Drawbar towing.

Teufelwerk · Dec 17, 2023

Sold my BX 25 "starter" tractor and upgraded to new L6060 with cat 1 3 pt drawbar hitch supplied by dealer. Tnought I was getting a cat 2 drawbar atrachment. The cat 1 has eleven 3/4 inch holes. I want to attach both 2 inch and 2 5/16 balls for moving wood chipper, splitter, empty flatbed trailer ( approx 3000 lbs with no load ). Tractor rear wheels are loaded. 2 inch ball is available with 3/4 shaft but smallest 2 5/16 ball comes in 1 inch shaft and up. So, can I drill one of the holes up to 1 inch or will I weaken the drawbar significantly? Are there other options, perhaps a way to attach a 2 inch hitch receiver to this drawbar? I have front pallet forks that I could possibly weld a receiver hitch to. Appreciate all thoughts, comments. Thank you.

Rustyiron · Dec 17, 2023

I think that about $100 you can get a 3 point attachment that's got a 2" receiver and is perfect for trailers. Some of the bigger ones have a ball on the top for moving a g/n.

LouNY · Dec 17, 2023

get ready

oldnslo · Dec 17, 2023

What is the hole diameter in the actual draw bar on your tractor?

sea2summit · Dec 17, 2023

Drawbar’s main drawback (lol) is that they have very poor load ratings for downward force. The can pull a crap ton but should be used for anything with meaningful tongue weight. Many 3PT options are available, you just have to be careful you always have tongue weight as it gets embarrassing real quick if they have any tongue lift!

bcp · Dec 17, 2023

LouNY said:
get ready

They were intended for tongue-pulled implements using a clevis hitch and pin. For use with a ball, they should be stabilized. Some use clamps that fit the draft links and others have an upright for the top link.

Or just follow "best practice" and buy a "trailer mover."

Bruce

nyone · Dec 18, 2023

I prefer to move trailers useing the loader. I have a $7 2in reciever welded to the cross arm of my SSQA. Then I just have to plug in what ever ball size I need.

I moved a 6klb camper around just this weekend.

Rustyiron · Dec 18, 2023

I like jockeying trailers around with the skid steer with the forks on and a little adapter that slips on a fork, but the visibility is perfect vs the zero visibility of a tractor. Unless the receiver tube (with a tractor) is on the top of the bucket and fully to the side you can't see chit. Then it's usually too high to hitch to a parked trailer left at normal towing height.

Vigo327 · Dec 18, 2023

I too would recommend that you buy a dedicated attachment for this, especially since they are so cheap. Another advantage is if you have any gooseneck trailers to move, not only can you put a drawbar with a 2-5/16 ball in the bottom for bumper pulls, you could use the 2-5/16 ball they have on top for goosenecks.

Something like this, there are many manufacturers. This one can take bale spears as well, which can also make it able to move lighter pallets around with the bottom two, if you have a hydraulic top link to tilt it with.

LouNY · Dec 18, 2023

Teufelwerk said:
Sold my BX 25 "starter" tractor and upgraded to new L6060 with cat 1 3 pt drawbar hitch supplied by dealer. Tnought I was getting a cat 2 drawbar atrachment. The cat 1 has eleven 3/4 inch holes. I want to attach both 2 inch and 2 5/16 balls for moving wood chipper, splitter, empty flatbed trailer ( approx 3000 lbs with no load ). Tractor rear wheels are loaded. 2 inch ball is available with 3/4 shaft but smallest 2 5/16 ball comes in 1 inch shaft and up. So, can I drill one of the holes up to 1 inch or will I weaken the drawbar significantly? Are there other options, perhaps a way to attach a 2 inch hitch receiver to this drawbar? I have front pallet forks that I could possibly weld a receiver hitch to. Appreciate all thoughts, comments. Thank you.

I am guessing that you are referring to this type of "drawbar"

The lower bar in this picture is the actual drawbar.

When using a pull point attached to the 3 point just be aware that there is NO hold down force in the 3 point assembly.
While 3 point hitches are handy and versatile they do require one step often over looked, a chain or other travel limiting device needs to be used to prevent trailer loading from lifting the drawbars and raming things into undesired locations such as fender and fuel tanks.

In this picture at the bottom of the picture you can see the clevis attached to the tractors drawbar and to hooks in the hitch to limit upward movement.

another view showing the chains getting tight at the top of the 3 point lift

scott_vt · Dec 18, 2023

Good Afternoon Lou,
I think you may have saved a few people an un pleasant experience !!

LouNY · Dec 18, 2023

scott_vt said:
Good Afternoon Lou,
I think you may have saved a few people an un pleasant experience !!

Hope so.

BlueKnife · Dec 18, 2023

Teufelwerk said:
Are there other options, perhaps a way to attach a 2 inch hitch receiver to this drawbar? I have front pallet forks that I could possibly weld a receiver hitch to. Appreciate all thoughts, comments. Thank you.

I'm sure that you can get an actual drawbar for that tractor, rather than the 3 point version. I'd be surprised if it doesn't already have one. Have you looked underneath to check? Sometimes they'll be slid in and pinned out of the way. That'd be the safest option and would be fine for the loads you describe. You should definitely weld a receiver to your pallet forks as well too though. That's real handy.

jyoutz · Dec 18, 2023

BlueKnife said:
I'm sure that you can get an actual drawbar for that tractor, rather than the 3 point version. I'd be surprised if it doesn't already have one. Have you looked underneath to check? Sometimes they'll be slid in and pinned out of the way. That'd be the safest option and would be fine for the loads you describe. You should definitely weld a receiver to your pallet forks as well too though. That's real handy.

Where would you weld a receiver to pallet forks that wouldn’t compromise their use to slide the forks into pallets and under other items?

BlueKnife · Dec 18, 2023

jyoutz said:
Where would you weld a receiver to pallet forks that wouldn’t compromise their use to slide the forks into pallets and under other items?

Weld it on so the front of the receiver is flush with the frame. The forks can just slide past it. Where exactly it goes is going to depend on the design of the frame and how much modification you want to do. A lot of them have a support in the center. Often, that support can be cut and the receiver welded in the center. In some cases, the receiver can just be welded off center. I built my fork frame from scratch and integrated the receiver into the frame, but I've added receivers to half a dozen or so factory frames, using a few different methods.

The forks in this link will give you an idea what I'm talking about. Titan Attachments Skid Steer 42 in Pallet Fork Frame 2 in Trailer Hitch Receiver for Bobcat Case Kubota 3 Point Tractor | Tractor Parts Shop

jyoutz · Dec 18, 2023

BlueKnife said:
Weld it on so the front of the receiver is flush with the frame. The forks can just slide past it. Where exactly it goes is going to depend on the design of the frame and how much modification you want to do. A lot of them have a support in the center. Often, that support can be cut and the receiver welded in the center. In some cases, the receiver can just be welded off center. I built my fork frame from scratch and integrated the receiver into the frame, but I've added receivers to half a dozen or so factory frames, using a few different methods.

The forks in this link will give you an idea what I'm talking about. Titan Attachments Skid Steer 42 in Pallet Fork Frame 2 in Trailer Hitch Receiver for Bobcat Case Kubota 3 Point Tractor | Tractor Parts Shop

I see what you’re doing. But it seems like you would have to remove the forks to use the receiver? Mine slide along a rail to adjust but aren’t easily removable.

BlueKnife · Dec 18, 2023

jyoutz said:
I see what you’re doing. But it seems like you would have to remove the forks to use the receiver? Mine slide along a rail to adjust but aren’t easily removable.

Yes, in most cases you would need to remove the forks. Some judicious grinding and/or grease on the rails that your forks slide on will make them less difficult to remove. Doing it the way I do would not work for someone with mobility and/or fitness issues. I use the receiver on mine regularly. If you don't have the strength or mobility to slide the forks off, you may be better off with a dedicated SSQA hitch plate.

jyoutz · Dec 18, 2023

BlueKnife said:
Yes, in most cases you would need to remove the forks. Some judicious grinding and/or grease on the rails that your forks slide on will make them less difficult to remove. Doing it the way I do would not work for someone with mobility and/or fitness issues. I use the receiver on mine regularly. If you don't have the strength or mobility to slide the forks off, you may be better off with a dedicated SSQA hitch plate.

I’m going to have to take a closer look. I was under the impression that mine aren’t removable, just adjustable on a sliding bar. This is the unit I have: