Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc.

   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc. #11  
Ok, I did take the tiller out and did some quick measurements.

Diameter of the rotor tube: 65mm , thickness somewhere between 8 to 10 mm.
Diameter of the flanges: either 160 mm or 170 mm. Hard to tell with a measuring tape
Distance between flanges: 180 mm
Thickness of the flanges: 8 mm. For some reason I thought it was more than that, maybe because I was checking some heavy duty tillers the other day and mixed up the specs.

And the specs of the tines are on the picture. It takes 16 left handed tines and 16 right handed tines for a total of 32.
facas-fresa-cumar-herculano-stck-direitas.jpg
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc.
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Updates on the Design . . . .

(see sketches)

Drive Shaft Section:

+ Sprocket Mount – this will likely be a 1:4 chain drive. Any ideas what pitch? 1200 RPM, 5 HP motor.
+ Bearing Mounts – looking at using 2-3/8 inch Pillow Block Bearings. Do these seem tough enough?
+ Centers Between Tine Plates – drawn as nominal 7 inches. Could be slightly wider.
+ Shear Pin – Mechanical. Good or Bad idea? Could also use “Electric Shear Pin” (Current / Amps Limit)
+ 2 Inch Pipe Drive Shaft – just using because it is cheap, available, and easy. Better ideas?

Tine Mounting Plate:

+ Hole Layout – just done to match Sample Tine Profile. Could be smaller or wider pattern. Ideas?
+ Size of Plate – just done to match existing samples – 7 inch has more substance, 6 inch may allow deeper soil penetration and less materials.

Sample Tine Profile:

+ Using the Profile of the Tine in this discussion. Will probably select a profile / manufacturer that is locally available and cheap.


Seed Bed Profile:

+ Looks about 4 inches deep. Is this enough, or do folks tend to bury this type Rototiller deeper? (into the Tine Mounting Plates)?

===========

Sorry on mixing American Inches and Metric . . . but if you have dealt with US, you already understand. ;)

THANKS!

Drive Shaft Section.jpg

Tine Mounting Plate.jpg


Sample Tine Profile.jpg


Seedbed Profile.jpg
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc. #13  
I appreciate the metric and imperial dimensions. I've seen so many machinists videos that I actually don't mind imperial that much and it's a good exercise going back and forth on converting units.

I think it looks good overall. I like the tine placement and the flange spacing.

Definitely like the shear pin as well. The Japanese tillers do it the same way. If it's not too much trouble, I would keep the shear pin just in case and still add some sort of electrical protection.

As far as chain and bearings, my tiller uses a #100H heavy duty chain, I believe it's 1 1/4" pitch, but it has to handle much more power than your setup with the 5hp electric motor.

On the bearings, mine uses a double row deep groove ball bearing on each side. ID is 45 mm and OD is 85 mm. Then again, you probably won't need something that big.

Definitely use some commonly available tines. By the way, I'm sure you noticed but the tines are clocked on the rotor so it's like a spiral.

 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc. #14  
Big differences between pipe and tube. Pipe is not as consistent for structural strength and hard for fabrication. Use tubing or DOM tubing.
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Big differences between pipe and tube. Pipe is not as consistent for structural strength and hard for fabrication. Use tubing or DOM tubing.
THANKS!

Only thing appealing on the Pipe is it is common, cheap, and already laying around. ;)

But not using that much, so buying some higher quality and higher strength is not that big of deal, either.

Any ideas on the use of square tube? -- for the Drive Shaft, I mean. Just Pondering. That would let me just use Angle as the attachments for the Tines. Like I say, just pondering. Would probably have round tube inserted at the ends for the bearings.

Any thoughts about the bearings or chain/sprocket drive?
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc. #16  
You definitely enjoy designing. Not sure your experience on fabrication skills but everyone has to start somewhere. Prototyping takes multi-skills, patience, lots of money and the ability to learn from failure more often than not.

Suggestion? Get a used 3pt pto tiller or two as a learning step to your goal. Gives you a working model(s) to learn from for your application and conditions. Your not going to build a one-off tiller cheaper. Then if it doesn’t work like you think it’s more on the electrical motor side than the mechanical tiller side.
Good luck.
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc.
  • Thread Starter
#17  
You definitely enjoy designing. Not sure your experience on fabrication skills but everyone has to start somewhere. Prototyping takes multi-skills, patience, lots of money and the ability to learn from failure more often than not.

Suggestion? Get a used 3pt pto tiller or two as a learning step to your goal. Gives you a working model(s) to learn from for your application and conditions. Your not going to build a one-off tiller cheaper. Then if it doesn’t work like you think it’s more on the electrical motor side than the mechanical tiller side.
Good luck.

Good points, all well taken. And I do follow from what you are saying that I just sort of jumped into the middle of all this without much backgrounder for the reader. Thanks on that. Sometimes I start doing that in design groups, and the folks I work with call it, “Phil Speak,” because I am babbling in terms that are very clear to me, but no one else can understand.

The building part is kind of easy for me. My first “real” job at 15 years old was as a Welder’s Helper in a Farm and Tractor Repair Shop. From there on through various Construction, Engineering, Design and Build, CNC Machine Design, etc. Now I am an EE, but still play mechanical – anyway . . . .

But as far as design on all this . . . There is a little more than just putting an Electric Motor on a PTO Shaft for this . . . Starts with the speeds . . . .

Typical 3 Phase Motor Speeds (60 Hz, US) are

3600 RPM (2 Pole) common
1800 RPM (4 Pole) common
1200 RPM (6 Pole) not so common.

Matching those up to existing equipment is not always so easy. PTO based designs are generally built around an Input of 540 RPM, and you may have noted above that the tiller shaft is in 200 to 250 RPM range. So that means to get the full range with a Variable Speed Drive, you have to add a speed reducer or gear box change up front.

So to avoid all that, the first model(s) I looked at were more like “garden rototillers.” That was where the starting tine layout came from. But those are really lightweight, take multiple passes, and did not look like they stacked or parallel very well.

Going deeper, I would have liked to have found a used existing 3-point hitch type Rototiller “organ donor” as it were – like you are saying -- but what I found was usually at or near full new prices, or kind of beat – here is a sample >>>


And so started with looking at some new ones for comparative anatomy. ( ;) ) Below is a list of various standard options . . . . A major limitation on all this is without the tractor in front – you still have to build or create the mobility and transportation part.

-----------------------------------

CountyLine Rotary Tiller, 4 ft., RT4CL
$2,099.99

Phil Note: This one is interesting in that it claims it can rotate forward or reverse. I think that also means removing and re-installing the tines? Since the overall tractor platform only goes in one direction? If you can just change the direction of travel, it reverses the “forward / reverse” rotation of the tines relative to the soil, but I do not think a typical PTO + 3 Point would allow that, unless you were to drive the Tractor in Reverse?

At 4 foot wide, this should take 10 to 20 HP?

-------------------------

CountyLine Rotary Tiller, 5 ft.
$2,099.99

Phil Note: Here you get an extra foot wider, for the same price. But no “forward/reverse” rotation option. So I guess we can assume the “value” of Forward / Reverse is about equal to 1 foot of width?

--------------------

CountyLine Rotary Tiller, 6 ft.
$2,399.99

Phil Note: This is interesting in that it appears to just add one foot width to the 5 foot – for $400 – so for base pricing that can sort of infer that and adder of 1 foot = $400.

--------------------

Heavy Duty Skid steer 72" Rotary tiller Rototiller Attachment, New
US $1,900.00

Phil Notes.
Overall a “like.” This drops down to the price of the 5 foot above – but is no longer PTO based.

Since this is designed to mount onto a skid steer, instead of a 3 point tractor hitch, it also has the most flexibility for mobility. It is a Hydraulic Motor Drive, so there is no gearing involved, but rather just throttled through the motor speed, pump, and/or valves.

On the issues for an Electric Conversion, this means instead of mechanical methods of power linking and speed control – like chains, gears, shafts, etc – we would need to buy a Hydraulic Pump. If one wanted, it could also be Mechanically Driven (Gears or Sprocket/Chain) and the dead end of the shaft is exposed on the open end.

----------------------

So that is the sort of the review of “State of the Art,” unless someone / anyone caught something I missed or mis-understood. Any adds or corrections are very welcome.

If that is good, I will do the Equipment Mobility and Travel, next . . . .
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc.
  • Thread Starter
#18  
This is some concept discussion of best ways to do both motion on the field, and also transportation between sites.

One feature of a rototiller, is that it CAN (not saying should, but just can) pull itself along through the soil. This is sometimes managed or controlled with a drag tine, or throttle speed, or could be managed with a braking cable anchored at the edge of the field.

It can also have mechanical drive wheels attached, or have lift / transport wheels like a typical towed disk harrow. Sketches below. Any insights or comments are welcome. Thanks!

Center Lift in Seedbed.jpg

====================

Frame Lift Travel.jpg

===================
Center Lift Travel.jpg

=====================
Towed in Seedbed.jpg

=======================
Towed in Travel.jpg
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc. #19  
Not all rototillers are the same. Field tiller vs garden tiller (TSC).
My 50 year old Howard rotavator has a two speed gearbox.
Good used tillers are out there.
Learn about underground mining to gain some mobile electrical operation knowledge.
 
   / Electric Rototiller Details -- Review, Comments, etc.
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Not all rototillers are the same. Field tiller vs garden tiller (TSC).
My 50 year old Howard rotavator has a two speed gearbox.
Good used tillers are out there.
Learn about underground mining to gain some mobile electrical operation knowledge.
Thanks. Good point on the Mining Operations.

Back when (the way-back machine) I was a site electrical engineer for the BIG power company in Texas, part of the additional work was helping out the mines - Good Olde Daze mining and generation methods were to put power plants as what were called "mine mouth" generation. That way the Coal did not have to be transported, and it would be turned into electricity at or near the mining site, and electricity was sent out to the cities.

We would ring the site with 25.9/14.4 KV -- "Poles and Wires" -- like normal distribution. And then tap that off as 4160V (Small local transformers) -- and run that on big cords (called dragline cable) to the various equipment. So we could run 1000(s) of HP of mining equipment at just a few hundred amps, all attached on cords.

If you looked at the John Deere cord tractor in the other thread -- we sort of chatted about that. JD is using 2400V.

For now, I am planning on keeping all this at 480V and below, because I can use cheap, available, and simple industrial electrical parts -- e.g, the motors, contactors, cords, VFDs, etc.

Here is the post/thread on cord equipment >>> Cord Management on Grid-Connected Electric Tractors and Mobile Equipment
 
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