Member
I made dollies for all my implements except my rear finish mower, which has 4 wheels. I used 2x6s (I think 2x8s for the rotary cutter) and castor wheels. I can now hook up or unhook an implement in 2 minutes or less. They can also be rearranged easily in my corncrib. I can post a pic if you want to see one.
Tom_H
Veteran Member
Most of mine are on dollies. Most of them are simple rectangles, but the one for my rear blade is triangular and has a special groove for the blade and a support post for the neck.
This next link is to a post with 6 attached photos of my chipper dolly with its removable support post:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/92701-dolly-3-point-hitch-dr.html
I have a simple homemade gantry/chain hoist in the trusses to attach and detach the PHD.
This next link is to a post with 6 attached photos of my chipper dolly with its removable support post:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/92701-dolly-3-point-hitch-dr.html
I have a simple homemade gantry/chain hoist in the trusses to attach and detach the PHD.
RalphVa
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Our local TSC has a sale on furniture movers, $10.44 each. As mentioned, a couple of these underneath your rototiller would work pretty good. These are the kind with 4 castors and cushions on the other side, basically a square with pads to each side and castors underneath.
I made my own for my shredder/chipper out of some waste plywood and 2x4s around the edges to reinforce it, castors underneath. For a rototiller you'd need maybe some cross-piece 2x4s or 2x3s to reinforce it.
My carryall has 4 castors underneath it. The LX4 brush hog has a 1x6 with castors underneath the ends of it, with "L" brackets on the ends on the top to keep it from sliding off the edge. This is just put underneath the front running edges of the LX4. My back blade just sits on pieces of wood. It slides quite easily on them.
Haven't figured out a way to mount my soil ripper, other than to put it up on jack stands. Hmm. Wonder how a couple of those furniture movers might work on it? Might be able to affix a verticle couple of 2x4s to hold it up in the front, attached to the furniture movers.
I made my own for my shredder/chipper out of some waste plywood and 2x4s around the edges to reinforce it, castors underneath. For a rototiller you'd need maybe some cross-piece 2x4s or 2x3s to reinforce it.
My carryall has 4 castors underneath it. The LX4 brush hog has a 1x6 with castors underneath the ends of it, with "L" brackets on the ends on the top to keep it from sliding off the edge. This is just put underneath the front running edges of the LX4. My back blade just sits on pieces of wood. It slides quite easily on them.
Haven't figured out a way to mount my soil ripper, other than to put it up on jack stands. Hmm. Wonder how a couple of those furniture movers might work on it? Might be able to affix a verticle couple of 2x4s to hold it up in the front, attached to the furniture movers.
FarmGeek
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Several moons ago, I used one of these furniture movers as a mobile stand for my Honda generator. It worked quite well……for a while. When I went to move it, the most awful bumping and banging started as I rolled the rig across the floor. At first I thought something had stuck to the castor wheels. No, they’re clean. Then I thought it was a flat spot on the circumference of the castor. No, removal and testing showed them to still be round.
After careful research, aided by several frosty glasses of adult beverage while scratching my head, I discovered the problem. The little castors weren’t designed to hold weight for long periods of time. The inner axle of each castor had, with a hot garage and some time, managed to create an indention where it rested in the plastic wheel! There was no way to repair with for less cost than a new castor so I bought some with inner bearings and problem solved!
I think your idea is grand and will work great. Just be prepared to have a bumpy ride one day or pick up some better castors.
Roll On!
After careful research, aided by several frosty glasses of adult beverage while scratching my head, I discovered the problem. The little castors weren’t designed to hold weight for long periods of time. The inner axle of each castor had, with a hot garage and some time, managed to create an indention where it rested in the plastic wheel! There was no way to repair with for less cost than a new castor so I bought some with inner bearings and problem solved!
I think your idea is grand and will work great. Just be prepared to have a bumpy ride one day or pick up some better castors.
Roll On!
rox
Veteran Member
Stoner,
i made some for my husbad. I used Pallets, however i added a 5th caster wheel in the center as our rototiller is heavy, having that extra wheel in the center really helps it from caving in towards the center. the dollies are very handy he appreciates them.
i made some for my husbad. I used Pallets, however i added a 5th caster wheel in the center as our rototiller is heavy, having that extra wheel in the center really helps it from caving in towards the center. the dollies are very handy he appreciates them.
RalphVa
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Rox,
That 5th castor wheel in the middle is a great idea. The plywood used for my MacKissic sagged some in the middle. I just put more screws in around the edges, into the 2x4s. A 5th castor wheel would have fixed it, too, and I may yet do it.
Had to change out the castors on the bottom of my carryall, which uses a pallet as its bottom. Kept forgetting to raise it and drug the castors. Put some heavier ones on it that'll take a little more of this neglect.
I've an extra pallet hanging around. Couldn't get Lowes to come get it.
Ralph
That 5th castor wheel in the middle is a great idea. The plywood used for my MacKissic sagged some in the middle. I just put more screws in around the edges, into the 2x4s. A 5th castor wheel would have fixed it, too, and I may yet do it.
Had to change out the castors on the bottom of my carryall, which uses a pallet as its bottom. Kept forgetting to raise it and drug the castors. Put some heavier ones on it that'll take a little more of this neglect.
I've an extra pallet hanging around. Couldn't get Lowes to come get it.
Ralph
flusher
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Stoner said:
Here's the dolly I built for my 4-ft wide Yanmar RS-1200 rototiller. Works fine if you have a garage/shop with a concrete floor. Wheel the rototiller into place and hook it up to the 3pt in about 2 minutes time.
Used metal casters from Home Depot ($4.50ea) and some 1-1/4" pipe/fittings that I had lying around.
Attachments
Barnboy
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elalexander
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Barnboy, good looking job. I also like flushers engine hoist lift idea. Anyone "stacking" implements in the off season? Be interested in how we are saving space.
Tom_H
Veteran Member
elalexander said:
I do. I lift my rear blade off its dolly with the electric hoist up in the trusses. The rb dolly is set aside and the rough cutter is rolled beneath on its dolly. The hoist then sets the rb onto the back of the rough cutter. When the rc is rolled against the wall, the carry all, which has its own mini casters bolted to the legs, is rolled beneath the blades of the rc, with only the vertical posts upright at the end. Then the rb dolly and mmm dolly are stacked atop the rb.
BigYoung
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tagged
skipperbrown
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I used 2 harbor freight car dollies which are on sale often. They each have 4 steel castors. They are cupped to fit a tire, but I bolted 5/4 planks across them and connected 2 of the dollies with an appropriate length 2x4 on the end of the dollies. Then I laid a 24" or so 4x4 on top of each dolly to match where the skids on the rototiller hit the dolly. Looking back, you could forgo the planks and just use a 4x4. The 4x4 adds enough height so the tiller blades rotate freely when the pto shaft turns. This makes hooking up the tractor pto a breeze, well, maybe not a breeze. PTO shafts are always a pain, but when the equipment end spins easily, it makes hook up easier. Finally, I don't like using furniture dollies for something this heavy because the HF ones I have with rubberish wheels will develop flat spots quickly and don't turn when there is a lot of weight on them which makes them hard to move. Having implements that move makes hooking up far, far easier. The only downside is you need a concrete floor.
Xfaxman
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Since this old thread got revived for new eyes, here is one I made from 2x6s:
And a three wheeler for the tree puller:
And a three wheeler for the tree puller:
BigYoung
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Xfaxman
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You are welcome.
Found this article while doing research on fork dollies for another thread. It may be the one that you saw: The Best Home-Built Tractor Add-Ons of 2 18, Ranked - TractorByNet
Found this article while doing research on fork dollies for another thread. It may be the one that you saw: The Best Home-Built Tractor Add-Ons of 2 18, Ranked - TractorByNet
BigYoung
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Thank you XMan, this is the article - it has several upgrades I plan to make. Saw your wood storage dolly and want one of those also. Its always an educational tutorial when I read your posts. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Young in South Louisiana
