You mean rigid copper with soldered joints? What happens to them in a fire?He looked at it and said I'd have to do it over again since I couldn't use plastic pipe. When I asked why he said "If you have a fire the pipe could melt" I said if the fire melts the pipe isn't that a good thing, it just may put the fire out. He didn't like my answer, so I replumbed it with copper.
Guys, Keep in mind I am doing mine with just city water pressure connected to a 3/4 pvc pipe. I acualy did the first hole 5 to 7 feet with just the jet nozzle on the water hose but could not keep it going straight so I pulled it out and started over with the PVC pipe moving it over a foot. That being said I have already done 20 feet. It works very well with just the jet nozzle , pvc pipe and city water pressue.
I'm really liking this jetting idea. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a trash pump...I've jetted wells for years, the only way to go!
I use a 2" trash pump hooked to large water tank.
I was only talking about if there was a fire...where plastic water pipes could melt...I'm just guessing most of the copper joints would burst if your house was burning, although that seems like a good thing to me.If you've never tried to unsweat a copper pipe filled with water, let me save you the trouble...it doesn't work.
You could build yourself a well drilling outfit that can go down 300 feet or so. My Grandfather and Father drilled wells with one many years ago. Took about four days or so.![]()
What kind of pump can you use with a well that's drilled to this kind of depth? I would assume that something of this depth needs a small type of mechanical lifting arrangement rather than an electrical pump? For that matter, a well driven with a point beyond a certain point, simply because of the diameter of the pipe used, also cannot accommodate a submersible pump and jet pumps don't work either?
Our place once had a hand-dug well to 90 feet with 10 feet of standing water in it. Tragically, a baby fell into it some years back and it was then covered and is now used as a cesspool. But we still have water supply problems here so I'm also researching what route to go.
[What kind of pump can you use with a well that's drilled to this kind of depth?/QUOTE]
These wells were usually cased with 6 inch pipe. At that time most used a sucker rod PD pump but when the hydro came they would add a pumpjack and electric motor instead of the windmill or gasoline engine. Lots worked on hand power too.
Then they installed the downhole centrifugals or jet pumps.:thumbsup:
Submersible well pump.
Amazon.com: submersible well US Home Improvement
The old well - I wouldn't be too keen on on putting sewage deep in the aquifer. Think about reclaiming it for irrigation. A submersible pump still allows the use of a solid cap.
[What kind of pump can you use with a well that's drilled to this kind of depth?/QUOTE]
These wells were usually cased with 6 inch pipe. At that time most used a sucker rod PD pump but when the hydro came they would add a pumpjack and electric motor instead of the windmill or gasoline engine. Lots worked on hand power too.
Then they installed the downhole centrifugals or jet pumps.:thumbsup:
So here's what I'm really interested in learning, and hadn't clearly seen yet in all of my "googling;" is it possible to go down, say, 100 feet with one of the simpler methods described here on this thread AND end up with a casing large enough for a submersible pump? For most of what I've seen for a do-it-yourselfer like me, I have assumed (and we all can now see how well that's worked out for me, eh?) is that I'd end up with a smaller diameter casing/pipe that precluded an electricity driven submersible pump. Actually, I say do-it-yourself pretty casually; I'll most likely have a few of my regular laborers (well-paid at the equivalent of $2.50/day) doing all of the heavy, labor-intensive work, but still avoid a costly drill rig I hope!
Egon, your method seems to me to be the only one that can give a casing large enough for a submersible pump at the depth needed for situations like mine, then. All I gotta do is study that sketch you posted a leeetle bit harder... any chances you could enhance it some? Thanks.
I should have been clearer about my question, since I was assuming Egon was talking about sinking a well with a small diameter pipe, which he kindly cleared up for me with his post. Your link, Brad, shows a submersible pump with a 4" diameter, easily fitting into typical "big-rig" drilled well with a typical 6" casing.
Fortunately, the old well doesn't take on any sewage, but acts more like a dry well for draining the excess rain runoff from the yard.
So here's what I'm really interested in learning, and hadn't clearly seen yet in all of my "googling;" is it possible to go down, say, 100 feet with one of the simpler methods described here on this thread AND end up with a casing large enough for a submersible pump? For most of what I've seen for a do-it-yourselfer like me, I have assumed (and we all can now see how well that's worked out for me, eh?) is that I'd end up with a smaller diameter casing/pipe that precluded an electricity driven submersible pump. Actually, I say do-it-yourself pretty casually; I'll most likely have a few of my regular laborers (well-paid at the equivalent of $2.50/day) doing all of the heavy, labor-intensive work, but still avoid a costly drill rig I hope!
Egon, your method seems to me to be the only one that can give a casing large enough for a submersible pump at the depth needed for situations like mine, then. All I gotta do is study that sketch you posted a leeetle bit harder... any chances you could enhance it some? Thanks.
A packer assembly will use the outside pipe and a drop pipe in the center to a packing assembly. Works like a two pipe jet system.
Illegal in some if not most states.
A packer assembly will use the outside pipe and a drop pipe in the center to a packing assembly. Works like a two pipe jet system.
Illegal in some if not most states.