Ed's 77 Terex 72-41 Wheel Loader

[GLyford]

So in theory, if you felt like taking a chance to get the unit "functional" rather than "correct", you could remove all the non-hydraulic parts and replace them with an orbit valve and short column from a junkyard combine (or whatever) and call it good. If you want to spec a new/surplus unit, you could get a load reactive one, otherwise, you would be at luck-of-the-auction, but at least up and running. (I don't know if combines are set up load reactive or not).

Might be worth figuring out the volume of your steering cylinders and count how many times you would have to spin a given displacement of steering valve to move them from end to end and compare to the current setup. I don't know how many of the $100 valves on ebay at the moment would have a volume that would work for you.

And of course, hose end to port adapters and elbows and such as needed.

I guess system pressure vs. valve allowable, and open vs. closed center would need to be looked at too...

 

[mountainguyed67]

So a combine doesn’t use a steering box? The column must connect directly to a valve.

What is load reactive? Is that what Terex calls road feel?

Sounds like a lot of variables. I’m aware that what initially looks like a lower cost alternative, could nickel and dime me to death, and never work right. Plus, I don’t know what I am doing with hydraulic steering.

My heavy equipment buddy gave me a couple places to call for a valve, and say he referred me. I’ll try tomorrow.

 

[mountainguyed67]

This is what I was doing today. When we put it together last week we did not have the gaskets yet, so we just used silicone. It is outdoors and rain was coming, so we needed to button it up. I also added the gear oil today.

Started putting the oil back into the transmission, and noticed it was coming out the bottom faster than before. Doh! I do not know what went wrong, I have done a lot of seals before without that problem.

Also adjusted the front brakes. Followed the manual, it said to adjust until they drag, then build air pressure and step on the brakes a few times. Then adjust again, and back off three clicks after they drag. All seems good.

I did not have time to do anything else. Next time I will put the wheels on, remove the transmission yoke, and try to figure out why it is leaking.

 

[LouNY]

So a combine doesn’t use a steering box? The column must connect directly to a valve.

What is load reactive? Is that what Terex calls road feel?

Sounds like a lot of variables. I’m aware that what initially looks like a lower cost alternative, could nickel and dime me to death, and never work right. Plus, I don’t know what in doing with hydraulic steering.

My heavy equipment buddy gave me a couple places to call for a valve, and say he referred me. I’ll try tomorrow.

Most tractors and combines use an orbital steering valve, an orbital valve outputs a certain volume of hydraulic fluid per revolution.
Load Reaction - Steering cylinder ports are tied together in neutral, allowing the axle forces to return the steering wheel to it's original position when the wheel is released (similar to steering in an automobile).
Non load reaction - Steering cylinder ports are blocked in neutral, locking the axle position when the operator releases the steering wheel.

One option which is not used very often is a simple hydraulic valve setup as a joystick for steering.

 

[GLyford]

So yes, a load reactive valve reacts similarly to your "road feel" gearbox.

Columns on an orbit valve can be as long or as short as you need to where you want to mount the valve, as short as an inch so your knuckles just clear the dash, or as long as a yard so the valve mounts under the floorboards.

 

[mountainguyed67]

The transfer output is like this, it does not have a big nut on it. It is leaking past the seal though, not the splines. My mechanic friend thinks the spring may have popped off the back of the seal, I did not think of that possibility. He wants to take off the retainer the seal is installed into, and look at it from the back side.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I gathered some parts over the winter, I was up Monday gathering more information.

This is a block heater

I still can not figure out where the block heater goes, I think what I got is for a later engine. The people selling these things are no help. Well almost no help, their product information says it replaces the water jacket plate on the side of the engine. They have two options, with and without water cooled compressor. Mine is water cooled. So I think if I follow the hose back from the compressor, it will go to where this thing installs at. It is just a pipe fitting though. I can not find anything with two bolts like this.

So I guess the question is, what/where is the water jacket plate?

 

[mountainguyed67]

I do not have engine manuals for this yet, the machine manuals only show a limited amount of engine stuff.

Edit: It might show what I need to know, I will look.

 

[mountainguyed67]

From a webcam 13 (twisting & turning) miles away this morning, and 3 hundred feet elevation higher. I have no cover to work under, so I am about to be shut down for a few months. Some years it warms back up (temporarily) after a snow, we will see.

 

[mountainguyed67]

Only drilled where it was transfer punched. I will install with one bolt, and transfer the other hole location. That will insure it will fit.