Oil & Fuel engine oil

[Rock Crawler]

I would ask the service department before hand. I wanted to use full synthetic in my tractor as soon as I bought it and the service dept told me not to until I had 125 hours because the valves seat better with conventional oils, don't know how true it is but I took there advise..

Now that is one of the funniest things I bet I will see/hear/read all day. If your valve seats are being effected by engine oil, you've got some serious issues! It always amazes how many folks listen to mechanics about these types of things. They are not chemical engineers and only know what grandpa told them with regard to these topics.

Synthetic oil is not going to prevent engine break in, it's not going to destroy your seals and it will not make your wife leave and your dog run away.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Now that is one of the funniest things I bet I will see/hear/read all day. If your valve seats are being effected by engine oil, you've got some serious issues! It always amazes how many folks listen to mechanics about these types of things. They are not chemical engineers and only know what grandpa told them with regard to these topics.

Synthetic oil is not going to prevent engine break in, it's not going to destroy your seals and it will not make your wife leave and your dog run away.

Some engines still come with a non-detergent break in oil which does allow some carbon to accumulate in the piston rings(not valve seats) so they wear in better. Most of these are recommended to change out after 50 hours (not 125 as suggested). My LS engine oil was still clear at 50 hours when I changed it to Shell Rotella T6 and within minutes the Shell oil was black on the stick after running the engine.
I understand that some car engines like Mercedes come with full synthetic oil in them and that is OK if the manufacturer puts it there. Just follow the OEM manual for oil change and type of oil and you will be OK.

There is nothing wrong with upgrading your oil if you want to go from straight mineral to full synthetic at the first oil change. Also, nothing wrong with using 0w-40 rather than 5w or 10W. The first number is the cold weather properties while the last number is the properties of the oil at operating temps. So you could use the 0W-40 at all seasons whereas you may need to change it for winter if you put in a 10W-40 in the summer.
My tractor(and everything else I own) gets Shell Rotella T6 in 5W-40 for year round use which never gets much lower than +15F here but can get to 105F in the summer.

 

[ray66v]

I would ask the service department before hand. I wanted to use full synthetic in my tractor as soon as I bought it and the service dept told me not to until I had 125 hours because the valves seat better with conventional oils, don't know how true it is but I took there advise..

False.

Waiting to change to synthetic for break in, was a potential issue 30+ years ago, when synthetic oil technology was new. This advice is outdated, incorrect information.

Compare the specifications. At normal temperatures, there is no longer any substantial difference in lubricity, between conventional engine oil, and synthetic engine oil. If they both lubricate the same, how is it going to "seat better"? Your engine will not know the difference, and will not break in any different, with either one.

The exception to the above would be if your engine builder lives in the past, and has shipped it with a special type of break in oil, from the factory. (This is rare today).

If it's necessary for you to to run a break in oil, that is critical information. Break in oils are designed to allow some wear. What type of brake in oil, and exactly how long you need to run it, will be specified in multiple languages, in your owners manual. They don't keep all that a secret, hoping you talk to some guy in the service department at the dealer, or your neighbor, about it.

Most oil manufacturers have FAQ areas on their web site, which will verify all this.

It also won't matter if you switch it right away, or wait. Or, if you switch back and forth later. For fun, tell the guy at the dealer, you are going to do that, and watch his head explode.

 

[RalphVa]

Look into Shell Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic, it works very well for low temperature and year-round use.

5wxx is not good for those low temperatures he specified. He HAS to have 0wxx.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

I would ask the service department before hand. I wanted to use full synthetic in my tractor as soon as I bought it and the service dept told me not to until I had 125 hours because the valves seat better with conventional oils, don't know how true it is but I took there advise..

False information. I actually switched to synthetic after only 13 hours on my first diesel tractor. Traded it in with 660 hours on it. No engine problems.

Ralph

 

[LouNY]

I have heard the breakin issue since I first looked at synthetics in the late 70's, back then we would wait till the first change or 3000 miles to switch.
When I was building my performance engines and even for my pickup engines after a rebuild even a minor rering and bearing they would get a very good oil for the "breakin" run, half an hour or so and then a drain and change to synthetic never had a sealing or seating issue.
I have never gone the full change interval on a new vehicle usually 500 to 1500 miles then change it, may be overkill but it certainly has never hurt them.

 

[atsah]

I didn't know whether is was true or not because I'm not a diesel mechanic and don't pretend to be one. Considering a lot of people use conventional oil for the life of their tractors, It wasn't detrimental that I waited the 125 hours to make the switch regardless..

 

[RalphVa]

Hi just wondering if 0w40 diesel oil is good for my tractor,we have temperatures that range for -30 to -60 in the winter. I have a 2018 LS HR4140H

I worked for 31 years in the lube oil processing field. Our research facility one time did a test of a Kcar parked overnight in a booth kept at -40 C/F (same at that temp). It had a transparent overhead valve cover on it to facilitate filming on startup. EVERY engine oil except a 0wxx one smoked the overhead valve assembly upon cold startup. They clearly made the case for a need for a 0wxx oil in our arsenal. At that time, we didn't have one. Later, we merged with the company that created M1.

You need M1 full synthetic at the temperatures you mention if you're starting the engine without some preheat. However, I encourage you to at least use some preheat below the transmission/hydraulic area. Unless, it also has 0wxx oil in it, that oil will not flow very readily.

Ralph

 

[atsah]

I worked for 31 years in the lube oil processing field. Our research facility one time did a test of a Kcar parked overnight in a booth kept at -40 C/F (same at that temp). It had a transparent overhead valve cover on it to facilitate filming on startup. EVERY engine oil except a 0wxx one smoked the overhead valve assembly upon cold startup. They clearly made the case for a need for a 0wxx oil in our arsenal. At that time, we didn't have one. Later, we merged with the company that created M1.

You need M1 full synthetic at the temperatures you mention if you're starting the engine without some preheat. However, I encourage you to at least use some preheat below the transmission/hydraulic area. Unless, it also has 0wxx oil in it, that oil will not flow very readily.

Ralph

At what temp F do you recommend using the 0xxxx oil?

 

[RalphVa]

I use 0w20 in all 3 of our gasoline engined vehicles. Gives excellent protection of the upper valve train on startup irregardless of minimum temperature all year round.

Cannot get 0wxx diesel engine oil (well, I think JD has some at a very high price). If I lived where the OP lives, I'd get it. I use the 5w30 Castrol formulation for 2010ish VW TDIs from the VW dealership for both diesel engines.

Ralph