Double Pilot Operated Check Valve for 2 Cylinders???

[kennyd]

Need 2 small cylinders...anyone? any ideas?

1.5" x 8" stroke would probably be a good start.

Do you have a Surplus center catalog?

There are several in there like:

ONE
TWO

Those are the cheapest welded cylinders they have, but there are some tie rod cylinders also...but you said you needed "slimmer" ones...

 

[SkunkWerX]

Do you have a Surplus center catalog?

There are several in there like:

ONE
TWO

Those are the cheapest welded cylinders they have, but there are some tie rod cylinders also...but you said you needed "slimmer" ones...

Kenny, the first link is the tractor-FEL blade, which is very COOL!
I've been looking at the used Deere 54" blades that come up for sale once in a while...to make a FEL-arm mounted rig like yours.

I did look through Surplus Center numerous times.
The shame is, I can get a 2" cylinder cheaper than a 1.5", dang.

2 cylinders, plus the Pilot Valve plus hoses and fittings is going to be a bit costly just to raise and lower the skids on a tiller. If it was a mower being used once per week, it would be easily justified, but for an item that may not see that much use, I may have to settle for socket and box-end wrenches

I will keep pondering this. Time is on my side.

 

[MJPetersen]

Have you looked at the grey market tillers like Yanmar? They often have depth control wheels with them. Mine does. Today I stood there and looked at it and I could see how a single cylinder would be easily mounted and would work for mine. The connection for the depth wheels is directly behind the gear box--in fact it is bolted to it. the depth is controlled with an exposed turn buckle screw style affair. Do you not have the means behind the box on yours? I need to look at a KK.

OK. They have bolts on the sides of the gear box that you could get longer ones and make a bracket which would attach to the sides of the gear box and extend toward the back with arms. You could then attach to these arms the parts to raise and lower the wheels.

I was thinking that these arms could contain the rotating shaft that would control the wheels. The cylinder would attach to the short arm coming off the shaft and the other end could attach to the back side of the 3 pt tower. I do not know if I am explaining this well.

Maybe tomorrow I will take a photo of my tiller.

Mike

 

[6sunset6]

One thing to remember when going to smaller cylinders . Flow is constant so they are going to run really fast. Unless you slow down the engine but then the PTO revs go down. I think you will need a restrictor even in a
1/4 " line maybe a flow control needle valve so you can get it right. YOu will only need one. I think.

 

[kennyd]

Kenny, the first link is the tractor-FEL blade, which is very COOL!
I've been looking at the used Deere 54" blades that come up for sale once in a while...to make a FEL-arm mounted rig like yours.

Sorry about the link, I had an extra tab open help someone else I don't have the FEL plow anymore, I now have a frame mounted plow from the old x55 series tractors that I made to fit my 4110, Still need to get hoses for it-I guess I need to stop procrastinating! Maybe next week...

I did look through Surplus Center numerous times.
The shame is, I can get a 2" cylinder cheaper than a 1.5", dang

I guess it's a popularity thing?

 

[SkunkWerX]

Kenny,
I didn't know you you got rid of your FEL-blade?
Thansk for the other info!

MJPeterson, thanks, I think I understand 80% of your description.
The rear of the KK has the steel "door" that opens to 90 degrees, straight out the back, so, putting anything directly behind the tiller is going to keep that "door" from being able to hinge open.

I like the idea of possibly mounting something using gearbox bolt holes..but mounting the rotating shaft is gonna be rough, unless I put it up high, away from the supports that run from A-frame back to rear of tiller.

Still thinking.

 

[tlbuser]

I don't have the FEL plow anymore, I now have a frame mounted plow from the old x55 series tractors that I made to fit my 4110, Still need to get hoses for it-I guess I need to stop procrastinating! Maybe next week...

How much fabbing did you have to do ?

 

[MJPetersen]

The rear of the KK has the steel "door" that opens to 90 degrees, straight out the back, so, putting anything directly behind the tiller is going to keep that "door" from being able to hinge open.

What I was thinking is that the whole thing would be above the rear flap and not interfere with the operation of it at all. I did not get a photo today, maybe tomorrow.

Mike

 

[kennyd]

How much fabbing did you have to do ?

Not to bad, I had to make the front part fit into the existing mounts for the factory QH, then shorten the rear of the frame. I also made the front cylinder mount part of the subframe like the new version instead of having to bolt it onto the front weight bracket.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Are you looking to have both cylinders operate in rhythm? I have some used 1 1/2" bore X 8" stroke cylinders in my shop. You interested?